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WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

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Kyrstyn Kralovec

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WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Kyrstyn Kralovec » Wed Jun 27, 2007 10:52 am

Last night I attended a tasting by Giramondo Wine Adventures, the theme of which was “Icon Wines of the Mediterranean”. I’m quickly becoming a fan of this organization; the attendance to most events is kept to a relatively small number, the wines are always interesting and of decent quality, there is a nice selection of cheeses served during the tastings and then a small meal served afterwards with whatever wine is left over. Last night’s tasting was limited to 12 attendees, and cost $120. Any initial apprehension I had about spending that much money quickly dissapted with the experience of the first wine…I knew we were in for a really nice ride:

2001 Chapoutier Ermitage le Pavillon: Bold aromas of game, cassis, farm and wood. Black fruit held up by beautiful silky smooth tannins. Great finish and a lingering aftertaste. Not sure what term wine geeks use to mean “perfect”, but this was it. Laurent (the president and host of these events) said he thought this could benefit by another 2-3 years, but I’m glad not to wait! ($147)

1998 Gaja Barbaresco: Spicy fruit, smoke and tar to start, this later evolved some licorice properties. Perfectly balanced tannins and acidity and clean, black fruit on the palate. Again, I could find no fault with this wine. I also learned something that explained some angst I'd experienced w/ nebbiolo. The first nebbiolo I'd ever tasted blew me away and was actually the wine that sparked this whole love affair with wine for me, but since then I'd been sadly dissappointed by most that I've tasted. Laurent explained to us that nebbiolo is very much like pinot noir (fickle and finicky and prone to mediocrity under anything but the best of conditions) and that like burgundy is one of those wines that may require a lot of frog kissing before you find the odd prince. Whether this is true or not, it certainly fits in with my personal experience with Burgundies and Peidmonts. ($175)

2001 Sassicaia Tenuta San Guido: There was a very interesting sulfur quality to the nose on this. I don’t usually appreciate that in my wines, but this smelled more like a recently extinquished match than the rotten-egg smell that I associate w/ sulfur. The oak was evident, and there were also underlying tar and vegetal aromas. The vegetal notes carried over onto the palate as bell pepper. The initial body on this was much lighter than I had expected; the tannins were very upfront as was the acidity and I didn’t feel they were as well integrated as I would have expected from a wine that everyone at the table had been chomping at the bit for. However, this changed as time went on, and the food definitely improved the overall impression for me. Although under normal circumstances I would have been gaga over this wine, the others of the night were so sublime that I’m afraid I’ll have to put this one as my “least favorite” of the night. ($175)

2004 Flor de Pingus: Coffee, black currant, anise, cedar and soft candied fruit. As in the Chapoutier, the tannins were incredibly silky. Very full bodied, there was a strange but pleasing finish of incense, and the coffee scent intensified after about 20 minutes to an almost unbelievable level. It was very pleasant, but if you had your eyes closed you might think you were smelling a hazelnut latte from Starbucks. ($105)

2001 Cims de Porrera: I was excited to try this because I’ve read such good things about Priorat but hadn’t yet had the opportunity to taste any. Nice scents of prune, stewed fruit, iron, and earth. The mouthfeel on this blew me away…smooth, round & full w/ moderate tannins and a really looooong aftertaste. My WOTN (I think…the next one rocked, too). (Eur70)

2003 Le Clos des Papes: My impressions were of strong vegetal, farm, game & hay; the others pointed out the spicy herbal (thyme) notes as well as some dust. Very powerful structure, I now understand the buzz surrounding CdP (I had tried one in the past that had not had sufficient time to open up). This had the longest finish of any wine I’ve tried. Beautiful. ($120)

It was nice to be able to sample these wines, since they’re obviously not priced to where the average person will be purchasing them by the bottle (the prices quoted are from MacArthur Beverage). Although I must admit it’s tempting. I’ll have to remember to ask Santa :wink:
Last edited by Kyrstyn Kralovec on Wed Jun 27, 2007 1:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Marc D » Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:31 pm

Nice notes, K. Those are some interesting wines that could be called benchmarks for their areas.

The price for the tasting seems reasonable, to taste wines of that caliber.
Those wines you tried are all built for aging, and come from places where they should change and develop a lot of complexity with bottle aging.

To give one example, in Livingstone-Learmonth's "Wines of the Northern Rhone", he predicts the Le Pavillon Hermitage to reach a peak drinking window after 2008 and last until somewhere between 2023 and 2027!

The price for the Clos des Papes seems high to me, even with wine inflation and the poor dollar to euro exchange. I know 2003 was a wacky hot year where there wasn't a lot of wine made, but you can still find older vintages for around $60.


I enjoyed reading your impressions, thanks for posting.

Best,
Marc
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Re: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Jenise » Wed Jun 27, 2007 12:46 pm

Echoing what Marc said, K, great notes. And a neccessary experience--you need to calibrate your tastes with those great, great wines so that you can recognize and appreciate the gems we all hope to find for so much less.
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Ian Sutton » Wed Jun 27, 2007 4:33 pm

I dunno - with Nebbiolo I've got a fairly decent success rate, but do like a bit of maturity on them (old toads as it were :wink: ). Personal palate preference I reckon, as there's aspects I get in Nebbiolo I don't get from other wines. I suspect Burg nuts would say the same thing.

That said, as I've not tasted Gaja, perhaps I'm still missing the great Nebbiolo experience?

