Help needed with Piemonte journey

Wine friends,
We are planning a visit to Piemonte in October and, as I have done with such success before (my journeys to Oregon and Marche), I turn to you all with a request for your opinions and tips about whom to visit (or not) among the wine producers. Also restaurant tips and other stuff is of course welcome. We will live in a village just southeast of Barolo and will have access to cars for transport.
Thank you in advance!
Anders
PS. You don't need to have visited the producers to recommend them to me. Your opinion on the best producers in Piemonte (mainly Barolo and Barbaresco), based on tasting their wines, is also most welcome!

Anders
Some notes from a previous trip. As you have a car the winery visits open up much more. Timing is obviously good for truffles (assuming a good harvest), however try to avoid driving through Alba in the afternoon/evening as the elongated festival usually results in gridlock.

The truffle fair on saturdays in Alba is great not just for seeing and buying truffles, but also for the other artisanal producers (especially cheeses), with much available to taste. It costs a couple of Euros to get in, but don't let that put you off.

Book in advance for restaurants at that time of year, or dig out the more out of the way places.

The normal food market has tremendous quality produce, so if you have the opportunity to cook, grab your produce from there, together with some fine wine and perhaps a truffle and make a meal of it!

... anyway the notes/prep list I took there, hope they help:

The subject was Alba and surrounds...

Barbaresco village is worth a stop with the Produttori being a great place to sample the different Cru's in their reserve bottlings. Alba prices for the Cru's are very good, as is availability. Gaja are in Barbaresco as well, but not sure if they do visits! All the wineries listed below are within walking distance of the village (less important as you have a car). General quality of food is extremely high and the food market is possibly the best looking one I've seen in Italy. The "tre stelle" (3 stars) restaurant in the hamlet of the same name on the road out of Barbaresco towards Alba were really helpful to us when we got a bit lost walking the vineyards and booked us a taxi. It looked very fine inside, so I'll have to put a word in for them on those grounds. If you're in Barbaresco for their wine festival, consider going to the regional enoteca as well as or instead of the big tasting, as apparently there were more mature wines on tasting than the main tasting. Young Nebbiolo tasting can be tough (and tannic!)

For Alba, Park near the railway station as it's a very short walk in from there (past the market). Wonderful streets with a great sense of history. Tourist office is up the straight road that skirts the market to the right - I think the 2nd Piazza you come to, the office is on the left. They're slick and helpful - and can book accomodation in advance or on the day if you wish.

Some prep work I did for our last trip below

Hope it all helps

Alba
Markets
Tuesday P.zza Sen. Osvaldo Cagnasso
Wednesday Borgo Moretta
Thursday P.zza Sen. Osvaldo Cagnasso
Friday C.so Europa
Saturday - City Centre

Bike Hire
Cicli Gagliardini – Alba, Via Ospedale, 7

Wineries
Pio Cesare (outskirts of town)
ADDRESS Via C. Balbo, 6,12051Pio Cesare (Cn)
PHONE +39.0173.440386
EMAIL piocesare@piocesare.it
Language spoken: English French Spanish
Opening days: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sundey
Visits by appointment

Restaurants
** Osteria dell’Arco – Piazza Savona (closed Sundays and Monday lunch, sounds like fair wine prices)
Ristorante La Capannina – Locandanda Borgo Moretta, Strada Profunda 21
Il Vicoletto, via Bertero 6 (closed Mondays, classic regional food) 0173 363196

Wine bars (all with food)
Vincaffe – via Vittorio Emanuele 12
Enoclub – Piazza Savona (closed Mondays)
Enoteca Fracchia – Via Vernazza 7
Osteria Lalibera – via Pertinace 24a (closed Sunday, Monday lunch, bit nouvelle…)
Vineria dell’Umberto, Piazza Savona 4 (Closed Mondays)
Enoteca Reciate di Gola – via Cavour 11 (8-1pm; 3-8pm closed Mondays)
Fuori Orario, Corso Torino 4 (6pm onwards, closed Sundays))

Wine Shops
Enoteca Albese Il crutin – via cuneo 3 (Closed Sunday and Monday)
Enoteca Fracchia e Berchialla, Via Vernazza 7 (closed Sunday and Monday)
Enoteca Grandi Vini - Via Vittorio Emanuele II 1/A (doesn’t look too cheap)
Vinolanghe - Via P.Ferrero 8 (no bargains, but seems fairly priced)

