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Who should I visit in the Loire?

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Ted Richards

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Who should I visit in the Loire?

by Ted Richards » Mon Jan 21, 2019 11:24 pm

We're planning a visit to the Loire Valley to see castles and taste wine. Which producers are worth visiting, either for the tour, or for the quality of the wines? I mostly know Vouvray and some of the sweet wines. I'm thinking Huët, Moulin Touchais, Ch. Pièrre-Bise, Ch. Soucherie, Ch. Bellerive?, Champalou?

I don't know Muscadet, Sancerre or the reds much at all.

Any help would be appreciated.
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John S

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Re: Who should I visit in the Loire?

by John S » Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:35 am

Vouvray is definitely a good place to visit, with a number of good producers, as you identified (but don't know if you can visit Moulin Touchais; Foreau is just up the road from Huet). The nearby Montlouis-sur-Loire also has the Chidaine winery. I thought Chinon was another good base for a day or three, with several good producers there too (e.g., Baudry, Joguet and Couly-Dutheil). I'm a sucker for Savennieres, so I enjoyed my visit there too (e.g., Baumard, Closel, Joly and d'Epire). Finally, I had a great visit in the Saumur-Champigny region at de Hureau, and there are several other good producers (e.g., Filliatreau).

The Château de Chenonceau is beautiful but can be very busy!

I never made it to the Muscadet region, but will hopefully get there soon. Sancerre is a pretty little hilltop town, as is nearby Chavigny, and there are lots of good wineries in that area too (e.g., Henri Bourgeois, François Cotat, Lucien Crochet, Joseph Mellot).

Have fun, it was a great region to visit!
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Tim York

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Re: Who should I visit in the Loire?

by Tim York » Tue Jan 22, 2019 7:55 am

My knowledge of the Loire region is concentrated in Anjou and Touraine which are mainly Chenin country for whites and Cabernet franc country for reds though good Gamay is grown in both and decent Sauvignon blanc in Touraine as well as rarer Côt (AKA Malbec), Pinot Noir, Romorantin....

I have visited and have bought at the following and can recommend them -

Chinon - Charles Joguet*
Vouvray - Huet* (note not ë), Philippe Foreau (Domaine du Clos Naudin)
Montlouis - François Chidaine* (at his wine shop La Cave Insolite)
Saumur-Champigny - René-Noël Legrand (little known gutsy reds needing some time and now run by his daughter Clotilde - very friendly prices), Filliatreau (lighter wines than Legrand but more accessible young)
Savennières - Château d'Epiré (rather disappointing purchase in late 90s but wines said to be better now)

I would like to visit the following estates whose owners I have met at tastings and whose wines I have bought with great satisfaction -
Chinon - Bernard Baudry*, Philippe Alliet
Bourgueil - Yannick Amirault, Jacky Blot* (Domaine de la Butte), Catherine et Pierre Breton
Montlouis - Jacky Blot* (Domaine de la Taille aux Loups)
Saumur-Champigny - Thierry Germain* (Dom. des Roches Neuves), Chevallier (Ch.de Villeneuve), Vatan (Ch. du Hureau), Clos Rougeard* (no longer owned by Foucault family and stratospheric prices)
Jasnières - Éric Nicolas (Dom.de Bellivière), Les Maisons Rouges
Savennières - Éric Morgat, Dom.du Closel
Sancerre - Dom.Vincent Pinard, Dom.Pascal Cotat

Other estates I would like to visit and where I would be happy to buy -
Touraine - Dom. la Grange Tiphaine, Henry Marionnet*
Cour Cheverny - Domaine de Montcy
Muscadet - Domaine de la Pépière

This is a non-exhaustive list. I always make an appointment when visiting a wine estate, even at the bigger ones which are more geared up for visitors.

My wife and I both being fluent French speakers, I have no personal knowledge where English speakers are available. If needed, it would be a good idea to check when making an appointment. I put a * next to the estates where I guess that there is an English speaker but there may also be some at the others.
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Re: Who should I visit in the Loire?

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Tue Jan 22, 2019 10:21 am

Good list Tim. Looking at the Saumur-Champigny on the shelves here, think area might be worth a visit.

Bourgeuil worth a punt eh.
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Re: Who should I visit in the Loire?

by Tim York » Tue Jan 22, 2019 10:32 am

Bob Parsons Alberta wrote:Good list Tim. Looking at the Saumur-Champigny on the shelves here, think area might be worth a visit.

Bourgeuil worth a punt eh.


Indeed, Bob, there is a cluster of interesting producers of Saumur-Champigny nowadays. Furthermore Saumur is an interesting town and a Mecca for horse lovers where the French army cavalry school is located and puts on fine shows from time to time.

Many of the Saumur-Champigny estates also produce excellent whites from Chenin under the Saumur appellation. Outstanding are those from Thierry Germain, Ch. de Villeneuve and from Clos Rougeard, of course.

RVF has made a thorough review of Saumur and Saumur-Champigny in its last edition but in French only.
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Re: Who should I visit in the Loire?

by Peter May » Tue Jan 22, 2019 1:22 pm

Ted Richards wrote: I don't know Muscadet, Sancerre or the reds much at all..


How long have you got? Muscadet and Sancere are a long way apart, at opposite ends of the Loire wine region. As the varieties grown change as you progress along the Loire unless you have plenty of time consider your interests and prioritise.

We went for a week with a wine club by coach so we could taste along the way and buy wine to bring home. We started inland at Sancerre and worked our way down river but we didn't get to the coast and Muscadet country.

Among names mentioned by others, Henri Bourgeois www.henribourgeois.com/en/ was interesting, in the one street village of Chavignol (village famous for its cheese). Henri Bourgeois makes Sancerre, Pouilly Fume and Pinot Noir and also own a winery in Marlborough, NZ making Sauvignon Blanc there so they are quite open mided.

We visited Fillatreau www.filliatreau.com for a tasting in their large cellar carved out of chalk cliffs. Good Cabernet Franc, I bought a lot.

We enjoyed Vouvray for its still Chenin and sparkling. When I started with wine Vouvray was as famous as Champagne, but that isn't so any more, but their fizz from Chenin is delicious, fruitier and without the harsh acidity found in young cheap Champagne. I bought a case after a tasting at Chateau L'Aulee http://laulee.com/?lang=en

We visited Domaine du Closel www.savennieres-closel.com/?lang=en where owner/winemaker/viticulturist Evelyne de Pontbriand took us to her old bushvine Chenin vineyard and insisted vehemently that she didn't make Chenin wine, -- no, she made Savennières !!

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