I drove from Killorglin to Dingle in the dark last Wednesday evening, through some hairpin bends between the Slieve mountains and the sea, stunning scenery although nothing could be seen in the dark. There was a moderate westerly breeze blowing in off the Atlantic keeping the temperature in the low 50s and no rain. This is about as far west as you get in Europe, including Portugal. 20km west of Dingle, at about 470 miles west of London, are the Blasket islands which is the last land before Newfoundland. The Dingle area was the location for Ryan's Daughter.
The only decent place to eat in Dingle was Lord Baker's, Doyle's Seafood Bar and Townhouse being shut with a premises for sale sign above the door. I was greeted by the owner, Mr Moriarty. Inside were an American couple about to leave who advised me that the food was very good. The only thing I could have was the oven baked salmon which came on a bed of boxty, with a side dish of lightly roasted potato and carrots with cabbage. The potato was almost white with an excellent fluffy texture. Fantastic. The salmon was good as well, accompanied by a glass of the black stuff. When I finished at about 8.10, Mr Moriarty decided to close for the night although the sign outside said open until 10. He said business was definitely down compared with last year, even in that part of the world. The bill came to 30.80 euros, almost £30 at the current rate. Expensive, but a snug enough bar area.http://www.lordbakers.ie
I negotiated some of the hairpin bends on the return journey but then took a slightly longer route over to Tralee on a straighter road. The westernmost parts of Ireland are part of the An Gaeltacht, areas where the Irish language is predominant. Around Dingle the road signs are in Irish first, with English underneath. Tralee was busy and I noted three restaurants to try there in January.