1992 Sullivan, Cabernet Sauvignon Coeur de Vigne:
Funky on the nose with tannic smellies, at first; this opens nicely over an hour to bottle bouquet, depth, complexity, decaying leaves and aged cabernet-fruit smells; round in the mouth (which was completely unexpected as this label often is acidic) with layers of fruit, plenty of secondary development, slightly tight but it seemed to loosen over an hour and good balance – but, as is usual for this house, lots of puckery tannins; medium length, drying finish. Absolutely needs fatty food and when it is served with such fare, the tannins melt away and this becomes a great old cabernet. Still has lots of time left in the cellar and may shed some more of its tannic bite if aged a few years. 13.2% alcohol and about $45 on release; I’d not buy it again but only because it will outlive me; good wine.
1999 Nikolaihof, Riesling Steiner Hund:
Pretty tight at the moment and not showing near the depth and power of previous bottles; pineapple/resin nose with white fruit and floral tones; tight and focused in the mouth while showing bright and stony; excellent length. We were having sausages (chicken) with Swiss chard and I thought this might work – it did but not to the extent I’d hoped. Hold. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Skurnik and about $40 on release; if I could find it at that price, I’d buy it by the case (based on previous showings).
2004 Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords VV:
Very few wines make me giddy; a black pepper, cream soda and citrus nose that is expansive and penetrating; viscosity with great cut, complex and intense flavors follow the nose with all sorts of earthy and fresh herb hints (much more open than last year), incredible acidity, perfect balance; astounding length. If I understand the concept, umami is loosely defined as “the essence of deliciousness;” this wine is packed with it. 12% alcohol, imported by Louis/Dressner and about $13 on release; back up the truck!
(Aside: Being as honest as possible when being also slightly giddy, it is difficult for me to remember a wine (white or red) I’ve enjoyed as much as this one. I’m sure there have been some but they don’t readily pop to mind, particularly with a sip of this on the palate. A truly “great” wine, showing beautifully.)
1997 Edmunds St. John, Syrah Parmelee Hill:
Red/black robe; black-cherry cola and warm plums on the nose; the same on the palate with little development or complexity; medium length finish. Ten years old and I have arrived much too early. Such are the lessons of wine. 14.2% alcohol, price unknown; thanks Steve.
2004 Dom. Leroy, Bourgogne:
Quite complex on the nose with whole cluster character and depth to burn; smooth, precisely balanced and equally complex in the mouth with finesse and layer after layer of depth; long finish. Burgundy to its core and a memorable experience, even in youth, that stokes my love for the magic that can happen on the Côte. 12.5% alcohol, imported by Leroy and about $67; I’d buy it again.
Best, Jim