Quinta do Romeira Morgado de Santa Catarina Bucelas 2004
Bucelas (minimum of 75% Arinto, with the rest made up of Esgana Cão and Rabo de Ovelha) is a wine I've long wanted to try. Alongside Colares and Carcavelos it is the third of the once famous terroirs that is now under threat from an expanding Lisbon.
In the 1970's there was only one producer making wine in Bucelas. But it hasn't always been in such a sorry state. Shakespeare mentions it in Henry VI but uses the name Charneco (from the village of Charneca close to where the wines are grown); Wellington made it popular in England (as he did with Carcavelos), where it became known as Portuguese Hock. Though it doesn't seem to be a household name today, it's prospects are brighter as apparently the area under vine has increased and investments are being put in.
I was very excited to taste this wine. But unfortunately I was sorely disappointed. This smelled of French oak and tasted of it also. Sure it seemed to retain great levels of acidity despite being from a very hot climate. I really hope that this particular wine is just a freak - it would be a shame if revitalising the region means making wine in a style that can be and is made everywhere.
-O-