Pasticcerie
Cheinasso – Corso Langhe 88 (good torta di nocciole)
Io, tu e I dolci, Piazza Savona 12 (good torta di nocciole)

Coffee Beans
Casa del caffe – via macrino (07:15-12:30; 14:30-19:30 closed mondays)

Shopping St
Vittorio Emanuele 5, 9a, 16a, 18b, 19, 25, 26, 27
Tartufi Morra – Piazza Pertinace 3 (truffles, pesto, oils etc.)

Barbaresco
Wineries
Produttori del Barbaresco
Via Torino, 52, 12050, Barbaresco
Tel. +39.0173.635139
Email produttori@produttoridelbarbaresco.com - Web http://www.produttoridelbarbaresco.com
Language spoken: English German French Spanish
Opening days: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sundey
Opening times: 10.00-12.00 / 15.00-18.00
Tasting free
Professional tasting
Guided tours (cost to be agreed)

Azienda Agricola La Ca Növa
ADDRESS Via Casa Nuova, 1,12050 (Cn)
PHONE +39.0173.635123
EMAIL rocpiec1@tiscali.it
Language spoken: English French Spanish
Opening days: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sundey
Opening times: 09.00-19.00
Tasting free
Professional tasting
Guided tours free
Tourists: groups (20/25)

ENOTECA REGIONALE DEL BARBARESCO
Via Torino, 8/a
12050 Barbaresco (CN)
E-mail: enoteca@enotecadelbarbaresco.it
Opening hours: from 9:30 am to 6 pm. (might close for lunch)
Sunday 9.30 am to 1 pm and 2,30 pm to 6 pm. Closed on wednesday.
Restaurants
Trattoria Antica Torre – Via Torino 8 (closed Wednesdays)
Ristorante Antine Via Torino 34/a (Open lunchtimes – handy for festival)

Neive
Fratelli Giacosa Via XX Settembre 64,
12057 Neive
Tel. 017367013 Fax 017367662
E-mail: giacosa@giacosa.it
Language spoken: English Spanish
Opening days: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday
Opening times: 08.30-12.00 / 14.00-18.30
Tasting free
Professional tasting
Guided tours free

Barolo

Wineries

BORGOGNO GIACOMO & FIGLI
ADDRESS Via Gioberti, 1,12060Borgogno Giacomo & Figli (Cn)
PHONE +39.0173.56108
EMAIL borgogno-barolo@libero.it
WEB http://www.borgogno-wine.com
Language spoken: English German French Spanish
Opening days: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sundey
Opening times: 08.00-12.00 / 14.00-18.00 sabato e domenica: 09.00-13.00
Tasting (cost to be agreed)
Professional tasting
Guided tours free
Tourists: groups (25/30)

Marchesi di Barolo (also in La Morra)
ADDRESS Via Alba, 12,12060 (Cn) & corner via Roma / via XXV Aprile
PHONE +39.0173.564400
EMAIL reception@marchesibarolo.com
WEB http://www.marchesibarolo.com
Language spoken: English German French Spanish
Opening days: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sundey
Opening times: 10.30-13.00 / 14.00-18.00
Tasting by payment
Professional tasting
Guided tours free
Tourists: groups (50)

BRIC CENCIURIO, Via Roma 24

Cantina Mascarello di Mascarello Bartolo
ADDRESS Via Roma, 15, (Cn)
PHONE +39.0173.56125
Language spoken: German French
Opening days: Monday Tuesday Wednesday Thursday Friday Saturday Sundey
Opening times: 08.00-12.00 / 14.30-18.30 sabato 08.00-12.00 / 15.30-18.30 domenica 08.30-12.30
Tasting free
Guided tours free Individual tourism

Enoteca Regionale del Barolo
Castello comunale, P.zza Falletti, 1, 12060, Barolo
Tel. +39.0173.56277 10-12.30 & 3-6.30pm
Email barolo@baroloworld.it - Web http://www.baroloworld.it

Restaurant: Borgo Antico

Alba - Truffle shop is good and whilst touristy, not a savage rip-off. Coffee from the Casa del Caffe was good. We didn't try any of these restaurants, as we were there at the height of truffle season, so had to venture further to get a table.

