It's been a slow fall for me wine wise, but there have been some good ones.
Pierre Gimonnet, Special Club, Champagne 2010
Light yellow. Excellent nose of baked apples, with toasty depth. On the palate, baked apple with lemon curd, nice toasted notes, and a touch of mineral. Medium bodied with excellent presence and length, vigorous bubbles, very bright acidity, and good depth. On the elegant side of the stylistic spectrum of Champagne. Mature bread dough notes are waiting in the wings, but this is very youthful still, and will benefit from a few more years, over which it should become rounder and deeper; its best days are ahead, I think. Drink now or in the 5 - 10 years. 4 Stars [8/19/18]
Windwalker, Grand Chardonnay, El Dorado County 2014
Rich medium-light yellow with a touch of green. Extraordinary nose, loads of fine oak and buttered popcorn, with ripe stone fruits, and potent white pepper (that you can feel in your nose); remarkable freshness. On the palate, dominant buttered popcorn notes are supported by very ripe pear and candied apricot, and a slicing vein of tangerine acidity, all with those potent white pepper notes and lots of mineral; the butter notes are impressively clean and pure. Huge body, viscous and opulent in texture, somewhat over the top, and yet the acid tone is impressive for a wine of this style, and it has excellent purity as well. A paradoxical wine, as if you had taken the best of the buttery, opulent California style and put into into the frame of a 1er Cru white Burgundy; I would not have imagined that such a wine was possible. And I’m not even sure if it’s technically completely dry. But it is extremely impressive nonetheless. 5 years ahead, maybe 10? 15% abv; aged sur lie, according to the winery website. 4 Stars [8/31/18]
Georges Vigouroux, Voluptueux, Cotes de Gascogne 2016
85% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Colombard. Very good color, light golden yellow with just a hint of green, and lustrous reflections. Subtle but rich nose of grapefruit and stone fruits. On the palate, prominent sweet-tart grapefruit with a touch of lime, underlaid by ripe pear and fleshy peach, all with honey. Medium-full bodied, sweet-tart with very prominent fresh-squeezed citrus acidity, but with a rich and fleshy texture. Will pair well with salads, cheeses, poultry, and seafood, and really needs food to tame its big acid. The contrast between the citrus acidity and the rich texture is really striking. An uncompromising and remarkable style. I like it, but it won’t please everyone. Their loss! Drink now. 2.5 Stars [9/2/18]
Domaine Les Fines Graves, Beaujolais-Villages 2016
Nice color, medium-dark ruby, clear at the edge. Exceptional nose of dark fruits, high-toned and juicy, with olives and peppercorns, violets, and lots of smokey stone and gravel; fragrant, with good density, and with Burgundian gaminess. On the palate, tart blackberry, black currant, a touch of blueberry, and plum, with violets, peppercorns, with generous, spicy, stoney tannin. On the light side of full bodied, with exceptional presence, a juicy/tart, slightly fleshy texture, and excellent length on the finish; has a Burgundian frame, but harkens to the Rhone as well. A very serious and characterful Beaujolais-Villages, the equal or better of some Cru Beaujolais I’ve had. Drink over the next five years, perhaps longer given its serious structure. A very impressive effort, I am very enthusiastic about this one! 3.5 Stars [9/7/18]
Brunellesco, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2016
Splendid dark ruby color. Excellent, heady nose of dried blackberry, cherry cola, black currant, plum, roses, herbaceous tobacco leaf, smoke, earthy mineral, and pepper, all with a savory tone. Similar notes on the palate, blackberry, cherry cola and plum, herbaceous notes, white pepper, mineral, and generous, drying tannin. On the light side of full bodied, with a juicy (almost sweet-tart), very savory, and slightly fleshy texture; there is some very good substance and depth to this, and its structure surprisingly serious. All the components harmonize very nicely with air. With that high acid this is meant for food, and I can’t imagine many Italian pasta or meat dishes that this would go very well with. A very satisfying, hearty red. Drink now or in the next 3 - 5 years. 2.5 Stars [9/16/18]
Aurelien Verdet, Morey-Saint-Denis 2014
