LuckyPeach: Fruitless Wines

Patrick Comiskey has an interesting & well-written article in the LuckyPeach:
Comiskey/Fruitless

on how some winemakers are embracing "flaws" (brett/VA/etc) to attain more interesting and savory character in their wines. Salinia/Cain/Scholium are the three he highlights. Hmmm...wonder why no mention of TonyCotturi??

One things I don't quite understand: I mentions that AbeSchoerner/Scholium keeps "his" wnry in an unclean/untidy state to promote these "flaws" in his wines. My impression is that Abe makes his wine entirely at TenbrinkWnry in SuisunCity. Same place as MattRorick/Forlorn-Hope. Yet I've never noted any untidy areas of the wnry there when I've visited Matt. And I would think that Tenbrink would not want those bugs in their wines and, as landlord, would not tolerate it. I'll have to ask Matt in a few weeks at RibollaFest.

Patrick is, of course, one of my most favorite of wine writers. He was the one who got me reading the LATimes, whose wine coverage now is pretty much zilch. His articles are always well-written, thoughtful, and insightful. This article is just one such. It won't play well w/ the old-guard wine critics.
Patrick has completed his book on the Calif Rhone movement and it's been sent off to the UCPress editors. I'll give a head's up when it's available. I eagerly look forward to reading it.
Tom

Isn't making a winery unclean to promote Brett sort of like burning the barn down to roast a pig? There's a year-old brewery in my Seattle neighborhood called Urban Family Brewing Co. that makes beers "inspired by French and Belgian farmhouses," and they advertise Brett infected beers (among others). I was under the impression that their Brett comes by way of the yeast, yeast that I suspect is a hundred percent Brett as it far exceeds my Brett threshold. It tastes fruity on mid-palate but on back palate and finish it tastes like nothing but one hell of a lot of Brett.

Moshin Winery on Westside Road (RRV) sells one particular bottling of Pinot that they actually advertise as having that "touch" of Brett. Not TOO much but definitely there. They know it is there, and they have not chosen to address it in their winemaking. It's only that one bottling, not their other wines!