WTN: Lieblicher Wein and I try try again

These past few weeks I've been revisiting one of my previous Big Loves - the German off-dry rieslings - which I have neglected in recent years.

This weekend began with 2011 Grunhaus Abtsberg Spätlese which was a lovely way to wind down the week while eating dinner outdoors. The vintage definitely shows juicy sweetness, but the sour verdant Grunhaus snap is also there. Lovely with dinner but maybe not the vintage (at least right now) to win my heart and stuff my cellar.

Similar theme with side-by-side bottles of 2011 and 2012 JJ Prüm Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spätlese. At first the 2011 was much easier to drink with its juicy but lacy elegant white flowers. Very very delicious. In comparison, the 2012 was more structured and not as easy to penetrate. However, with a bit of air, the 2011 was always lacy and elegant pleasure but began to feel a bit soft and facile. In comparison, the dazzling mineral acid structure of the 2012 was much brighter and deeper and all around more compelling to my palate. Both were tasty, but 2012 would be the one for me.

However, despite the obvious tastiness of the wines, the flavors and textures were not hitting my inner sentiments the way they used to. I found myself wishing I had some dry riesling.

2016 von Othegraven Kanzemer Altenberg Kabinett was a step in the right direction with pale Saar briskness. Of course plenty of juicy slushy sugar, but very fine, very elegant, this is hitting my buttons. Now if only I could get a bit more grip.

Well then why not open the much-anticipated 2014 van Volxem Scharzhofberger Pergentsknopp. Ahh.... Corked!!!!

[David M. Bueker]

2012 is a great vintage. Give the baby fat a few more years to burn off, and there will be all the zip and complexity one could ask for in any Riesling.

I decided to end my time in Berlin with a bit less sugar.

The 2017 Weiser-Künstler Wolfer Sonnenlay Kabinett trocken was all the pale fresh tart citrus minerals I could want. Despite that brisk bright and restrained flavor profile, there seemed to be a layered and tactile body hiding underneath. So while this was great aperitif/while-cooking-the-dinner wine now, I wonder if it may move up a register of interest with time.

2017 Grunhaus Alte Reben Feinherb was more approachable because of the extra sugar oomph, but of course always the chiseled verdant Grunhaus elements that lighten the tongue. It also hinted at a very firm (and dark black currant in flavor profile) core underneath, making you think there is more to come from what it a simple and attractive wine right now.

Drinking 2015 Schloss Neuweier Mauerberg was a treat because I started to explore the GGs from here a few years ago, but have not been able to keep up to date. This was not the GG and probably showed all the better for it right now. As I remember, the lovely combination of long linear sinews of wine, that show great power depth and force, but all muscle and no fat. So crisp and firm. Also a nice range of zesty savory (blanched nuts?) and clear citrus (lemon?) flavors. My kind of wine.

Also, why not drink the 2013 Enderle & Moll Muschelkalk Spätburgunder. It is gorgeous. After just a little bit of air the juicy fresh and so-drinkable-yet-also-detailed fruit gushes from the bottle. Absolutely perfect with cod in a tomato pesto sauce, chanterelles on the side, schupfnudlen, and a tomato salad dressed with pumpkin seed oil. (You might be suspicious because of the tomato elements, but you would be wrong!) Over the evening it gets more and more fragrant, further and further weakening my knees. I don’t think I would mistake it for Burgundy or Beaujolais, but at times it does make me think of the delicate crystal feathers of Burgundy or the fun sensuality of Beaujolais. Either way, that is some damned drinkable wine.

Back here after some time in the Rockies, nice to read all the positive ideas one expects from Rahsaan

[David M. Bueker]

I wish I could get my hands on the Grunhaus Feinherb.

I wish I could get my hands on the Grunhaus Feinherb.

Really? Is it not exported to the US? Apparently this AR Feinherb is mostly from Herrenberg (according to MFW), and it's a pretty 'basic' wine. But I know one should never underestimate Grunhaus and even the 'basic' wines (e.g. QbA) can be very very useful.