WTN: 2011 Descombes Morgon, VV and Vermont

Seems like the tumbleweeds are blowing through these parts!

But, am still drinking wine. And have been generally focused on Burgundy but ran across these two wines in Paris and had to purchase. The 2011 Descombes Morgon VV is long since gone in my US collection, and I don't think I've ever seen the 2011 Descombes Morgon Vermont in the US (although I believe it has made it over to those shores).

At first the VV was the winner. All the pretty fragrant berry aromas and that gorgeous Descombes texture that combines crunchy crushed rocky stones and a wonderfully dark and silky ripe sexy 2011 package. Pure Morgon silk!

In comparison, the Vermont started off brighter, tighter, and more awkward. Clearly lots of material, but not ready to gush like the VV. And silly me, I'll admit I even began to doubt the style and wonder if I needed anything more than the VV.

Well, patience is rewarded. After maybe 4-5 hours the VV was looking thin and hollow in comparison, and the Vermont began hitting its stride. Deeper suaver firmer seductive velvet (in comparison to the lacier silk of the VV). Yet despite the weightier material and greater depth, the Vermont flavor profile is always brighter than the VV. At least tonight.

Both are really great wines, and I enjoyed every sip since I probably won't be drinking them at home. Especially as I hear the Vermont is no longer being made?

I've never actually heard of the Vermont. What's the story?

I like Descombes, used to buy the regular Morgon, lately the Brouilly seems to be all I've gotten. Not a "choice", just happenstance of what I've been offered.

If I understand correctly Vermont was a one-time cuvee for the great 2011 vintage, from a selection of very old vines (that have since been torn out). Not sure about vinification differences, but it's somewhat the equivalent of the other 'luxury Beaujolais' cuvees, although not as intense (and not as expensive).

So Descombes is being allocated now? I know that was happening to Foillard. All the better if these winemakers are getting more money out of the buzz, and they deserve respect/recognition. But it still seems crazy.

FWIW, Georges Descombes happened to be pouring wine in Paris today, so I stopped by and he mentioned that even if the vines for the Vermont have been pulled up, he hopes to make another special extra-old-vine cuvee in the future. Because there are plenty of very old vines in the VV. Will be happy to see that!