I very rarely comment about the meals that are served when wineries host wine unveilings and I never publish reviews based on such meals. That is largely for three reasons – first of all because chefs know that wine critics and at least one restaurant and wine critic (me) will be attending, they do their level best to make sure that everyone leaves happy. Second, because these are largely "catered meals", that is to say perhaps with the exception of the main courses, precisely the same meal served to everyone present all at the same time they are unlike the demands that are made during a la carte or ordinary restaurant dining. More than that, because I attend those events primarily in order to taste wines, I rarely stay past the first or second course of those meals.
Yesterday (Friday, 1 August), however, was an exception to the rule. The meal, held after the tasting hosted by the Golan Heights Winery (and reported on at
viewtopic.php?f=29&t=17429 ) took place at Victor Gluger's Chloelys restaurant in Tel Aviv. Truth be told, Victor and his staff outdid themselves, enough in fact that I stayed quite comfortably not even willing to give up the dessert. Further truth, I rather enjoyed the company of those of my colleagues who sat near me at the table as well as that of the Ambassador of Costa Rica who sat next to me on one side, Victor Shoenfeld on the other and Shalom Blayer quite nearby.
As to the dishes offered, each of which I sampled:
First CoursesGravlax with a mustard and Demarara sugar sauce
French anchovies on pain de mei with arugula, feta cheese, and pine nuts
Carpaccio of sea bass with pink Madagascar pepper
Shrimps in anchovy butter with peeled sweet peppers and pumpkin sprouts
Kebab of sea bass with kashkeval cheese and pine nuts
The accompanying wine: Yarden, Blanc de Blanc, 2001 Intermediate Course A cream of goose liver and black truffle soup
The accompanying wine: Yarden ,Chardonnay, Odem Organic Vineyard, 2006 Main CourseLamb ossobucco on a bed of potato puree
The accompanying wine: Yarden, Cabernet Sauvignon, El Rom Vineyard, 2004 Dessert A four part interpretation on the theme of pistachio nuts
The accompanying wine: Yarden, Noble Semillon, 2004God''s in her heaven and all's well on earth!
Best
Rogov