What's your view on tasting a number of $$$$'y wines together? Does it lessen their impact or just make for a truly memorable evening?

regards

Ian
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Kyrstyn Kralovec » Wed Jun 27, 2007 4:49 pm

Ian Sutton wrote:What's your view on tasting a number of $$$$'y wines together? Does it lessen their impact or just make for a truly memorable evening?

regards

Ian


Ian - normally it does kind of lessen the impact. And with such powerful wines as these I would have expected massive overload that might diminish those that were tasted later. But for some reason this was not the case, and the last wine tasted was every bit as special as the first one. I think the uniqueness of each wine may have contributed to this as well; when you go to say a strict burgundy tasting, or all Rhone or something like that, the similarities can add to the sense of overload.
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by James Roscoe » Wed Jun 27, 2007 8:27 pm

Great notes. Where did you hear about this tasting?

Kay, will you be at the French embassy Saturday? I am volunteering for the afternoon session.
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by JoePerry » Wed Jun 27, 2007 10:00 pm

K Story wrote:1998 Gaja Barbaresco: Spicy fruit, smoke and tar to start, this later evolved some licorice properties. Perfectly balanced tannins and acidity and clean, black fruit on the palate. Again, I could find no fault with this wine. I also learned something that explained some angst I'd experienced w/ nebbiolo. The first nebbiolo I'd ever tasted blew me away and was actually the wine that sparked this whole love affair with wine for me, but since then I'd been sadly dissappointed by most that I've tasted. Laurent explained to us that nebbiolo is very much like pinot noir (fickle and finicky and prone to mediocrity under anything but the best of conditions) and that like burgundy is one of those wines that may require a lot of frog kissing before you find the odd prince. Whether this is true or not, it certainly fits in with my personal experience with Burgundies and Peidmonts. ($175)


There's a question of style as well. Gaja is not your typical Barbaresco producer. While many claim Gaja is one of the greatest producers and visionaries on Earth, I'm not a fan myself.

I agree that there is a lot of "frog kissing" when dealing with Burgundy, but in the Piedmont it's more about price and finding which style (or both) you enjoy. For example, even in poor vintages you know that wines like G. Mascarello Monprivato are going to be good. In Burgundy, there's no assurance that great producers will even make good wine in good years. I own more red Burgundy than Barolo, even though I generally like Barolo more. The reason for this is that I know (unless TCA strikes) every bottle of Barolo in my cellar is going to be enjoyable (or awesome) while I need to buy more Burgundy because I have no idea what bottles are going to be duds from the start, or just opened on a bad day.

Patience is also rewarded with Piedmont... maybe more so than anywhere else.

Best,
Joe
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Kyrstyn Kralovec » Thu Jun 28, 2007 7:56 am

James Roscoe wrote:Great notes. Where did you hear about this tasting?

Kay, will you be at the French embassy Saturday? I am volunteering for the afternoon session.


James - I found out about these tastings on the French Wine Society's webpage; there was a three-part series on the wines of France, divided up into geographical areas: Alsace & Burgundy, Rhone & Languedoc, Bordeaux & the Loire. Here's a link to their events page if you're interested:

http://www.giramondowine.com/events/

Sorry I'll miss you on Saturday, but it should be a good time (the France vs. the Rest of the World in March was lots of fun).

Joe - thanks for your thoughts. Patience isn't really one of my virtues, and unfortunately I don't have good storage facilities to wait some of the better wines out, but I'll try to learn a bit more about the better producers and do my experimenting with them. What do you think about Bruno Giacosa?
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by JC (NC) » Thu Jun 28, 2007 5:47 pm

I'll be attending the evening France v. the Rest of the World tasting. Looking forward to it.

Love your notes K! You have really developed as a taster/wine writer.
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Jenise » Thu Jun 28, 2007 6:45 pm

You have really developed as a taster/wine writer.


Was thinking the same thing as I read these notes.
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Alejandro Audisio » Thu Jun 28, 2007 8:55 pm

Great notes, thanks for sharing.
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Kyrstyn Kralovec » Fri Jun 29, 2007 9:39 am

JC (NC) wrote:I'll be attending the evening France v. the Rest of the World tasting. Looking forward to it.


JC, how long will you be in the area? Any chance you'd be interested in trying to get a casual, last minute offline going? I haven't met any of the DC crowd yet, might be a good opportunity?

And thanks to you and Jenise for the nice compliment!
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by JC (NC) » Fri Jun 29, 2007 10:09 am

K,
I tried my best to get Friday off work but no go so I'm only staying one night. We are down two staff members currently (from a small staff--one vacancy soon to be filled and one who just retired) and another is on leave this week and someone else next week. From Fayetteville to DC is a lengthy drive to go up on Saturday and return on Sunday. Staying over one more night would have been a big boon. I do have a reservation for brunch at Beacon Bar and Grill Sunday at 12:30 if you would care to join me. In the Beacon Hotel 1615 Rhode Island Ave NW. If you reply to this before 5:00 PM today (Friday) that you can make it, I will change the reservation to two and leave your name on it also. I will be driving back to North Carolina after brunch. If that doesn't work for you, I WILL be back to DC area sometime in the future (maybe late August) and will try to get in on an offline then with more advance planning.
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by Kyrstyn Kralovec » Fri Jun 29, 2007 10:19 am

JC, sounds like a busy weekend! I don't envy you the drive...

Unfortunately I won't be able to have brunch with you on Sunday, but depending on when you're here in August, we'll have to try and get some folks together (I'll be in Abruzzo the last week in August).

Have fun on Saturday, and a safe trip :)
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Re: WTN: A Bevy of Really Nice Wines

by JC (NC) » Fri Jun 29, 2007 10:27 am

Thanks, K.

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