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WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

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JC (NC)

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WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by JC (NC) » Thu Mar 29, 2007 3:12 pm

The third meeting of the Fayetteville Wine Society on March 26 featured three flights of two wines each--same grape variety--one old world sample and one new world sample. They were served half blind (we knew what wines were being served but not in what order). Actually, the contrasts were great enough that even most of the less experienced wine drinkers were able to correctly guess which was which. In the first two pairings I preferred the Old World wine but was probably in the minority. With the third pairing I wasn't very thrilled with either wine.
Pairing #1 Riesling--Josmeyer Riesling "Le Dragon" 2001, Alsace, France
Chateau Ste. Michelle Riesling "Eroica" 2005,
Columbia Valley, Washington State

Josmeyer wines produced with biodynamic techniques--Alsace allows chapitalization, addition of sugar during the winemaking process if needed to balance acids

My preference was for the Alsatian Riesling which was dryer, richer and more mouthfeel than the Eroica.

Pairing #2 Merlot
Chateau De Sales Pomerol 2003, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
Northstar Merlot 2002, Columbia Valley, Washington State
Here I thought the 2003 vintage might throw off the judgment because I would expect riper, jammier fruit in Europe that vintage but it was still easy to pick the Old World wine. One lady at my table who runs a wine shop kept describing the Pomerol as "dirty." I would have chosen "earthy" as a descriptor and have had far earthier wines at that. In fact, the Pomerol was my favorite of the evening and the only one I may purchase. (We have 30 days to purchase at a discounted price for society members. Still rather high for my budget at $32.25 a bottle.)
The sommelier spoke about the Old World wines having more tannins but the Pomerol was very well balanced IMHO. It was less dense and a fainter color than the Northstar Merlot. Both wines had about 75% Merlot; the Pomerol also has Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. The Pomerol was leggy on the sides of the glasses. The Northstar was jammy and showed some definite oak influence, both of which helped me select it as the New World example.

Pairing #3 Syrah
M. Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage "La Petite Ruche", 2004, Northern Rhone, France
Two Hands Shiraz "Gnarly Dudes" 2005, Barossa Valley, South Australia

The Australian Shiraz had more finish, was darker and denser and leggy on the glass. Neither sample had the polish and balance of tannin, fruit, acid, complexity that distinguishes the best Syrah for me.

We had platters of fruit and cheese, crackers, and chewy bread with nice herbed olive oil to accompany our tasting. I thought the Pomerol went nicely with some of the cheeses while the Northstar did not.

$15 for the tasting and we received copious material on the grapes and wines with regional maps of the Rhone Valley, etc.

The April meeting will feature Spanish wines.
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by Randy Buckner » Thu Mar 29, 2007 3:17 pm

I just visited Two Hands on Tuesday. The 2006 in barrel is very nice, as is the fruit quality coming into the winery this year, despite the drought and significantly reduced crop size.
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by Rahsaan » Thu Mar 29, 2007 5:19 pm

JC (NC) wrote:Josmeyer Riesling "Le Dragon" 2001


What is this "dragon" bottling?

A vineyard? A cuvee?
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by Bill Buitenhuys » Thu Mar 29, 2007 5:27 pm

What is this "dragon" bottling?
I believe this is made from old vine Herrenweg.

JC, is it showing any signs of maturing yet?
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by JC (NC) » Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:11 pm

Yes, I would say it is showing some development. I have very limited experience with Riesling from Alsace but it did not strike me as a baby.
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by RichardAtkinson » Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:17 pm

This is almost what Dina and I are hosting for the November 07 American Wine Society / Houston Chapter meeting at our digs. The only exception being that it will be completely blind.

Let everyone guess at varietal / Old World, New World / Country of origin etc.. Ought to be fun.

richard
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by JC (NC) » Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:42 pm

From Terlatowines website regarding Josmeyer "Le Dragon":

Legend has it that a dragon made its home in a cave on a steeply sloping hill in the Alsace vineyard of Turckheim. The dragon terrorized all that surrounded its home, prompting the sun to rise up in battle and conquer the beast. Upon its death, the dragon breathed its last fiery breath on the area in front of its cave. To this day, it is said that the two phenomena that exist in the Drachenloch, or Dragon Hole, do so because of this dragon and its demise. The vineyard maintains “fiery” temperatures, nearly 9°F warmer than neighboring vineyards, and is surrounded by hundreds or orchids, said to be giving thanks to their victor, the sun. The wines of the Artist Series are blends from exceptional plots from the famous “lieux-dits” (literally named sites) Herrenweg de Wintzenheim and Herrenweg de Turckheim. The grapes are selectively handpicked by “tris” (repeated pickings) from the most outstanding “Graves” soil of Alsace, producing wines that are sensual, elegant and charming. The wines develop young, while still maintaining their aptitude for graceful aging. The Artist Series wines reach a new level of complexity and varietal expression
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by Rahsaan » Thu Mar 29, 2007 6:52 pm

Bill Buitenhuys wrote:
What is this "dragon" bottling?
I believe this is made from old vine Herrenweg.


Nice. I've never seen it. But then I don't see enough Josemeyer..
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by ClarkDGigHbr » Fri Mar 30, 2007 12:37 am

JC, I like this tasting approach; a very healthy way to taste the differences first hand.

As to the term dirty, I have friends that use it rather affectionately, because they strongly favor old world wines. Another friend of mine will comment that a wine has good dirt. Nothing nasty or negative here.

-- Clark
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by JC (NC) » Fri Mar 30, 2007 9:31 am

The wine shop owner was not using "dirty" in a negative way either but the distributor of the wines was a little taken aback by her description. I still prefer "earthy" but to each his own. I do refer to Rutherford "dust" in a tasting note occasionally or a "loamy" quality.
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by Dale Williams » Fri Mar 30, 2007 9:42 am

I can see "good dirt", but dirty to me is definitely pejorative, and I've never heard it used as a positive descriptor. Earthy and dirty are quite different. I personally certainly enjoy plenty of wines with a little brett that would make the faculty at UC-Davis recoil in horror, but dirty implies real contamination.
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Re: WTN: Old World Wines vs. New World Wines

by ClarkDGigHbr » Fri Mar 30, 2007 8:00 pm

Dale Williams wrote:I can see "good dirt", but dirty to me is definitely pejorative, and I've never heard it used as a positive descriptor. Earthy and dirty are quite different. I personally certainly enjoy plenty of wines with a little brett that would make the faculty at UC-Davis recoil in horror, but dirty implies real contamination.


You just have to know your audience. One of my good friends walks into our local wine shop and asks the owner "I'm looking for a wine that's dirty. What's new?" We both know what she is referring to.

On the other hand, I've read her husdand's tasting notes. [They belong to our regular tasting group.] If a wine isn't dirty, he calls it soda pop. Now that is a definite pejorative.

-- Clark

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