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WTN: 2002 Graf Károlyi Cabernet Franc (Szekszárd, Hungary)

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Paul B.

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WTN: 2002 Graf Károlyi Cabernet Franc (Szekszárd, Hungary)

by Paul B. » Sat Mar 17, 2007 11:46 pm

It's been a while already since I saw the last premium bottling of anything Hungarian at Vintages, though while there recently I came across this Cab Franc which is a rarity to be sure. I picked a bottle of it up since Central European wines are near and dear to my vinous heart and I rarely pass up a chance to better acquaint myself with quality table wines from that part of the world.

12.5% alc. Clear medium-garnet colour with pretty saturation. Intensely juicy nose featuring tart tomato purée, sumac and green bell pepper aromas; all very appetizing. Very tart and grippy on the entry with bright, lean acidity; very much a table wine in need of food to accompany it. Flavours are consistent with the nose. Acidity dominates over the tannins but despite this fact, the nose is not excessively green. (In Ontario, by contrast, it seems that Cab Franc shows plenty of bell pepper on the nose but the tannins share centre stage with the acidity.) A streak of wood spice adds a pleasant dimension to the wine and rounds out the pleasantly dry and astringent finish. I get the feeling that this wine should be drunk up soon; no point laying it down.

I do expect the bouquet to evolve and integrate within the coming day. I will post a follow-up note tomorrow to see how the wine evolves in the open bottle. I just opened it 20 minutes ago, so it may be in a bit of a slumber at this point, but it's very good already.
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Bill Hooper

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Re: WTN: 2002 Graf Károlyi Cabernet Franc (Szekszárd, Hungary)

by Bill Hooper » Sun Mar 18, 2007 3:03 pm

Graf Károly is the name for Danubiana's premium line (I thought it was only available in Germany). I've had a few wines from them over the years, and although they are HUGE (on a production sclae), Danubiana is constantly improving quality from it's humble beginnings as a Hungarian grocery-store brand. I'm glad we (or you) are starting to see wines from Szekszard in North America. Wines from Villany (IMO, one of Hungarys most fascinating red-wine regions) can't be far behind. Keep on the prowl, Paul, and thanks for the note!
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Re: WTN: 2002 Graf Károlyi Cabernet Franc (Szekszárd, Hungary)

by Paul B. » Sun Mar 18, 2007 7:15 pm

Bill, many thanks for your reply. I was just about to post a follow-up to yesterday's note.

You know, I think that this bottling was intended for the German market, because the producer's name is actually in German and not in Hungarian, and there is German on the back label too (in addition to English).

Now, for a bit of disappointment: the wine basically fell apart overnight. Today, much to my dismay, it tasted sour and vinegary ... the acidity was way out of whack here for some reason. The nose was great yesterday; complex and enjoyable. Today, though, I found it a pain to drink (literally); had a glass with lunch, and developed a bad headache a half hour later. I finally decided to dump the rest - it just wasn't getting any better. I wonder if they had issues with the '02 bottling and some enterprising person decided to dump the stock onto the LCBO? I just wonder. I'm not a cynic by nature but I can't help wonder ...

As for Central European wines in general, I love them and you can rest assured that I will continue to seek them out with uncompromising dedication! :D

P.S. I opened an '05 Henry of Pelham Cab/Merlot in its place and this one is far more balanced and in great shape. TN to come shortly.
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