WTN: 2005 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano DOCG Tuscany Italy.

2005 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano DOCG Tuscany Italy. 13% alcohol. Chambers Street; Lyle/Asimov bottle. $15.99. http://www.morisfarms.it/ Imported by Polaner Selections, Mount Kisco, NY. http://208.56.36.165/

Deep red color, deep hue, rustic aromas of berries, earth and mushrooms, very good tastes of berries, earth and spice, medium to full mouth feel, very smooth, good balance of firm acidity and tannins, long, rather single note finish of primarily berries and bit of earth. A very nice food wine with a simple pasta and tomato meat sauce. 3*+.

Luca Mazzoleni in August 1999: "I liked very much Morisfarms' Morellino di Scansano Riserva 1997 (terrific stuff for that price !), a sort of little-brother of AVVOLTORE." I tasted Morellino di Scansano wines from other makers couple of times at large tasting events over the next two years, but the wines weren't very impressive -- thin and acidic according to my notes. One of the great benefits of the Lyle/Asimov bottles was the hope I would learn something new -- this bottle showed me that Lucca was right eight years ago, and that I should have tried harder to follow up on his suggestion. This was a very nice wine at the price point, and will encourage me to find the Riserva. Thanks Luca.

Regards, Bob

Notes:

Polaner: Morisfarms, a family-owned operation still run by the Parentini family (originally from Moorish Spain who moved to Italy), is situated in the Tuscan town of Massa Marittima. The family's vineyards cover 420 hectares in Massa Marittima, of which 30 hectares have vines that are at least 35-years-old. The vines include large plots of Sangiovese and Trebbiano. The family also owns some 56 hectares of a vineyard in Morellino di Scansano called Poggio la Mozza. Twenty of these hectares have vines that are older than 30 years in age. The vineyard is a hilly site approximately 100 meters above sea level where the family grows mainly Sangiovese, along with experimental plots of Merlot, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Winery notes on the 2006, I don't see the 2005 notes on the site:
Area of Production: Locality Poggio la Mozza
Soil: Sandy original sea-bed Slightly acidic
Exposition: North West
Vines: 90 % Sangiovese, 10 % Merlot and Syrah [Polaner gives 90% Sangiovese, 10% Local Varieties for the 2005 vintage.]
Yield per hectare: 9000 kilo of grapes
Total Acidity in Tartaric Acid: g/l 5,00
Volatile Acidity in Vinegar Acid: g/l 0,51
PH: 3,68
Dry Extract: 30,60
Alcool per volume: % vol. 13,68

Bullz Eye Reviews: You may never have had a Morellino di Scansano (maw-reh-LEE-noh dee skahn-SAH-noh), but if you're a fan of Chianti, this is a wine you should try. Morellino is a grape that is technically a strain of Sanvgiovese (call it a "kissing cousin"), which is the main grape in Chianti. Chianti is a wine area inside the Italian region of Tuscany; Scansano is a village situated on a mountain ridge in the heart of Maremma, which is an area in the southernmost part of Tuscany -- way, way south of Chianti, south of Montalcino, and about 20 miles east of the Tyrrhenian Sea. Its hot weather, valley views, and proximity to the coast and beaches make it more famous to tourists as a vacation spot than wine country. However, those same factors make it an ideal place for vineyards, and there's no doubt that serious wines are coming out of this popular summer getaway.

Interesting wines begin with grapes. Long, hot growing seasons (such as those that occur in Scansano) allow grapes to fully ripen with high sugar levels and in turn produce wines rich in fruit and solid in structure. In other words: the hotter, the better. When you consider that very good wines come from Chianti in the north of Tuscany, and deeper, richer wines come from the more southern town of Montalcino, you can begin to understand the potential of vines grown in Scansano -- the deep, deep south. And the potential is already beginning to be realized, as some of the top Chianti and "Super Tuscan" producers are buying into the area with plans to bottle the next great cult wines. http://www.bullz-eye.com/wine_reviews/

[Robin Garr]

2005 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano

Thanks, Bob! I've got this one in the tasting queue, waiting to rest up a bit after its trip from Chambers Street. Looking forward to it, particularly since, ever since my judging trip to Siena last fall, I've been particularly interested in some of the "other," less-familiar Tuscan DOCs like Morellino and Montefalco.

Any idea, Oh King of Wine Trivia, how this property came by its rather English-sounding moniker?