Neive - Fratelli Giacosa seemed to offer good value Barbaresco that's quite accessible without being too oaky modern.

Barbaresco - If you get the chance, go for a walk and/or drive amongst the vines. Some decent walks from the centre. The enoteca seems well set up.

Barolo - We never made it there but will do either next spring or the one after.

Thanks a lot, Ian! Just the sort of information I was hoping to get. I'll read it through again, a bit more carefully, and might return with some questions.
Cheers, Anders

Anders
Just spotted I'd missed off the very useful tourist info site http://www.langheroero.it/default.asp?language=UK

incidentally, the Alba wine shops seemed to be priced reasoanably fairly, particularly for the Produttori single vineyard wines.

by all means ask away, though in the end we only spent *3 days around Alba and the rest (another week) in Torino. I'll answer as best as I can in that context.

* but we're probably going back again this year or next.

regards

Ian

but we're probably going back again this year

Not during the first week of October? If so, we must arrange to meet!
A

Anders
It's a possibilty, albeit a bit of a long shot at this stage. I'll remember though and if it comes off it would be wonderful to meet up
regards
Ian

Anders,

I've posted some of my favorites[http://www.omwines.com/OliversWineTips.htm] here. (Scroll down.)

Anders,
What should I pack?

JuliaB

Anders,

I'm new to the forum, but I thought I'd put my 2 cents (Cdn) worth as my wife and I had one of our most memorable trips to Barolo in Oct. 05.

Make sure you visit Mauro Veglio and Elio Altare who are side by side. Veglio's wife speaks English and is charming. They are modern producers, owing much to Altare who they consider a genius, but they are generous and very proud (justifiably) of their wine. They sell all their available wines at the winery for very low prices.

Also, if you speak Italian (or have access to a translator) visit Giacomo Conterno. Their regular Barolo (Cascina Francia) is stellar, but if you have an appointment with Roberto Conterno and know anything about Barolo, he may pour the Monfortine, arguably the finest, longest lived Barolo. We had the '97, which Roberto was proud of, but conceded was too ripe for his tastes, but which was the most profoud wine we tasted during the entire trip. I could still taste it 3 hours later. They don't sell at the winery.

We also enjoyed visits to Corino (tough to find, in the bottom of his house), Gianfranco Alessandra, Dominco Clerico, Ratti and Mascarello.
All required appointments but we found everyone to be generous, proud of their wines and committed to quality, in ridiculously small quantities. We avoided the larger producers like Pio Cesare, Fontanafreda and Marchese di Barolo, but met people who loved their visit to the later.

Can't remember any of the restaurant names at the moment, but the best (and most expensive) meal we had was at the Castello di Verduno. Ornate room and formal service, but a great sommelier with a tradtional Piedmonte menu. As with the wine, there was no bad food, only variations of brilliant.

Good luck,
Tim

Hi Anders,

My wife and I visited la Morra for 4 days last October in the middle of a trip that also included visits to Bergamo and Torino father north and Liguria to the south.

La Morra is definitely worth a visit. On Saturdays in October the Enoteca near the top of the hill, has tastings where many of the local producers pour their wines. The day we were there Robert Voerzio was pouring 4 of his single vineyard Barolos which made many of the visitors very happy.

At the top of the town with a commanding view of the hillside vineyards and surrounding towns is a fantastic restaurant, The Belvedere. We had a tremendous dinner there, a 4 course tasting menu, all very traditional Piedmontese dishes for $43 Euros. The cellar and wine list is unbelievable. You can make a reservation, which is mandatory during truffle season, by phone or by the internet.

http://www.belvederelamorra.it/index_E.html

We visited the Marcarini winery while we were in La Morra. It is located in the center of town, almost in the same block as Ristorante Belvedere. They are open Monday through Friday and you can make an appointment to visit by email. We had a great tour of the cellar followed by a comprehensive tasting including barrel samples of their 2003 Barolos La Serra and Brunate. These were fascinating to taste side by side as the vineyards are next to each other and the wine is vinified in the same way, but the differences in the wine was very apparent. La Serra, coming from a higher altitude, ripens later and was a little sweeter and floral, with graceful tannins. Brunate, which is lower down the slope, was masculine, with mint and balsamic flavors and serious structure. By the way I loved the 03 Barolos here, very traditional and not overripe or hot. We had a private tour that day by Elena, who is an assistant at Marcarini, and is fluent in English. We briefly met the owners, the Marchettis, but they were busy meeting with their Italian distributor so didn't have a lot of time. I highly recommend this winery to visit if you are in La Morra.

