by Bob Ross » Sat Feb 17, 2007 1:19 pm
Paulo, just by chance Sergio Esposito, Batali's partner in the Italian Wine Merchants, had a neat little intro to Veneto this week. I thought you might find his overview helpful -- I've left out the specific reccos and extract only the summaries:
Valpolicella Classico
Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore and/or Ripasso, Amarone della Valpolicella, and Recioto della Valpolicella all generally comprise the Veneto grape trio of Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. To comprehend these wines fully, it is best to begin with the simple, dry red known as Valpolicella (and Classico); The Classico (denotes a wine that is made in the inner, superior Valpolicella zone) is the simplest expression of the Valpolicella quartet.
For Valpolicella, Corvina and Rondinella typically represent a minimum of 60% of the blend; the former contributes structural elements and deep cherry aromatics, and the latter imparts a floral note. Molinara’s role has been increasingly reduced in recent years; some producers favor Corvinone, a grape that is thought to be a subvariety of Corvina. Small amounts of other local and international varieties constitute the remaining percentage; the former include Negrara, Croatina, Teroldego, and Dindarella, and the latter, Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon.
Both Corte Sant’Alda’s Ca’ Fiui bottling and Nicolis’ Valpolicella Classico offer textbook introductions to the character of Valpolicella’s most modest expression. Each features the standard varietal composition (Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara), and sees only a brief period of oak aging. The Ca’ Fiui delivers red cherry fruit and a distinct savory element melding with layers of spice; the Nicolis also offers a savory–spicy dimension with hints of plums and cherries. A Valpolicella Normale typically accommodates a wide range of foods, given its marked acidity and lean fruit expression (relative to the other Valpolicella wines). Pasta, grilled vegetables, poultry, and red meats all find a reliable partner in this staple expression of the Veneto.
Valpolicella Superiore & Ripasso
Perhaps one of the best values in Italian wine based on a price-to-quality ratio is Valpolicella Superiore. At the Superiore level, Valpolicella must achieve higher alcohol content, receive longer aging, and display more body and structure than the simple Valpolicella. To reach these goals many Superiore undergo one of two techniques: “governo alla Toscana” or ripasso.
At this level of the hierarchy, Amarone and Valpolicella meet “halfway,” so to speak. Under the “governo alla Toscana” method (its name pays tribute to its original identity as a refermentation technique used in the Chianti zone), producers blend the finished Valpolicella with a small percentage of Amarone (from withered and concentrated grapes) remaining from a previous batch. Others employ the ripasso method, enriching the Valpolicella wine through direct contact with (or passing through) the Amarone’s lees. The grapes used for a Valpolicella Superiore are fully ripe, yet are not deemed fit to perform well in the drying room, which is used in the appassimento (or passito) process for Amarone.
The Novaia and Corte Sant’Alda bottlings both derive from the ripasso method, receiving the beneficent influence of Amarone’s opulent character. Novaia employs slightly overripe grapes and substitutes Corvinone for Molinara; it is aged in barrique for 2 years and the influence of dried grapes is discernible on the palate. The Corte Sant’Alda, aged in barrique for 18 months, is slightly more restrained, yet captures the attractive flavor of morello cherries.
Perhaps the ultimate expression for Valpolicella comes from Romano Dal Forno. His technique is more in keeping with the “governo alla Toscana” method, which provides for higher concentration. Dal Forno's Valpolicellas typically outperform most Amarones on the market.
Amarone della Valpolicella
Valpolicella Superiore, however extracted, offers but a modest suggestion of Amarone—the masterpiece of the Veneto. Having long resided in the upper echelon of Italian wine, no other dry wine in the world offers Amarone’s level of extraction and complexity. Such depth is achieved through the appassimento process, during which winemakers spread out carefully selected grapes in single layers to dry on straw or plastic mats for 60 to 100 days. During this time, the grapes loose a substantive amount of water weight, dramatically concentrating their sugars. Thereafter, the raisined grapes are crushed and fully fermented into a dry, full-bodied wine marked by high alcohol (a minimum of 14%, though it frequently attains between 15 - 16%). Part of its great intrigue lies in its deceptive nature: While the palate may initially interpret it as sweet, it finishes wholly dry, a quality that is often rather austere in certain productions.
At present, a triumvirate of producers defines the rare heights of expression realized by Amarone—Giuseppe Quintarelli, Romano dal Forno, and Tommaso Bussola. The first two are undisputed and highly revered masters of the form.
While Quintarelli—whose wines we will present in a special offering in the near future—crafts complex Amarones with a distinctive rusticity and earthy element, dal Forno delivers power-driven, opulent wines. Appropriately enough, dal Forno regards Amarone as an “extreme, emotional” wine. While these two masters certainly always stir the emotions of wine connoisseurs, at the moment, we at IWM are riveted by the highly anticipated return of Tommaso Bussola to our Veneto producer list. Several years ago, Quintarelli named him as the rising star of the Veneto, a designation that Bussola has more than validated through his tenacious experimentation regimen, a fierce discipline that has wrought wines of incredible intensity, garnering the most prestigious of accolades and placing his bottlings in the near-unattainable zone.
Recioto della Valpolicella
This is Valpolicella’s initial incarnation—a sweet wine that dates back to the Romans, who are credited with having developed the appassimento process (drying of the grapes). The sweetness derives from an arrested fermentation, a procedure that stops the conversion of sugar into alcohol, thereby leaving residual sugar. It is widely believed that Amarone emerged as the dry counterpart to Recioto when an unattended barrel of the latter fermented fully.
Novaia’s Recioto is pronounced on both the nose and palate, delivering a profusion of flavors encompassing florals, spices, red fruits, coffee, and chocolate. As with Amarone, a Recioto may be enjoyed on its own, though it marries well with a wide variety of cheeses (hard, mature, and creamy), as well as many pastries from the classic dessert tray.
Regards, Bob