I don't know the history of the name, Robin. Lucca, others and I had a long discussion on this farm back in 1999 when I was enchanted with the Avvoltore. My vague memory is that Lucca or one of the participants said "Moris" wasn't English -- that would have been "Morris", but I didn't make a note in my wine diary at the time of the actual derivation.

Their website supports the argument to an extent: "The Moris family which has dedicated itself for generations to agriculture and has over the years increased their interest and specialization in viticulture. Due to this investment of interest, attention and ambition, they have been rewarded with the utmost of satisfaction."

I may have the answer in another file -- if it kicks up, I'll revert.

Please post your tasting note when this wine works its way up the queue -- I'd love to see what your opinion is.

Regards, Bob

Robin, I found a couple of notes in my file.

The historic estate of Caterina Moris and her husband Adolfo Parentini consists of 76 hectares between two farms: Fattoria Poggetti in Massa Marittima where they produce ‘Monteregio’ and their SuperTuscan ‘Avvoltore’, and further south along the coast ‘Poggio La Mozza’ where they produce their Morellino di Scansano. [Source not recorded.]

Adolfo has spent the last decade experimenting with different varieties and clones in the vineyard, and come to the conclusion that Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon are the best varieties for his terroir and that high density planting is the way forward. With the Avvoltore vineyard, the vines are planted to 5,200 per hectare which, for the region, is very high.

This encourages the vines to compete with each other and for the roots to delve deeper into the soil. The wines at Moris Farms are certainly terroir driven. Avvoltore itself is planted on a gentle slope with a terroir of clay and sand, and a significant amount of gravel, giving a soil with excellent natural drainage and exposure.

According to another source -- a wine shop in Wales now offline -- the farms are owned by Caterina Moris and her family (who were originally from Spain)

Red Back Wines -- "The family Moris immigrated into Italy from Spain during the year 1700. Land owners and of a noble heritage, the family set out to create a new lifestyle along the Mediterranean Coastal area of Tuscany. Today the estate holds more than 500 hectares of which 100 are planted under vine. Concentration is focused on Sangiovese with a small percentage dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The estate is under the cautious eye of Dr. Adolfo Parentini, husband of Caterina Moris and the estate is today considered by many as one of the top producers in this now famous area known as the Maremma. Avvoltore, their top wine, was once a well kept secret. Today, world renowned, it still bears the signature of Caterina's father, a true pioneer and the foundation from which this estate was built."

"Moris" doesn't sound Spanish to my ear, though.

So, to be honest, I sure don't know the derivation of the name.

Regards, Bob

2005 Moris Farms Morellino di Scansano

Thanks, Bob! I've got this one in the tasting queue, waiting to rest up a bit after its trip from Chambers Street. Looking forward to it, particularly since, ever since my judging trip to Siena last fall, I've been particularly interested in some of the "other," less-familiar Tuscan DOCs like Morellino and Montefalco.

Any idea, Oh King of Wine Trivia, how this property came by its rather English-sounding moniker?

Did I hear you say "Montefalco"???? I am heading to NYC to Chambers Street tomorrow afternoon and may grab a bottle of Rosso di Montefalco to share with the NYC crowd at our offline. Every time I go back to Umbria I try to have as many different producers as possible and all of the wines differ from each other drastically according to my palate. I am least favorite when they throw in too much Cabernet in the blend. My favorite from my last trip in January was Arquata Adanti as I reported in January.

http://www.wineloverspage.com/forum/vil ... ght=adanti

I have had this Morris Farms in Spoleto 2 years ago; it was fine but not my favorite Morellino. Val delle Rose has been great, but the 2003 is soooooo out of wack because of the hot summer.

Thank you Bob. I will try the Morellino. While shopping for it, are there any other smooth reds that you reccomend I should keep ane eye on?

regards,

Tony

Robin, I found one of my speculations from 1999 -- which seems to have some validity based on how common the name Moris is and has been in Tuscany for at least 300 years. [I ran the name Moris and Tuscany through Google Books and found many hits for Moris, in Pisa, especially, and in some botanical texts.]

"Moris" may mean "Moor". The Spanish word 'Moriscoes" means Moors who converted to Christianity and who remained in Spain after the conquest of Moorish Granada. This family may have moved to Tuscany in 1700; I've found one guide book that says the Moris Farms name alludes to a Moorish heritage.

The Polaner site has a sentence to the same effect: "Morisfarms, a family-owned operation still run by the Parentini family (originally from Moorish Spain who moved to Italy), is situated in the Tuscan town of Massa Marittima."

