WTN: An Italian Syrah

Act 1; In Alko:

Me: "Do you have anything interesting from N. Rhone?"

The only Alko shopkeeper who understands wines: "No!" [laughs wickedly]

Me: "Bummer. I'll go and open up a Texier again - they are disappearing at an alarming rate."

Alko-man: "I do have an Italian, you would like, though."

Me: "Spoofy, and horribly oaky and nasty and vile?"

A-m: "No. It tastes like Syrah."

Me: " ' " (=the grapheme for the Arabic letter " 'ayin " - a glottal stop, which here signifies surprise and ensuing speechlessness)

A-m: "Seriously - it is tart and fruitless and earthy. You'll love it."


Act 2: At home over a chunk of meat braised in red wine:
TN: Tenimenti Luigi d'Alessandro Cortona Syrah 2004 13,5% c.18€

Well, A-m was right, it is pretty nice. Red berried and earthy with pure Syrah fruit - but also a bit more oak that he let on, but not annoying amounts. The palate is nicely structured with rather youthful tannins, moderate acidity and lovely, true Syrah fruit. I have a recollection of tasting their Bosco and I didn't like that, but this basic Syrah seems very fair indeed and very true to the grape and very food friendly. A pity the price is IMO a bit on high for the quality (very like the Texier Brézème and that costs a fraction of this). Buy again? At this price, I'll try not to, but I have little will power so I guess I'll go through one or two over the summer.

-O-

(singing)

Que SYRAH, SYRAH...! Whatever will be, will be.....! The future's not ours to see, que SYRAH, SYRAAAH!!!

Sorry... just felt a song come to me with your post!

I suspect Syrah could do quite nicely in Italy, especially after tasting a stunning Isole e Olena 1994 Syrah a few weeks ago. Reassuringly the wine shouted Italy louder than it shouted Syrah (or Shiraz).

regards

Ian

I have a Ciacci Fabius Syrah to try. Probably won't get to it until late summer or fall but I am fond of the Ciacci Ateo (non-traditional blended red) so have high hopes.

Syrah seems to be all the rage in Sicily now. Warmer region than Tuscany to be sure, but thankfully, the few Sicilian samples I've tried don't seem to be hewing to the "Shiraz" model.

Speaking just for myself, the interesting thing about Italy is the hundreds of indigenous varieties; my sense is that there is a movement in Italy towards rescuing and promoting these varieties, rather than exotics like Syrah.

That said, Isole e Olena has made a very nice Syrah in the past.

Speaking just for myself, the interesting thing about Italy is the hundreds of indigenous varieties; my sense is that there is a movement in Italy towards rescuing and promoting these varieties, rather than exotics like Syrah.

That said, Isole e Olena has made a very nice Syrah in the past.

Depends on which producers you're looking at and what you're drinking from Sicily, Oliver.

For every grower/producer trying to champion the autochthonous (hey, I just love spelling that word) there is another (or two or three) busily cultivating and adding syrah to the blend.

I personally think syrah would be a good grape in Sicily..well, certain parts...as it is a variety that will do fairly well in different climes. But, like you, I wish the indigenous grapes could and would be championed.

Speaking just for myself, the interesting thing about Italy is the hundreds of indigenous varieties; my sense is that there is a movement in Italy towards rescuing and promoting these varieties, rather than exotics like Syrah.

That said, Isole e Olena has made a very nice Syrah in the past.

Yes - I second Oliver! One cannot get bored in Italy with all the numerous varieties. On my last trip to Umbria I had a Trebbiano Spoletino sparkling wine - first time I saw this after going to the region for 24 years! Along with the numerous varieties is the diversity in style and oak treatment. I tend not to drink Italian Syrahs just because I am usually going nuts over the local sangiovese and sagrantino varieties. I have had Sicilian syrahs and agree that it is the place to look for.

So many wines, so little time for this lifetime!!!!

Depends on which producers you're looking at and what you're drinking from Sicily, Oliver.

For every grower/producer trying to champion the autochthonous (hey, I just love spelling that word) there is another (or two or three) busily cultivating and adding syrah to the blend.

I personally think syrah would be a good grape in Sicily..well, certain parts...as it is a variety that will do fairly well in different climes. But, like you, I wish the indigenous grapes could and would be championed.

The time lag in planting vines means such ships turn very slowly, Hoke, but I would say that it's the other way 'round, at least from what I saw at the Sicily pavilion at Vinitaly. Planeta was the obvious example of the 'Australian-Chardonnay-grown-in-Sicily' school, but that project was started in a very different climate.

I could be projecting what I think should happen onto what is in fact happening, but I don't think so.

Speaking just for myself, the interesting thing about Italy is the hundreds of indigenous varieties; my sense is that there is a movement in Italy towards rescuing and promoting these varieties, rather than exotics like Syrah.

.

That, too, is what excites me more than anything from Italy. And then see what some of those varieties can do in Calif as well.
Tom

I'm usually a bit of a purist in earthy matters, but I still liked this. It was much like a cheaper but well made N. Rhone.

-o-(trying for once not to be too dogmatic)