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Dale Williams

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WTN: '62 St E, '99 CCR, + bubbles, CFE, Provence, more

by Dale Williams » Tue May 22, 2018 5:12 pm

Betsy was in city for a dinner, I cooked the first pasta on new range. Meatballs, spaghetti, kale salad, green beans. Wine was the 1999 Melini “La Selvanella” Chianti Classico Riserva. Didn’t really mean to hold this long, it was structured on release and I meant to put away for 5, not 15. Just got buried in backup cellar. But while color was a bit worrisome (brown/brick rims), it was actually still holding fruit. Resolved tannin, moderate acids for Chianti, black plum with leather. Falls off a bit on end, probably would have been better 2010, but enjoyable. B

Friday I opened the 2009 Trimbach “Cuvee Frederic Emile” Riesling. Riper version of CFE, white peaches and nectarine, floral. Some light incipient petrol notes. Has enough acidity to balance, quite tasty if not a stellar supermineral CFE. B+

Betsy picked up her mother at Newark, we went to the new Juniper in Hastings. I loved the old
Juniper, but had heard unappealing things about new one. But recently chef went “back to his roots” with a new Asian bistro menu. We arrived at 7:30, ordered immediately, drinks came quickly.
2017 Gassier rose (Cotes de Provence)
Modest acids, ripe fruit with almost a rot note. Not very appealing. C+

NV Sella Bronca Prosecco
Delicious, good value, ripe Bosc pear with a touch of lemon, just a hint of RS. B/B+


It took 20-30 minutes for our appetizers to arrive (good dumplings, excellent crispy Brussels sprouts with hoisin sauce, scallions, and cilantro- we’ll do that at home), but I’m easy re service. But even I got irritated when after our apps were cleared we went 30 minutes without any visit from waiter (I flagged bus boy for water). The worst part was watching a table that arrived and ordered well after us finishing their mains - including the same chicken and beef dishes we ordered. Worst service ever. The fried rice with brisket and bone marrow was good, as was the NY strip beef and broccoli. Fried chicken was okay - ban chan was best part- ok potato salad, very tasty napa kimchee, radish kimchee, spinach. Manager ended up comping our apps, but not planning on returning. Over an hour for mains in a bistro setting is crazy.

Next night was a friend’s birthday party. Said friend happens to be our contractor. Lenore asked guests to bring “a musical gift” for Dave. I’m not musical, but thought a song by the Fixx, Men at Work, or the Carpenters was way to go. Settled on latter, and rewrote “we’ve only just begun” as “our kitchen’s almost done” Betsy played piano and sang while her mom played cello. Much fun

Started with cukes with boursin, and a cheese board. Then Scallops with sauteed scallions. Main was salmon, but their oven died. Betsy jumped in and pan seared salmon for 14 people.
Salad, asparagus, and wine

2016 Houchart (Cotes de Provence)
I’ve had the rose, my first try of the white. Lemon, ginger, and tart/barely ripe pit fruits (in a good way). Floral. Fun and easy.B+/B

2017 Boniface “Rocailles” Apremont
Light and short. Didn’t expect big wine (I’ve had Boniface before), but this is almost isn’t there. C+

(vintage?) Salvard Cheverny

Tart, raspberry, pine. B-

1962 Yon Figeac (St Emilion)
I had double decanted this (Dave’s birthyear). Much better fruit than a recent ‘62 Pavie, this has red and black plums, some light cigarbox. Totally mature, but not fading, but rather simple for a 50+ year old. Fun to serve, though. B/B-

Sunday while Betsy played concert in CT I grilled some asparagus and ramps, rolled them in lonza for appetizers, and took over to her sister’s home. She and her mom joined after her concert. Cal made caprese, pesto bruschetta, ravioli w/ pears (sounded weird to me, Cal says common in Tuscany, actually nice combo), green salad. I carried the wines

NV Andre Beaufort Grand Cru Rose Champagne
Fairly high dosage, but that goes well with the lonza (and ramps). Sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, floral, lots of citrus zest. Firm and elegant mousse with a fine bead. B+

2015 Giacosa Arneis(Roero)
Ripe, touch soft, but goes well with the pears and ravioli. B

No great wines, but fun times (except for service at restaurant)

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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David M. Bueker

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Riesling Guru

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Connecticut

Re: WTN: '62 St E, '99 CCR, + bubbles, CFE, Provence, more

by David M. Bueker » Tue May 22, 2018 6:49 pm

I have explored a few 2009 Trimbachs (CFE, Gaisberg, Riesling Reserve), and have earmarked them for mid-term drinkers. Other recent vintages (e.g. 2008!) seem better for extended aging.
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