WTN: Cross to bear

Bernard Baudry 1998 Chinon Croix Boisée, $12
This has a beautiful nose mixing violets, cedar, cherry, raspberry, tobacco, herbs and a touch of smoke. The palate echoes with vibrant cherry and raspberry fruit, earth, cedar, graphite, tobacco and herbs. This is complex yet well-integrated with a fair amount of power behind it, yet it’s also elegant with balance and structure from tannins and bright acidity. Tastes like it’s in no danger of going over the hill, but delightful now. A wonderful wine that actually matched well enough with latkes. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Domaine de Chatenoy 2003 Menetou-Salon rouge, $20
Very rich aromas of cherry, earth and cinnamon, with a touch of roses. On the palate, there is deep rich cherry fruit — certainly fruitier than the average Loire P.N. — with earth and cinnamon accents. It’s very smooth, the acidity is decent, and there are some tannins present but not a lot. This is probably more of an early than a late drinker. A good job considering the vintage but not as good as this producer does in more normal years, IMHO. It goes decently, though not great, with fondue. Importer: V.O.S. Selections

François Chidaine 2001 Montlouis sur Loire Les Tuffeaux, $13.50
The nose is great with citrus, flowers and peach. On the palate, sweetness is what comes to the fore (I believe this is a demi-sec bottling), but there’s plenty of citrus, a little grapefruit, and maybe a little peach and mineral. Acidity is decent. I’m not pleased with the dominance of the sweetness, but it does get much, much better with Chinese food, especially the spicy stuff. Two days later, it’s a very different and improved wine, with more classic Chenin funk on the nose and palate and delightful mineral tastes. The sweetness is much more subdued. Four more days later, it’s truly excellent, with some funk and earth and tons of great minerality accenting citrus fruit. Outstanding match with leftover turkey, cornbread stuffing, cranberry sauce and sweet potatoes. Importer: Fleet Street.

Jean-Paul Brun 2004 Cote de Brouilly Terres Dorees, $16
This is magnificent. A strong dark earth and mineral element blends with cherry and raspberry fruit on the nose and palate to create a delightful mix. No beetiness or perfume are present. Bright fruit, dark earth and good acidity are in perfect balance. Absolutely outstanding match with turkey, cranberry sauce and cornbread stuffing. Refreshing and delicious. The next day, it’s still a “wow” wine. Incredible dark earth, dark herbs and minerals dominate yet there’s also great tart cherry and raspberry fruit here. This is unlike any other Beaujolais I’ve tried, but I love it. It’s unique yet it tastes authentic and of the earth. Importer: Louis/Dressner.

Jean-Paul Brun 2004 Cote de Brouilly Terres Dorees

The 05 version of this is very good, but one of the bigger more tannic Beaujolais I've tried. A good cellar candidate.

Thanks for the notes.

Marc

Those Loire chenins are pretty amazing. Who'd imagine that it would take four days for a wine to open up and get really good?!!

Thanks for the notes.

Mike

The 05 version of this is very good, but one of the bigger more tannic Beaujolais I've tried. A good cellar candidate.

Got to get my hands on some. I've some 2004 Brun Fleuries in the queue, too.

It doesn't surprise me that the Cote de Brouilly would be ageworthy -- even the 2004 struck me as a wine that would still be good, perhaps even better, in a few years -- but I wonder if the plastic cork (assuming they still used it on the 2005) might make that problematic.

Those Loire chenins are pretty amazing. Who'd imagine that it would take four days for a wine to open up and get really good?!!

Not me, that's for sure.

I'm just very gradually learning about Loire Chenins. As a general rule, I'm sweetness-averse and so the bottles I've tried so far have all been secs. This was the first demi-sec I've ever tried and while my first reaction was that I had been right to avoid them, by the end of this bottle I could have cared less, it was so good.

This also reinforces to me the ageability of these wines. At five-years-old, this wine needed four days to show its best, suggesting I opened it far too early. I'm going to try to do my best to leave my Baumard and Epire Savennieres and Huet Vouvrays in the cellar until they're at least a decade old.

Huet Vouvrays in the cellar until they're at least a decade old.

Better shoot for a couple of decades.

Better shoot for a couple of decades.

In that case, better hope I stay in good health for a long time!

In that case, better hope I stay in good health for a long time!

Just do what we've all been doing and name Joe Perry in your will.

Yes, the 05 Brouilly had a black plastic cork, good point. I haven't opened the 05 L Ancien yet.

If you haven't tried the Brun Fleurie yet you are in for a major treat. Another wine that to me was better on day 2.

Here's hoping we are all around long enough to enjoy the Huet .

Best,
Marc

If you haven't tried the Brun Fleurie yet you are in for a major treat. Another wine that to me was better on day 2.

I have not tried it yet but am eagerly anticipating doing so. The only question is how long I'm capable of delaying my gratification.

Here's hoping we are all around long enough to enjoy the Huet.

From your keyboard to God's ears....

Just do what we've all been doing and name Joe Perry in your will.

From what I read on this forum, Joe Perry is less than half my age (he's still a teenager, right?) and has already drank more good wine than I probably ever will. If I get the chance, I'll commit infanticide on my wines before that lucky dog gets to inherit them!

Regarding the Chatenoy: So far, I've found ALL the '03 Loire pinot noirs to be extra-fruity. It was hot, y'know?

So far, I've found ALL the '03 Loire pinot noirs to be extra-fruity. It was hot, y'know?

Indeed it was. Fortunately, while they are atypically fruity, none have yet reminded me of California PN, and I can still find them enjoyable. Somehow, I suspect it would take a hell of a lot more heat and a change in winemaking practices for that to happen.