by Daniel Rogov » Sat May 15, 2010 12:50 pm
Jenise, Hi......
Historical speculation....
(a) Towards the beginning of the state many of the Americans who came to Israel settled on the kibbutzim and the culinary modus operandi there was in the direction of simplicity and luxury foods were frowned upon. Those who settled in the cities adjusted largely to what we can think of as "light Middle-Eastern" cuisine as many of the traditional American/Jewish and European foods were simply too heavy for the weather of their new environment.
(b) Although "Jewish restaurants" (both Ashkenazi and Sepharadi) thrived for many years the socialist ethos of the new country had it as a near sin to spend too much food or time on food. Food was something to survive and not to enjoy. In that expensive dishes actuallly brought about guilt in people
(c) As to pastrami in particular, some idiot (I do not know to whom give credit) decided that because the young country was going through a period of rationing and shortages that pastrami would be made not from beef but from turkey and chicken breasts. If I were prime minister or a supreme court judge, I would of course declare that person a traitor not only to the Jewish people but to humanity in general.
(d) As when going to any new country, one of the perverse pleasures of many people is in having the ability to recall with fondness what used to be in "the old country" and in such cases not having those things available makes them even more rewarding to the memory (look for example at how I sometimes praise the pain de trois cent grammes of Paris or the egg creams of Brooklyn)
(e) Final reason - and I know some will disagree with me on this one, but with the exception of the Charolais beef that is raised on the Golan Heights, for many years most of the beef raised in this country was so bland and texture-retarded that I do not hesitate to use my daughter's description that it "sucked for wooden nickels". Israeli excels in high-tech, medical advancements and in other ways but we remain one of those backward nations that continues to believe that good beef can come from cows and not steers.
Happily, now that we have entered the 21st century, things are looking up in the culinary vein (we will not discuss politics here). If ever I do retire, one of the projects to which I shall devote myself is a book on the development of dining habits in ancient and modern Israel. Not a popular book mind but a quite academic one. I have even discussed the possibility of working with a young historian whose work I respect enormously.
As to pastrami on rye bread...this week will find me at the new place. I go with high hopes. if there is a God, only She knows what awaits me, but truth be told, I fear not the valley of the shadow of pastrami as New York City does remain intact.
Best
Rogov