A lovely gem-like shade of medium-light ruby. Wonderful Nuits nose with loads of cloves, smoked meat, fragrant black tea, all on top of meaty black cherry with a sweet note of blueberry; fragrant, with very nice accentuation and exceptional freshness; beautiful nose, classy and elegant. On the palate, a core of meaty, fleshy black cherry and blue berry, with very prominent citrus acidity and tea, all with potent spice and pepper notes, and loads of very fine tannin. Full bodied, with an impressive dark, dense meatiness at its core, but with surprisingly prominent and fresh acid tone; compared to the nose, not at all expressive on the palate. With lots of air, the acid settles down a bit, and some very nice gamey notes emerge on the nose. I would give this another 3 - 5 years, and it should age nicely for at least another 5 years after that. The quality and structure for aging are certainly there. 4 Star potential, 3.5 for drinking now. [10/7/18]
Les Freres Couillaud, Chateau de la Ragotiere, Selection Vieilles Vignes, Muscadet Serve et Maine Sur Lie 2015
Very nice medium golden color. Very good nose but low key nose of citrus and fresh orchard fruit, with a hint of bread dough and abundant mineral, all with a sense of richness and depth. On the palate, a touch of pear up front, then white peach, followed by honeydew, all with tart lemon curd notes, honey, a touch of rich, creamy yeast notes, and slightly salty mineral. Medium bodied, rich and just a bit fat and creamy in texture, but all with tart acid tone; very good, lingering finish. Needs time in the glass to integrate its acidity and become more rounded; has the structure for 5 - 10 more years, especially under screw cap, and I would say needs a few years to round out. 3 Stars [10/14/18]
Bodegas La Cartuja, Priorat 2015
Dark ruby. Rich, heady, deep nose of dark fruit, cured tobacco, graphite, and smokey stone, all with some aromatic red fruit notes; burly and yet with rustic elegance and even beauty; wonderful nose. On the palate, dense, rich blackberry, cassis, raspberries, fine smokey mineral, graphite, and stone/slate, all with notes of cured tobacco, loads of peppery spice and lots of spicy tannin. Big bodied and potent, with excellent length, and with elegant balance between the muscular components, all supported by generous acidity. Exceptional quality. With its polished fruit, tobacco, and graphite, this reminds me a lot of Pauillac (Bordeaux) but more rustic, and with much higher acid tone. Has the depth and structure for at least 5 more years, and will benefit from additional age. 70% Garnacha (Grenache), 30% Mazuelo (Carignan). 3.5 Stars [10/20/18]
Azienda Agricola Stival Mario, San Rocco, Pinot Grigio, Veneto 2016
Light platinum yellow. Excellent nose of fresh orchard fruit with a touch of citrus, and impressive mineral/stone depth. On the palate, crisp pear and sweet-tart lemon upfront, followed by a touch of fleshy peach, then slightly bitter lemon rind, all laden with fine mineral that, with the lemon rind, lingers on medium-long finish. Full bodied, with a slightly honeyed texture balanced by lively acidity. Impressive style, very much like Alsace. Quite a striking Italian Pinot Grigio, I like it very much. Drink now. 2.5 Stars [11/1/18]
Meyer-Fonne, Gentil, Alsace 2016
Pale golden yellow. Nose is somewhat understated but excellent, with spice and petrol aromatics, ripe fruit and very good mineral depth. On the nose and palate, a personality of pear, nectarine, and mandarin orange, with a hint of spice, petrol, and savory mineral. Medium bodied, with rich fruit, slightly steely acidity, and a slightly savory texture. Off-dry. Much more expressive and harmonious on day 2. A very nice, food friendly wine, ideal for Asian cuisine, fish, and salads. I expect this will benefit from additional age in the short term. Drink now or in the next few years. 50% Riesling, 25% Muscat, 20% Pinot Blanc, 5% Sylvaner and Pinot Gris. 2.5 Stars [11/4/18]
Castelli del Grevepesa, Clemente VII, Riserva, Chianti Classico 2013
Deep ruby with a touch of purple. On the nose, rich earth, cured tobacco / cigar box, dried herbs, wood, and an impression of violets, all on top of ripe, macerated dark berries; very good nose, nice earthy depth. Similar notes on the palate, with black cherry, cherry cola, blackberry, and a bit of tart raspberry providing contrast, all with earthy depth and herbal / tobacco notes. Medium-full bodied, with a very nice succulent texture, savory spice, and fine tannin and mineral. Rather fruit-forward and low acid for Chianti, but the density and quality are good. Drink now. 2 Stars [11/12/18]
Markham, Petit Verdot, Napa Valley 2014
Medium-dark ruby. Exceptional nose, lots of savory herbs, peppery spice, all with lots of nice Napa earth and cured tobacco, dark berry compote, mineral; lovely depth. On the palate, dense, savory, dark blackberry and raspberry, plum, cassis, tobacco/herbs, and loads of mineral-laden earth. Medium-full bodied, with a lovely, savory, spicy texture, and an excellent finish of spicy tannin and linger, rich fruit. Exceptional wine, excellent quality and character; Markham delivers yet again! Drink now. 3.5 Stars [11/22/18]