Not nailed down, yet, but a good working hypothesis. The major problem I have is that the Spanish expulsion occured in 1609-14. I suppose the family might have moved out of Spain to somewhere else, before moving to Tuscany in 1700.

Regards, Bob

[Robin Garr]

Not nailed down, yet, but a good working hypothesis.

Thanks, Bob! The part that makes me most curious, though, and that doesn't seem to be addressed by any of this, is why they chose the English word "Farms."

Yeah, that and the 80 year gap mentioned in our crossing posts. Could the family have moved to England and then to Tuscany?

Maybe I'll drop a line to the winery -- I've loved their main wine for many years and they may take pity on me.

Regards, Bob

Here's the email I sent off; let's see if they respond. Regards, Bob

I've loved your wines ever since starting to drink wine seriously in 1995. Some great meals were enhanced by great wine from Moris Farms.

In any event, I'm fascinated with the name "Moris Farms". I suppose the "Moris" comes from the Moorish heritage of the family, but I may be wrong on that point.

In addition, I wonder about the word "Farm" -- is there an English part of the history?

I would love to know how you chose the name of the winery -- what is the history of the name?

Hi Robin -- here's the charming reply to my email -- I'll certainly try to attend their event in fall. "Moris" is well explained, but "Farms"? -- the creator lived in San Francisco!

I've also appended my first serious tasting note on their wines, together with a addenda posted by Luca at the time. The folks at MorisFarms might enjoy that bit of WLDG history as well.

Thanks for encouraging me to embark on yet another wine adventure!

Regards, Bob

Dear Mr Ross,

thank you very much for your email.
I am Giulio Parentini and my mother is Caterina Moris, so I am small part of Morisfarms estate.
I take care principally of the export.

Morisfarms is a family company owned by 3 brothers and 3 sisters.

You are right: Moris is a spanish last name, we have just 1 R, not 2 like several british surname.

We came from Spain 250 years ago and now we live in Tuscany and we work the land (cereal, olive trees, forest and vines!!!) since generations.

In 1971 we bought another estate south Grosseto (where we produce Morellino di Scansano DOC wines), so my grand father gave the property to the children.

My uncle, who lives in San Fransisco, decided to create the name "Morisfarms" with the S at the end because now we have 2 different estates.

We are a company with a strange name, but I can assure you that we feel italian and we produce maremma's wines with passion!!!
No multinational.

If you are interested we will make a visit in November in New York.
At the beginning of November, for 1 week we will have tasting in all the best restaurants of New York with italian chefs who are going to cook for us.
My father will be there, I can attend just the last 2 dinners.
Here you can have more informations regarding the event: http://www.maremmawineandfood.com

10 wines producers, 5 Maremma chefs, 5 New York restaurant.

Kind regards,

My tasting note, and Lucca's response:

8/29/99 Sun 1997 Moris Farms Avvoltore Maremma IGT Estate Bottled Tuscany Italy. 13.5% alcohol; $40 at Wine Ventures, Tenafly, NJ. Strongly recommended by WLDG contributor Craig McManus. Blend of 75% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah. According to the label, the grapes are grown on selected vineyards on “Poggio Avvoltore”, the southern Tuscan estate of Morisfarms. Aged for 12 months in French barriques. Imported by European Cellars Direct, New York, NY.

Deep purple color, almost black; deep hue; sweet aroma of red fruits and berries, especially raspberry; intense tastes of red fruit, spice and cherries, with an impression of sweetness – but it certainly isn’t sweet; slightly acidic with mellow tannins, beautifully balanced; full mouth feel, smooth as silk; long, lingering, complex finish with spice, fruit, mushroom and earthen notes. Matched beautifully with cold vegetable pasta and buttermilk soup, and was very enjoyable while sipping and watching a video later. Exceptional wine. 5*. Posted on WLDG August 29.

P92. $40. From one of southern Tuscany’s most superb estates, this blend of 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, 75% Sangiovese and 5% Syrah is aged for 12 months in French oak casks. Sadly, there are only 200 cases produced, but readers lucky enough to latch onto a bottle or two are in for a spectacular drinking experience. The wine’s opaque purple color is followed by a sweet nose of minerals, white truffles, black raspberries and cherry jam. Massively flavored, with full body, a silky texture and a touch of spice and tar in the long convincing finish. It should drink well for at least a decade.

