It could be possible that some of you live a similar event if Rémi travels for the same reason. What I have lived is completely unique.
By Caves Legrand in Paris, Rémi Krug has conducted one of his last tastings, as he will retire after 42 years spent to the service of the champagne which has his name. He is proud that some champagnes have a taste which corresponds to what he wanted, and is happy that the taste of the coming years will be influenced by his decisions, as he had a long term vision.
It is the first time that he organises a parallel tasting of 8 years of Krug Vintage and 8 years of Krug Clos du Mesnil for which the two exist. The Krug Vintage is a blend of several champagne of the same year, when the Krug Clos du Mesnil is the jewel of a small piece of land with tall walls, whose size is equivalent to the size of Romanée Conti (perhaps a little smaller).
Rémi says that his strategy is not to make Krug Clos du Mesnil better than Krug Vintage, but to do the best for each definition of champagne. He is enthusiast, and gives comments as if it were the first time that he drinks one of his wines.
I have taken notes, as I usually do when there is a vertical tasting. I never do it by dinners as I exercise my memory when there are only a few wines. I prefer to give my notes as they were, with redundancies, as it gives an atmosphere.
The Krug Vintage 1995 has already a golden colour. The nose is very welcoming, caramel. In mouth it is very smoky, bacon. Nice length, nice maturity (already !). I feel iode and green citrus.
The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1995 is more pink. The nose is made of wine and salt. In mouth, it is not yet very structured, contrarily to the Krug Vintage. I feel pink fruits, flowers, salt and citrus fruits. It is a little drier but promises more. It will explode with perfection in a few years. The final is made of citrus fruits and honey. The Krug Vintage is more solid, square. The Krug Clos du Mesnil is more romantic.
The Krug Vintage 1990 is very golden with an intense nose. What a power! It is also very square and solid.
The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1990 is more pale. The nose disturbs me. And in mouth it seems inadequate. I talk about that to Rémi who smells my glass and does not find any mistake. Having drunk this wine alternatively after other Krug Clos du Mesnil of different years, I confirm a small defect.
The Krug Vintage 1989 has a nice colour. The nose is the exact definition of what a smell should be. In mouth, it is more quiet, more cosy.
The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1989 has a nice deep golden colour. The nose is discrete. The mouth is of candied fruit. This champagne is sunny. This is champagne! The final is made of mint, honey, loukoum. And it has this coolness which is a signature of Krug.
The Krug Vintage 1988 has an enormous smell. What strikes me in this champagne that I have drunk dozens times is its iodic and salty aspect.
The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1988 has a mineral nose like a Meursault. It is completely exceptional. It is wild. And it has a Burgundy wildness that I love so much. I see red berries, in this mad champagne. It is a mad boy singing with an infinite charm. This is the contrary of the Krug Vintage 88 which is smart, elegant and polite.
The Krug Vintage 1985 is less golden. But it is a spicy bread, a recently baked bread. The bubble is strong, the taste is toasted, with this permanent coolness.
The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1985 starts slowly. It is of a rare subtlety. Then in mouth, it runs as a cascade. I have the image of a small boat running in a canyon on round stones. It is quite unbelievable, and the coolness cannot be imagined.
The Krug Vintage 1985 is virile, solid. The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1985 is subtle, iodic, fluent.
The Krug Vintage 1982 is golden. Very well in the pure definition of Krug I find it perfect, but, in a way, too perfect. The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1982 has evolved. And I like this evolution. When the Krug Vintage 82 is a little too doctrinal, the Krug Clos du Mesnil is honey, caramel, but also oyster when I eat different toasts and canapés provided for the tasting.
The Krug Vintage 1981 is the first to have a mineral nose. It is so great. It is smoked. The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1981 has a magic, oriental nose. The bubble is powerful. This champagne has evolved, but this time a little too much. It is now a little over the hill. The Krug Vintage 1981 is fabulous and pleases me with its fat aspect.
The Krug Vintage 1979 has a phenomenal nose, and is phenomenal in taste. It is “grandiose”. The nose evokes petrol; the mouth is smoked and burnt caramel. It has an enormous personality. I am mad about it. It is gorgeous.
The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1979 has a giant nose. In mouth, it is red pink cherries. It is absolutely sanctified. I see candied fruits, strawberry, spice, pepper. It is the greatest Krug Clos du Mesnil 1979 that I have ever drunk. And Rémi says that it is probably the last time that Krug lets it be drunk as all the remaining stock will be blocked for the future.
The Krug Vintage 79 is virile, strong. The other Krug Vintage were very structured, scholar, perfect. This one is more wild, exciting, grandiose. The Krug Clos du Mesnil 1979 is the greatest possible Krug Clos du Mesnil.
Rémi pours now blind a magnum. But we know immediately that it is a Krug Grande Cuvée. Rémi says that it is the Krug that he likes because Krug is that. And he says something that I adore : “if you take the rests of all your 16 wines and blend them together, you will make by yourself a Grande Cuvée”.
It is in a way not so good to have put the Krug Vintage together with the Krug Clos du Mesnil, as the Krug Vintage are wines for gastronomy, completely satisfying. To put it together with the Krug Clos du Mesnil shows limits that should not be noticed. But the exercise had its interest as we have drunk fantastic wines. And if you notice the emphatic words that I have used, it shows that I have loved.
Christophe Navarre the president of Moët Hennessy group (the two letters MH of LVMH) who was there with his wife at the same table with me, said a word to thank Rémi for his indisputable contribution to the perfection of Krug.
To listen to such a passionate man is an exciting pleasure, nearly as great as to drink these infinite champagnes.