2020 Müller-Catoir Haardter Bürgergarten Muskateller Erste Lage Trocken - Germany, Pfalz (3/22/2023)
It’s the Electric Muskateller Acid Test! This is crazy vivid, putting to shame the term “aromatic varietal.” It’s not just aromatic, but it evokes visuals. It’s a swirling vortex of pink grapefruit, quince, sassafras, lychee and sweet herbs. Anyone old enough to recall a kaleidoscope can understand the intensely colorful visual, which here is translated to smell and taste. It’s been a long time since I tasted a Muscat this intense, probably back to the Hans Gunter Schwarz days at Catoir. It’s a bit of a revelation to experience it again, with digital clarity but analog depth.