FATTORIA DI FELSINA BERADENGA CHIANTI CLASSICO 1999
This is the basic Chianti Classico (not Riserva). Of course it is neither Rancia nor Fontalloro but, nevertheless, I found it a bit disappointing compared with my memories of 1996, 1997 and 1998 particularly in view of the stellar reputation of the vintage.
C: Medium deep and still youthful with no hints of bricking at the edges. (Cork shows no ullage but is stained up to two-thirds of its length.) N: Promises dark fruit with some depth of body but initially disfigured by a stink of not very fresh eggs (reduction or sulphur?); towards the end of the bottle the stink had mostly disappeared. P: After the promise of the nose, disconcertingly lightweight and lacking in depth but showing nicely refreshing bright fruit and notable minerality with the authentic Chianti tang. Good length and elegance and no longer tight like most younger Felsina. Enjoyable but I was expecting more.
Of course the basic 1996 was particularly good because it benefited from no Rancia nor Fontalloro having been made that year. However in 1997 and 1998 both the top cuvées were made, yet I recall the basic CC in both years as having been deeper than this. 2000, 2001 and 2004 are still waiting in my cellar; I am curious to taste how they turn out after similar ageing.