Alsacian advice needed

1997 Domaine Weinbach Tokay Pinot Gris "Clos des Capucins." Colette Faller et ses filles (a winery run by mother and daughters).

Yesterday, I grabbed the only bottle of this from my favorite wine haunt. At the $19 I paid for it, I suspect that it was a "bargoon." Unfortunately, it represents actions on the part of the retailer to cut down on wines from Alsace due to low turnover.

I'm sure that it laid horizontally in the store's wine racks for at least five years. The cork is good and solid; no leaks. The store was air conditioned to human comfort with no windows for sunlight.

What do you think - Drink now or give it a couple more years? Would appreciate any perspective or suggestions. Thanks.

Dave Mo

What do you think - Drink now or give it a couple more years?

Drink now -- it has peaked and going down the other side for my palate.

If I were you, I wouldn't wait another minute. On the other hand, I've heard many an Alsace winemaker say that the wines should not be drunk until they are at least ten years old--which is what yours is. Their argument is that you don't really taste the terroir until the fruit flavors have gone out of the wine. Personally, I think this is insane--I love Alsace wines for their beautiful fruit flavors!

So, who ya gonna believe--a flaky American wine geek, or the guy who made the wine?

Agreed - drink up! Weinbach is a top producer, so it could really be interesting. Let us know!

1997 is considered a ripe, early maturing vintage in Alsace. That said, I've had both a Hugel Jubilee Riesling and a Weinbach Schlossberg Riesling within the past month which were still lovely and with no sign of decline.

I bought quite a stock of Weinbach 1997 after a visit to the estate in 1999. They were delicious then and the charming and dynamic Colette Faller (the mother) advised me to drink them young, because she likes her wines, including Riesling, when they are fruity and fresh and before they develop secondary and tertiary aromas, particularly the slight petrol tang.

I ignored her advice and, perhaps deservedly, have been quite disappointed when I opened them, particularly by the Rieslings (Sclossberg II I think), which are low in acid and lack freshness and minerality. I posted notes on my disappointment at the time of drinking, perhaps 3 or 4 years ago, and was assured by some of the riesling buffs that the wine would come round with age. I wonder, but should perhaps take another look.

I did have 3 or 4 bottles of Tokay Pinot Gris Cuvée Laurence, which I seem to have finished some years ago. It was the one exception to my disappointment which accounts for the bottles having been drunk. I remember it as rich and complex but sweetish and therefore difficult to marry with food other than equally rich.

I'm not sure whether your bottle is the same cuvéée but I would expect any Pinot Gris except VT or SGN to be over the top by now but you mayè have a pleasant surprise.

Greetings All:

How very gratifying to be presented with a set of such thoughtful responses! In accordance with the apparent consensus, I'll pull the cork in the near future and post the results herein! Thanks very much to each of you!

Dave Mo