Popped into a new wine shop in the Kumeu district of Auckland, New Zealand, an area that is more known for its wineries than the calibre of its wine shops. Owner Chris Carrad, a Brit (also a former writer for Wine & Spirit Magazine and a former manager of an Oddbins shop) saw a gap in the market for an upmarket wine shop so last year he opened the Wine Circle. As well as a large local and international selection of wines, he has an amazing range of malt whiskies, tequilas, sakes and beers from just about everywhere. He is importing some wines directly, including a full range from the following labels - these are the wines I tasted when I called in yesterday.
Agusti Torello Mata Riserva Cava 2004 - Penedes, Spain
With hints of coconut on the nose this crisp, fresh, high acid fizz has slightly musky grapey flavours, a salty tang, exotic fruits like feijoa, good length and mouthfeel. There's also a bready undercurrent from the yeast lees and it's quite dry - I imagine this would be perfect on a hot summers day. Made from 40% Macabeo, 25% Xarel-lo and 35% Parellada. NZ$26.90.
Devils Rock Riesling 2005 - Pfalz, Germany
Pale straw. Lemon and lime with a slight oiliness like that you get from skins of citrus, a spicy zest tang, an earthy undercurrent and a mellow, cheesy-apple character on the finish. It's off dry and fruity with hints of tropical fruit amongst the citrus with acidity keeping the wine crisp. An oily 'kero' character is starting to kick in, making it seem like the wine is on the point of turning from young and fresh to having more secondary complex notes. Not a classic German Riesling, but designed as a crowd pleaser and packaged as such. Screwcap closure. 12.5% alc. NZ$14.90.
Grans-Fassian QbA Riesling 2003
Pale straw. Shy on the nose but bright and tangy to the taste with a spicy salinity underpinning grapey, grape-musk flavours Again that earthy undercurrent and a long, mellow finish with hints of just-ripe apricot and mandarin emerging. Bright, tangy and refreshing, this is more what I expect from German Riesling and it is stylish at the price. 10.5% alc. NZ$19.90. Cork closure.
Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2005
Rich lemon gold. Spicy cedar on the nose and a big, rich, oily, seasoned oak palate. A powerful wine with a hint of salinity, ripe lush stonefruit and a maltiness to the finish. The wine was a bit cold and I would have loved to have seen it in a big glass. I would have liked to have seen it open up more because it hinted of butterscotch and figs and all sorts of interesting nuances behind the oak. One for lovers of the powerful Chardonnay style. 13.5% alc. $37.90. Cork.
Au Bon Climat Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2005
"La Bauge Au-dessus"
Deep black-garnet red with ruby hues. The aroma is immediately seductive with its savoury, earthy, black cherry scents. In the mouth it's spicy, savoury and earthy with black cherry, plums, spice, leather and a lovely flourish of red fruits and rose petals on the finish. It's a beautifully structured pinot noir, full-bodied and warm with velvety tannins, there's a slight salinity as well and the wine has great length. Evidently this is the entry level pinot noir in the ABC range, but I was mesmerised with its beauty and class. All I could say was 'Wow'. It's 13.5% alcohol and in comes in 375ml (NZ$29.90) as well as 750ml ($53.90) bottles. I tasted from a 357ml. Will look forward to putting this in a line-up of NZ pinots noirs sometime.
Domaine Viret Solstice IV 2004
Vin de Table de France
Deep garnet-black red, shiny in appearance. Dark, earthy, almost gamey aromas. Savoury to the taste with leather and tar, blackberry and strawberry fruit, hints of liquorice and despite the upfront grippy, gravelly tannins, the long savoury finish is rather juicy and clean. Medium-bodied in weight, it is made from Mourvèdre, Merlot, Cabernet-Sauvignon, Caladoc, Grenache and Carignan. Chris, the wine shop owner, calls this a French Stew, and it would be a mighty fine accompaniment to a gamey stew, that's for sure. This wine has no preservatives added, and is unfiltered and unfined. NZ$19.90. Cork.
Cheers,
Sue