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WTN: Many Magnums Massacred

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Dale Williams

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WTN: Many Magnums Massacred

by Dale Williams » Fri Feb 16, 2007 1:50 pm

Arv Rao organized a group last night for a Post-Valentine's Magnum Madness dinner at Triomphe. A chance for geeks to gather with our spouses (or spouse-to-be in Arv's case). 5 couples plus Matt (Kristin was stuck in CA after a cancelled flight) gathered for a nice evening.

My contribution was the 2001 Nigl "Privat" Gruner Veltliner (Kremstal) (magnum). On the one hand, one of my favorite wines of the night, on the other hand a tad disappointing as it wasn't quite what I expected. Instead of the regally austere wine I had anticipated based on other Privats, this was a juicy/friendly slobbery kiss of a GV. White peach and tropical fruits, big, with a touch of sweetness I didn't expect. Lots of body, a little hint of white pepper and lots of mineral notes on the finish. Big white, ready to go. Saved a bit for the first course, very good match with Betsy's scallops in foie gras butter. A-/B+

On to the reds
1982 Ch. Montelena Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa) (magnum)
Ripe soft red currant fruit, some earth, and some animal/fur notes. Jacques found it too bretty, I thought it was just a touch and found it added to the wine. Revisited later there was some mushroom and black olive notes. Probably a tie for best red of the night for me, not very long or deep but very pleasant mature CS. B+

1975 Ch. Palmer (Margaux)

A 750. At first quite dominated by really drying tannins, though with pleasant enough fruit flavors of roasted red plums and cherry, with a smoky edge. But those tannins. Revisited much later an initial sip was my favorite sip of wine of the night, a gloriously aromatic and deep mature Bordeaux, but just 5 minutes in the glass left it pruney. Excluding that one sip, B-/C+

1998 Ch. Quinault L'Enclos (St Emilion) (magnum)
So my initial notes read " vanilla, vanilla oak, oaky vanilla, oak, and toasted oak." On palate showing more blueberries and black plum. With some time it calms down a bit and the oak at least partially integrates, but still I don't care for this. Big wine but a little hollow in the middle, unsure time will help. Others like better. C+

2004 Vall Llach (Priorat)
Brawny beasty bouncer of a wine, beats you up and throws you out on the sidewalk. This is too hot, too oaky, and too big for me, but I respect it more than the Quinault because it seems to me to be what Priorat is about. But I'd rather drink their second wine, Embruix. B-/B

2001 Phelps Insignia (Napa)(magnum)
This is all about the sweet fruit, but it does that simple task quite well. Tannins are apparent but very ripe and easy, good acidity for a CalCab, balanced overall. B+

1998 Frogs Leap Cabernet Sauvignon(Rutherford) (magnum)
Pleasant fruit-forward style of CS, a little note of green underneath. OK though it didn't make a big impression. B

1996 Rene Renou "Les Melleresses" Bonnezeaux
I had bought a little assortment of '96 Renous, reviewing notes I really liked the Cuvee Anne, less excited with other bottlings. That still holds true. Waxy Chenin nose, but fruit has an overripe overwrought quality, kind of canned apricots meets canned peaches. C+

Maybe not the best wine night, but quite fun. Nice to have Betsy with me at a wine event, to see old friends, and meet a few new people.

Triomphe was having an event in the main dining room, and we were with a few other tables in what is normally the private room. I thought service suffered a bit , probably due to emphasis being placed on the other event. A decent job done of keeping my water glass filled (always a daunting task), but it was a struggle to get even rudimentary glassware (luckily I had brought a few stems). Our food was mostly quite good- I enjoyed my venison main course, my endive salad, and my squab starter. Betsy's scallops, soup, and lamb were mostly good, though the last a bit underseasoned. Strangely, we split a 3 cheese assortment and got 2 blues (one Stiltonish,the other more like a Roquefort). Don't think that was intended, but we were pretty full and just nibbled (good berries and apple, too). But the main thing was the people, and I think everyone had a good time.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

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