http://www.marcarini.it/

We also visited GD Varja winery. I love these wines, from the top of the line Barolo from Bricco delle Viole to the Friesa and their very unique Langhe Bianco made from riesling. The winery is located in Vergne, a tiny village between La Morra and Barolo. You can schedule a visit via email here also. Aldo Vaira and his wife Milena, the owners, couldn't have been nicer. They are very compassionate about the wines and this was a pleasant visit for us as well. The Bricco delle Viole in 2001 is an elegant and traditionally made barolo, that shows the feminine burgundian style of nebbiolo. The 2002 Barolo normale was also very good and a bargain at 20 euros. The Friesa is very unique and I thought delicious. It is a big dark still version of freisa that sees time in small barrique. Some folks I met in Torino didn't think this was the highest use for freisa, but it is a serious wine that Aldo Vaira thinks is every bit as good as the nebbiolo based wines. Highly recommended for the tasting and chance to meet Aldo Vaira.

http://www.barolodibarolo.com/inglese/s ... azienda=24

The last winery we visited was Elio Grasso that is located high up in the hillsides above Monforte de Alba. The setting here is beautiful overlooking the vines and farms below. The day we were there Elio was out of town, and his wife Marina was inundated with a busload of visitors that had arrived before us. She was very welcoming and gracious, and gave us some bread and cheese and a bottle of their Chardonnay to try while we waited for her to finish with the bus group. The Chardonnay was minerally with fine ripe fruit flavors but showed a lot of new oak also.

The 2 traditionally made Barolo here from 2001 (Chiniera and Ginestra) were sold out but we did get to sample the 01 Runcot which is aged in small Barriques. It will be a tremendous wine when the oak flavors integrate in a few years. In 2002 Grasso didn't make any single vineyard Barolo, but blended the grapes into one Barolo bottling. It was lighter but highly drinkable with good nebbiolo characteristics and a good bargain as well. A beautiful place to visit, and Marina Grasso who speaks perfect English, was very friendly. You can also make an appointment via email here.

http://www.eliograsso.it/index2.htm

The best restaurant we tried during our stay is called La Antica Corona Reale in Cevere. This was one of the best dining experiences of my life. We had a three course lunch with the highlight being a truffle, fontina cheese and fresh egg dish. Simple but profound. Highest recommendation. Here is a link to someone's blog who took pictures at this restaurant to give you a better idea.

http://augieland.blogs.com/augie_land/2 ... ona_r.html

Defintely make appointments ahead at all the wineries you want to visit. I saw walk up visitors without appointments turned away. If you have trouble making contact, ask your hotel owner to call for you, this helped us a lot. Speaking Italian is a major plus. Many of the winemakers speak French also. Less speak English, but they were able to find someone who did speak English to show us around at the places we visited.

During October, it is important to get restaurant reservations ahead of time as the restaurants are full during the truffle season.

Have a great trip.

Best,
Marc Davis

Anders,

Where are you staying?

I heartily second the recommendation of Antica Corona Reale (often referred to simply as Da Renzo).

Anders,
What should I pack?

JuliaB

Your table dancing shoes, of course!

Anders,
What should I pack?

JuliaB

Oh Julia, just yourself would certainly be more than enough!
/A

Anders,

Where are you staying?

Oliver, in the commune of Cravanzana, some, for me yet unknown, distance to the east of Barolo. Here's a link to a map:
http://www.comuni-italiani.it/004/076/mappa.html
Cheers, Anders

You will be near another good restaurant located in Serravalle Langhe called La Coccinella. Oliver can tell you all about it. In fact I learned of this one from Oliver's website and we had a great meal there on our trip. So belated thanks, Oliver!

Best,
Marc Davis

Marc,

You're welcome. That place is fantastic, real Piedmontese flavors without being heavy. the list is improving every year, too.

Anders,

Where are you staying?