Response: L. Mazzoleni: Wine of the Year at Vinitaly 1999

Hi Bob,
I tasted this wine two times this year.
First time in April 1999 at Vinitaly, when the wine was just released on the Italian market, and was immediately awarded as "Wine of the Year 1999": you are COMPLETELY right, saying the wine can smell and taste "sweet". In April it WAS sweet (exaggerated scents of sweet violets, so sweet that it remembers quince-jam): this is the philosophy of Morisfarms' winemaker (Sangiovese is harvested a bit over-ripe).
Actually if I remember well, the blend should be 75 Sangiovese 20 Syrah and 5 Cabernet Sauvignon in fact I asked to the winemaker why do they use only 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and so much Syrah. I would have inverted the percentage, in order to balance in a better way the natural floral sweetness of an over-ripe Sangiovese.
He replied this was their philosophy and that the wine would highly improve also with few months of cellaring.
In fact, the second time I tasted Avvoltore 97 (in vertical with Avvoltore 95), last July, it was more balanced (I mean, still ultra-sweet violet scents, with the rest of fruit and spices you perfectly described in your TN).
did not like Avvoltore neither the second time I tasted it, unless I admit this wine is incredibly full-bodied, a titan, a giant, too big to drink now (especially in the mouth), revealing remarkable aging potential. I liked very much Morisfarms' Morellino di Scansano Riserva 1997 (terrific stuff for that price !), a sort of little-brother of AVVOLTORE. Luca

Hi Tony,

Instead of suggesting wines, let me suggest a couple of approaches that I followed several years ago when I first started drinking wine and studying it seriously.

First, get a copy of Great Wine Made Simple: Straight Talk from a Master Sommelier, by Andrea Immer (now using the name "Andrea Robinson"). Robinson has a very useful approach to learning about wine. I've recommended the book for beginners for years, and suggested that more experienced winelovers do the exercises every three to six months. They are delightful, and I like the approach so much that I took a three day intensive course taught by her on the same principles last fall.

Second, make a relationship with a good wine retailer -- I'm not sure how to do that in Canada but we have a number of very knowledgeable Canadian posters on WLDG who can help. Get suggestions for what styles of wines you would like to taste, and then go back and report on whether you liked their reccos or not.

I was lucky enough to start out that way years ago, and I'm still following the approach. Here's a draft of a post I'm working on which describes the approach in more detail.

Last April, Eric Asimov posted an intriguing entry on "The Pour": People ask me, more often than any other question by far, where to go to learn about wine. Usually I tell them to go home. No kidding. The best place to learn about wine is at home, particularly if you stop off at a good wine shop on the way. What I'm about to propose is a do-it-yourself method that has a lot to offer to just about anybody who loves wine, or wants to learn about it. In fact, if you'll join in with me, we will take this home wine class together and be the better for it."

The essence of Asimov's proposal was to buy a mixed case of six whites and six reds from a wine shop, cost limit $250, and then whenever the mood strikes "open one of the bottles with dinner. This is important. You want to drink a wine with food for the full experience." Asimov choose two shops, including one of my personal favorites, Chambers Street Wines in New York City. He had met Lyle Fass, and enjoyed talking with him. Fass supplied Asimov with a mixed case, and Asimov found the experience so interesting that he recently repeated the experiment.

Regards, Bob

I have been drinking Moris Farms Avvoltore Maremma Toscana IGT for many years as a result of a recommendation from a nice man who sells wine in New York and occassionaly puts threads here. He asked me why would I buy a name Super Tuscan when I can buy six of these for the same price. I have yet to find an argument.

Not nailed down, yet, but a good working hypothesis.

Thanks, Bob! The part that makes me most curious, though, and that doesn't seem to be addressed by any of this, is why they chose the English word "Farms."

Using French or Italian words is trendy here, but the use of English words in Italy is a mania. The big Italian wine fair, for example, is called 'Vinitaly,' which is sort of like a big US wine fair being called 'StatiUnitiWine.' One of the regional pavilions (Lombardy, I think) was called 'Trendy Oggi, Big Domani.' The big Barbera conference every year is called 'Barbera Meeting,' et cetera.

[Robin Garr]

The big Italian wine fair, for example, is called 'Vinitaly,'

Who knew? Were you at Vinitaly, Oliver? I wish I had known ... would have liked to look you up.

Every year, Robin; give me a call next time you're there, 339/280.4390 in Italy.