WTN 2004 Terredora di Paolo Pago dei Fusi Aglianico

I liked and did not like this wine. It certainly evolved over the evening. Despite the low nominal ABV on the label, it's a big...a very big...rustic wine. Tar, blackberry, leather, and earth. But big. Very big. Ferociously tannic, even at 11 years old! And, at one point during the evolution, there was definitely a stewed/porty note. But not the entire time, so....?????

I liked this, and I see it gets high scores from the usual suspects. But, to borrow David's tasting note, it was a little...tiring...to drink. Maybe with massive steak or a stew it would work?

There seem to be large differences in various Aglianico. Some I love and some I find quite disappointing. This one sounds like it would not please my palate.

Yes. I have tasted a few that are closer to Pinot in lightness, even in color. This was more like a very big Nebbiolo!

I liked the earthyness and tarryness of the wine. But...tiring, ultimately!

Ooo, Brian, if pinot is what you are after, I would stay away from agalianico!
The grape tends toward rusticity and bigness, and can get out of hand, but even in it's most elegant renditions will still be BIG.
For me, they fill a spot that sort of corresponds with Chateauneuf-du-Pape: a big wine with a lot of fruit that matches similar food needs. When they are very good, they have a volcanic quality to the minerality that presents structure as a tasting term. I haven't had the Pago before, but other Terredora Taurasi's I've had have tended toward the more smooth and slightly modern side.

I actually LIKE rustic wines, Mark, so not necessarily seeking Pinot only> I've had lighter versions.

I think this wine was too tannic to be characterized as smoothly modern!