Wine Focus August 2022: Pinot Noir & special guest Albariño

[Jenise]

2005 Louis Jadot Pommard Pinot Noir
Decanted ahead two hours. Bright red fruit, on the lighter/leaner side for both vintage and appellation. Looking back through notes by others, this probably peaked about 2018 and is in decline now, but it still drank well enough last night to pair with grilled veal chops.

[David M. Bueker]

I know that’s one of their less heralded negotiant wines, but it still gives me a push to open some 2005 Burgs again this fall.

[Jenise]

It actually deliverted more than expected based on one previous bottle, but at the same time I wasn't expecting much. It was merely nice enough.

[David M. Bueker]

2018 Hudelot Noellat Bourgogne is wonderful tonight. Earthy aromatics, good fruit, solid structure - it has it all. I could be very happy with this as the Pinot Noir I had at least 50% of the time. It ticks all the boxes.

[Jenise]

I don't buy enough bourgogne, David. I don't feel familiar enough nor do I have many sources for same where I live.

[Jenise]

A few nights ago we really enjoyed a 2020 Avelada Alvarinho from Portugal. This showed more character than I associate with it's Spanish cousins, a grape that in this price range ($15ish) usually has no specific personality vs. just a being a high acid white that you can only identify when you've ruled out everything else. But this one has real character. Blind I might have guessed Gruner Veltliner for its notes of sweet lettuces and green peas straight from the garden. Really nice. And like so many wines from Portugal, a QPR bargain.

[David M. Bueker]

I don't buy enough bourgogne, David. I don't feel familiar enough nor do I have many sources for same where I live.

I can see that being an issue. I have followed H-N for well over a decade, and of course Mugneret-Gibourg for even longer. I had to give up on M-G due to price and allocation cuts, but there’s still a fair stash in the cellar.

I need to figure out a new Bourgogne target. Have not tried a Chevillon Bourgogne in a long time. That might be a possibility.

Of course there are also good, under the radar, producers (e.g., Michelot) where village wines are in the same price range as more sought after Bourgogne bottlings.

And then there is the undeniable fact that I already own way too much wine, and should just drink up!

So when it comes to Bourgogne, you may not be a know-it-all, but you Noellat.

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

I need to figure out a new Bourgogne target. Have not tried a Chevillon Bourgogne in a long time. That might be a possibility.
...And then there is the undeniable fact that I already own way too much wine, and should just drink up!

I would buy Chevillon without hesitation. Were I to see it.

Otherwise cellar capacity is a problem-o here at Chez J as well, and I have a third of what I guess you do!

[David M. Bueker]

Same here. I just have not bought Chevillon Bourgogne in a number of years.

[David M. Bueker]

2018 Jürgen von der Mark Pinot Noir Engertstein - Germany, Baden (8/28/2022)
Lots of fresh red fruit, but also a disturbing pickle juice note that I found off putting. Couldn’t finish a glass.



2017 Haden Fig Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (8/28/2022)
More fruit forward than a lot of the Oregon Pinot I usually drink, but not at all over the top. Fresh red berry with good acid structure. Perhaps less tannin that I prefer for aging, but it drinks very well now, and not everything has to be a cellar candidate. I could definitely see myself opening a few like this each year.

Being on a vacation in Northern Portugal we feel obliged to contribute to this thread. We can confirm Jenise's positive evaluation of the Avelada Alvarinho, except that we bought our second bottle here today for 4,69€ We give a brief tasting note about an Alvarinho we bought at 6,99€.

Alvarinho Deu da Deu 2021, Moncao e Melgaco
Beautiful nose of lemon, pear, orange blossom and acacia honey. The harmonic palate besides the aromas from the nose has also orange zests. Slightly bitter in a nice way. Short to medium finish.

Went quite well with an improvised soup from local produce somewhere between a caldo verde and an acorda a alentejana.

Sorry about the missing accents, I am on a vacation.

[David M. Bueker]

Here's a few in case you need them. ~ ~ ~

Gimme a cedilla and an accent grave.

[Jenise]

Last night the Dorks got together for 'Open White'--all wines served blind. And of all things someone brought this stunner from the other side of the country: Maryland! Spicy with strong salinity, two things you don't usually find in the same bottle, turned out to be an alluring greeting card for a blend of muscat, chardonnay and albarino, a '19 Old Westminster 'Home Vineyard' white blend. In addition to the lovely nose, it had good body and a long finish. Definitely a quality wine.

[David M. Bueker]

I have been surprised by some high quality stuff coming out of a few Maryland wineries. I will have to seek this one out next time I head down there.

[David M. Bueker]

2014 Rhys Pinot Noir Alpine Vineyard - USA, California, Santa Cruz Mountains (8/30/2022)
The 2014 Rhys Pinots are a bit of a guessing game right now. This bottle showed an intermediate stage of development, with some roundness to the spice, sanding off a few of the edges, but still a lot of deep red fruit. That was from a 500ml bottle, rather than a 750. Certainly no reason to fear more age, as the fruit remained strong. Perhaps it’s time to think of these (at least Alpine, Horseshoe and Skyline) in Burgundian aging time scale, as most California Pinots would show more development by age eight. That said, who knows! It’s Rhys, and still largely uncharted territory.

[Jenise]

Served the Aveleda Alvarinho last night at a small dinner party, and while not the most expensive wine on the table by far, it was by far the best. Am definitely going to buy more of this before summer peters out and it disappears.