Chateau Fort Viaud, Bordeaux 2017
Fresh, fragrant personality of grass, gooseberry, and white peach, all with loads of mineral. Medium-full bodied, sweet-tart and mineral-driven in texture, with good density. Remarkable white Bordeaux. Drink now or in the next 3 - 5 years. 3 Stars [11/22/18]
St. August, Riesling, “Sweet Wine for Dessert,” Qualitatswein, Pfalz 2017
Baked apple, peach, mineral, spice, and petrol. Medium-light body, and sweet-tart texture, with spatlese-level sweetness. Noteworthy value for $6 per 500ml from Aldi. Drink now or in the next few years. 2 Stars [11/22/18]
Niepoort, Vintage Port, Porto 2007
Medium-dark garnet, showing just a hint of browning. Excellent nose, rich and heady, with dark fruit compote (blackberry, cassis, raspberry), fig, tobacco leaf, chocolate, and coffee, all with fine notes of oak, and earthy mineral. Identical notes on the palate. Full bodied, rich, and very sweet, with good intensity, and a succulent, sweet, spicy texture. Very smooth, with polished fruit, very rich in style. Exceptional quality. Drink now or in the next 20 - 30 years. 4 Stars [11/23/18]
Domaine de Saje, Cotes-du-Rhone 2016
Deep plum / ruby color. Very nice, heady nose of rich, dark fruit, with aromatic earth and herbs. On the nose and palate, a personality of black cherry, black berry, black currant, plum, olive, and fig, with tobacco / cigar box, herbs de provence / garrigue, cocoa powder, and rich earth. On the light side of full bodied, rich and dense but juicy in texture, with excellent acid balance. Supposedly a declassified Chateauneuf du Pape, and does indeed show excellent depth, nuance, and polish, along with some of the hallmarks of that exalted terroir. Shows very jammy and fruit forward when first open, has better character and elegance on day 2. I like this very much! Drink now or over the next 3 - 5 years. For the quality and character, a very good deal for under $20. 3.5 Stars. [11/26/18]
Weingut P. Licht Bergweiler Erben, Riesling Spatlese, Brauneberger Mandelgraben, Mosel 2001
Excellent, youthful color, medium golden yellow with a hint of green. Awesome nose, such depth and complexity, ripe pear / apple and fresh apricot, with big notes of grapefruit / lemon, all richly honeyed, with a touch of mature fruitcake-like notes, candied fruit, big notes of petrol, all underlaid by abundant notes of slate / mineral, and with a just a touch of savory herbal notes; I’ve never experienced a nose like this before, I am rather blown away. On the palate, extraordinary honeyed apple, the apple having a remarkable sweetness, fleshiness, and acidity (like a good honey crisp), fresh fleshy apricot / plum, a strong note of raspberry, lots of lovely, sweet-tart, fresh citrus (lime, grapefruit, lemon), a hint of lemongrass, and toward the finish, candied / fruitcake notes, all underlaid by deep notes of slate, with a very long finish of citrus, sweet-tart fruit, mineral, petrol, and spice. Full bodied, with a savory, fleshy, sweet-tart, honeyed texture. Captivating. Drinking incredibly young still, I might have guessed blind that it was only 5 - 10 years old. 20 years ahead and I wouldn’t be shocked to find it alive beyond that. Fabulous. Probably the best German Riesling I have ever had. 5 Stars [11/28/18]
Lagarada, Douro 2015
Pure, medium-dark ruby, clear at the rim. Excellent nose, smokey, earthy, and deep, with lush, dark fruit. On the nose and palate, a personality of blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, and plum, with lots of smoke and earthy mineral, cured tobacco, a touch of bell pepper, and a finish of fine tannin, mineral, and white pepper. Medium-full bodied, juicy and lush and mineral-driven in texture, with good acidity and just a touch of tartness providing support. A delightful wine with excellent quality and density. Probably mostly Tinta Roriz (aka Tempranillo). Very youthful with good structure, drink over the next 3 to 5 years. 2.5 Stars [12/4/18]
And here are a couple of exceptional non-wine notes:
Boulevard, Smokestack Series, Sixth Glass, Quadruple NV
Cloudy amber / nut brown. On the nose, toasted malt and honey / barley sugar. Same notes on the palate, underlaid and enhanced by notes of orange, stone fruit, and raspberry. Just a touch of hops beneath all of the malt. Medium bodied, rich and sweet in texture, but supported by abundant toasty malt. Rich, but with zesty balance. Exceptional. 10.5% alcohol, 22 IBUs. 3.5 Stars [11/22/18]
Schramm’s Meade, Blackberry NV
Dark garnet, clear at the rim. Heady nose of macerated, slightly jammy blackberry, and a nicely integrated note of rich honey. On the palate, lots of tart blackberry, supported and rounded by a rich note of pure honey. Full bodied, succulent and sweet-tart in texture. Extraordinary. 4 Stars