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Dale Williams

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WTN: Gamay, Riesling, Catarratto, Sangiovese

by Dale Williams » Tue Jan 09, 2018 10:28 am

I’m mostly avoiding wine on weeknights (trying not to put back on weight), but after the “bomb cyclone” hit and I spent day shoveling, thought I deserved some Chianti with Betsy’s ragu bolognese. The 2010 Rocca di Castagnoli “Poggio a’Frati” Chianti Classico is a bigger framed Chianti, red cherry and leather, good acids, tannins palpable but not hard. B+
On a frigid Friday, Betsy made cod in a chipotle sauce with greens and turnips

2016 Defino Catarratto
I had ordered a couple with memory of liking a previous vintage. But this is round and flat, peach and melon, lacking backbone and length. Looking back it was the Defino Frappato that I enjoyed. Good thing was when I picked up mixed case from CSW they made a (rare) mistake, and gave me 2 of a (more expensive) Soave and only 1 of the Catarratto. When I pointed out they let the price difference slide. Now especially happy re mistake. C+

2014 Karthauserhof Ruwer trocken
Citrus and ginger, sprightly acids, nice length for a $15 Riesling. B/B+

Saturday was sous vide miso salmon, Brussels sprouts, arugula salad, and a leftover corn souffle. 2013 Lapierrer Morgon isn’t the most complex Morgon you’ll run across, but it’s very easy drinking in a fresh red berry way. There is a bit of tannin, but so open I think I’ll just drink my other 750s now. B+

Sunday was sous vide chicken with tarragon, sous vide glazed carrots (new machine, enjoying playing), collards with garlic, and whole wheat couscous. The 2015 Eva Fricke Lorcher Schlossberg (Rheingau) isn’t totally dry, more feinherb/halbtrocken, yellow fruits and a gingery spice, big. B+/B
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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Rahsaan

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Re: WTN: Gamay, Riesling, Catarratto, Sangiovese

by Rahsaan » Tue Jan 09, 2018 10:32 am

Dale Williams wrote:2013 Lapierre Morgon isn’t the most complex Morgon you’ll run across, but it’s very easy drinking in a fresh red berry way. There is a bit of tannin, but so open I think I’ll just drink my other 750s now. B+


I don't think anyone ever accused Lapierre of being the most complex anything in any vintage! But I had similar thoughts about 2013 being open and cued up a few bottles of Descombes VV Morgon and Foillard CdP for the upcoming weeks. So glad to hear your note!
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Gamay, Riesling, Catarratto, Sangiovese

by Dale Williams » Tue Jan 09, 2018 10:47 am

I dunno, I think this (regular Morgon) usually goes for slurpability but the cuvee Marcel Lapierre (roman numeral one) can be pretty damn complex. Just hard to find.
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Re: WTN: Gamay, Riesling, Catarratto, Sangiovese

by Rahsaan » Tue Jan 09, 2018 11:02 am

Dale Williams wrote: the cuvee Marcel Lapierre (roman numeral one) can be pretty damn complex.


Fair enough. I was thinking of the regular.

And I know everyone has his/her own taste but it has always amazed me how Lapierre became so popular and the face of natural Morgon. Marketing is the cynical answer I suppose.
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Gamay, Riesling, Catarratto, Sangiovese

by Dale Williams » Tue Jan 09, 2018 11:35 am

I think depending on how you define you can claim the popularity of everything is "marketing", you don't even need cynicism. I don't personally prefer Lapierre, probably buy more Foillard, but like the wines. As to why Lapierre is the "face", I'd say main reason is I believe estate is easily the largest of the Gang of Four, and so easiest to obtain. Plus I think Marcel was pretty comfortable being spokesman for the group. And lastly Kermit importing the N and making it a cult item.,
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Re: WTN: Gamay, Riesling, Catarratto, Sangiovese

by Rahsaan » Tue Jan 09, 2018 11:46 am

Dale Williams wrote:As to why Lapierre is the "face", I'd say main reason is I believe estate is easily the largest of the Gang of Four, and so easiest to obtain...


Indeed. So many bottles. Also in France, for a while in the 2000s it seemed like Lapierre was everywhere, in endless supply. Until more hipster producers started popping up.

I too prefer Foillard, which has also seen a boom in popularity (more well-deserved in my view). But according to KLWM website, Foillard produces 2500 cases a year while Lapierre produces 8000 cases a year. Which may explain why people have been selling the Foillard wines on allocation in recent years!

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