Oliver, in the commune of Cravanzana, some, for me yet unknown, distance to the east of Barolo. Here's a link to a map:
http://www.comuni-italiani.it/004/076/mappa.html
Cheers, Anders

Wow, the depths of deepest Piedmont. Good for you. There's a famous restaurant in Bergolo, too, not too far from there ('l Bunet, I think). And Agriturismo Gallo above Cortemilia is mindbending, great salame, huge list...

[

Your table dancing shoes, of course! [/quote][/quote]

That was a given, Luv!

GiuliaB

Wine friends,
We are planning a visit to Piemonte in October and, as I have done with such success before (my journeys to Oregon and Marche), I turn to you all with a request for your opinions and tips about whom to visit (or not) among the wine producers. Also restaurant tips and other stuff is of course welcome. We will live in a village just southeast of Barolo and will have access to cars for transport.
Thank you in advance!
Anders
PS. You don't need to have visited the producers to recommend them to me. Your opinion on the best producers in Piemonte (mainly Barolo and Barbaresco), based on tasting their wines, is also most welcome!

Anders, caro amico - Piemonte is an area I have yet to visit. The closest I have been to was Milan and Liguria (Genova, Santa Margherita and Portofino). Seems like you already got a lot of great information. Hope you take LOTS of pictures when you are there to share with us!!!!

Ian, Oliver, Tim, Marc and others,

Thank you all for your great help! I knew I could count on getting some serious advice here and I have sure got it! If anyone else want to chime in with their personal favourites in the Piemonte area, I'd be even happier.

I will meet one of my travelling companions tomorrow evening (at a wine tasting, of course...) and will discuss some names with him. On my list right now is Gaja (if I might succeed in arranging a visit), Giacomo Conterno (I had a 1970 Monfortino in Rome in 1988 - one of the "most memorable" wines I have ever had), Mascarello, Bruno Giacosa (nobody has mentioned him, but a Barbaresco of his, (bought in Rome in 1988, at the same time as I tasted the Monfortino I mentioned above) from 1983 and consumed last year, was probably the best Nebbiolo wine I have ever had. Does anybody know if he accepts visitors?). Also I might go for Elio Grasso, Aldo Conterno, Produttori del Barbaresco, Elio Altare, Mauro Veglio and others... BTW, who would you consider to be the king of Barbera in Piemonte?

I still have plenty of time until the first week of October, but planning is indeed a substantial, and very pleasant, part of a journey, don't you think?

So, again, don't hesitate to chime in with further vies of yours.
Cheers, Anders

Anders
Although I doubt they are the top winery for Barbera, Prunotto do a very good range of them and we were very impressed by their Costamiole. They also have another top one (Pian Romauldo or similar?). There seems to be a great resurgence around this grape, with some very serious (and one or two overworked) wines. Definitely one to take some local opinions as I suspect new stars arise every year at the moment.
regards
Ian

It took me some time to recall thier name, but eventually it showed up from somewhere in the dark depths of the mysterios memory: Braida of Giacomo Bologna, was the name I was thinking of as the possible king of Barbera in Piemonte. Any views of them? I have to admit, that while I hve been impressed by several of their wines, I have also sometimes got the impression that they might classify as "overworked". "Spoofulated", I guess is the word Otto would use...
Maybe they are also a bit far away from where we ae based, but I haven't got a clear impression of the time it takes to move around in the region yet.
Cheers, Anders

Anders
Re: moving around. Touring Club of Italy maps 1 and 5 both cover the wine regions of Piemonte (either map will be ok). Your location looks good for getting to Barbaresco, Barolo, Dogliani etc. without having to go through Alba. I'd recommend taking a good stroll through the vineyards if the weather is good, as a fine autumn day strolling amongst the vines is wonderful.
As for Braida, a friend used to stock their wines before the prices went high and he reckons they're a bit pricey now and quite modern styled. That's not to say a trip there isn't worth it though.
regards
Ian

but we're probably going back again this year

Not during the first week of October? If so, we must arrange to meet!
A

Anders
Plans change and ... yes we're heading over again in October. I suspect we'll miss you as we arrive on 7th/8th October, spend a few days in Torino, then a few days in Cuneo and finishing in La Morra.
I look forward to comparing notes with you though.
regards
Ian