Wine Focus July 2022: Chenin Blanc (and Shiraz)

[Robin Garr]

I had a hard time finding a Loire Chenin Blanc but finally ran across this Anjou Blanc from an importer I had never heard of: Mary Taylor. Turns out Asimov did a very positive review of her and ger work: You can read the full column at this gift link, which will bypass the Times' paywall and open it for you without charge.

David, Mary Taylor is a Connecticutter (Connecutite?). I know it's not that small a state, but she's in wine. Have you heard or or met her?


Pascal Biotteau 2020 Anjou Blanc ($16.99)

Pascal Biotteau Anjou Blanc is a delicious Loire white wine made with 100% Chenin Blanc. It's a clear, light gold color with a flash of brassy green, and it breathes appealing scents of honey that lead into fresh, juicy apricot. Honey and apricot carry over on the palate with a rich, medium-bodied flavor with just a touch of fresh-fruit sweetness that's nicely balanced with zippy acidity and a distant note of stone fruit-pit bitterness. It's an interesting and complex wine, a pure, un-oaked introduction to Loire Chenin Blanc. 14% alcohol. U.S. importer: Nashawtuc LLC, Sandy Hook, Connecticut, A Mary Taylor Selection. (July 16, 2022)

FOOD MATCH: Wine-Searcher.com suggests pairing this wine with chicken and turkey. We enjoyed it with a summer meal of stuffed green peppers from the garden.

WHEN TO DRINK: This fresh and enjoyable wine is good for immediate consumption. But Chenin Blanc, like Riesling, can age surprisingly well under good celler conditions. It might be interesting to set aside a few bottles for five years or so and see if they gain complexity.

VALUE:
My local price matches Wine-Searcher.com's $17 average U.S. retail, and it's a good buy at that price. Some vendors offer it for a few dollars less.

WEB LINK:
Here's an info page about Biotteau Anjou Blanc from importer Mary Taylor. Use this link to read more about Mary Taylor Wine.

FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:
Check prices and find vendors for Pascal Biotteau Anjou Blanc on Wine-Searcher.com.

Learn more about the Anjou wine region in the Loire at this Wine-Searcher link.

This Wine-Searcher link provides information about the Chenin Blanc grape, with links to dozens of wines made with this variety.

[Jenise]

Hmmm...four more days and I haven't opened a shiraz yet.

[David M. Bueker]

I only have a single bottle of varietally-labelled Shiraz. I AM NOT opening it in the month of July.

[David M. Bueker]

2009 Domaine Huet Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (7/27/2022)
Salty, spicy, and I think with more than a hint of oxidative elements, but for a sweet wine it’s not distracting. Feels like a 30 year old Auslese, which is delicious but disturbing for a thirteen year old wine.

Hi all..back from my 4 week butterfly trip..Montana, Washington, Southern BC. Really enjoyed the Spier Chenin Blanc on 2 occasions but splurged on Okanagans Fern Walk PG again this year. Also picked up the Adega Cab Franc that Jenise raved about earlier this year.

2021 Spier Signature Chenin Blanc (Western Cape, South Africa)
Up front tropical fruit, the nose charms with an abundance of green guava, pear, apple and lychee. The palate follows through with fruit flavours, balanced by a crisp lemon acid to ensure a fresh and fruity style of wine. Only ever so slightly off-dry. Try with a spinach and bacon and feta salad. Only $16 Cda

[David M. Bueker]

Welcome back Bob! See anything notable on this trip?

[Robin Garr]

Welcome back, Bob!

This is not ageworthy Vouvray in the same class as, say, Huet, Foreau, Chidaine and Blot, but it costs about half those and is available at a local store. Some of the Loire chenin producers have had difficulty in recent torrid vintages in keeping the desirable sharp focus and freshness in these wines and that was definitely the case here in 2020. For my palate, the wine has benefited from the more temperate conditions of 2021. I wonder how they will fare this year with record temperature spikes and prolonged drought.

2021 Clos de Nouys Vouvray Sec - France, Loire Valley, Touraine, Vouvray (29/07/2022)
This is lighter than the '19 and '20, but I definitely prefer it to the latter which was too rich and tendre for me at a similar stage. Like most Loire chenin not quite bone dry, this shows an attractive fragrance, fruit with citrus and white fruit notes and fine minerality backed up by moreish acidity. Maybe too light to produce typical complexity with more age but good wine right now and good QPR at about €9.
Posted from CellarTracker

Always something new to learn. I recently saw some Clos du Gaimont Vouvray available in the US, which is apparently a subparcel of Clos de Nouys (I hadn't heard of either until recently). The CdG is $20-25 in the US.

Chenin can make superb sweeties -

1996 Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu Les Rouannières - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu (13/08/2022)
This shows deep amber colour and an intoxicating bouquet on the nose of ripe apricot, nuts, a touch of toffee, fine minerals and bracing acidity. This follows through onto the richly sweet palate which is superbly balanced by a spine of brilliant acidity which prevents any cloying. There was perhaps just a hint of cabbage notes presaging coming decline of this bottle at least but it did not hinder enjoyment. Very good.
Posted from CellarTracker

Chenin can make superb sweeties -

1996 Château Pierre-Bise Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu Les Rouannières - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Coteaux du Layon-Beaulieu (13/08/2022)
This shows deep amber colour and an intoxicating bouquet on the nose of ripe apricot, nuts, a touch of toffee, fine minerals and bracing acidity. This follows through onto the richly sweet palate which is superbly balanced by a spine of brilliant acidity which prevents any cloying. There was perhaps just a hint of cabbage notes presaging coming decline of this bottle at least but it did not hinder enjoyment. Very good.
Posted from CellarTracker

Thanks for that. Glad to hear it's doing well. Been a long time since I drank those wines, but at one point they were very common around these boards!