I must have missed that review, but I'm pretty glad I didn't read it before I went there myself. It seems that this could be a case where the critic has different objectives than the casual eater. We were out for a good time at an Israeli restaurant, not so much to dissect each dish and compare it to Italian-run and owned restaurants.
As I hinted, there is certainly some failure to replicate 'authentic' Italian food, such as one finds at other Tel Aviv restaurants like Il Pastaio. This is not necessary for a great dining experience, in my opinion. If the decor felt tacky, I suppose your general opinion of Tel Aviv would be ultra-tacky. Certainly, some restaurants manage to go beyond the general gaudiness of Tel Aviv, but they are the rare exception, not the rule.
The dishes we had were different than the ones you had, with the exception of the tiramisu, and foccacia. I think we have to agree to disagree here. The tiramisu at Amici, which you praised in a past review, was far too sweet for me and my company in addition to having a strange dry-bread texture, while at Uno, the marscipone was just sweet enough to be felt as a dessert, but not overwhelming for us (the same four people in both situations). Also, the alcohol was felt in the tiramisu at our table, which you wrote didn't exist, though perhaps the restaurant has changed the recipe since your review.
Also, I think that it should be noted to the credit of the restaurant that its prices are fair for what you get, even when compared to non-kosher restaurants of similar stature. For Israelis who value the whole experience of good service, good value, fun atmosphere and usage of fresh local ingredients, this restaurant will have much appeal.
Lastly, I would question (cautiously) your decision to drink Castel Grand Vin at a Chalavi kosher italian-esque restaurant. We drank glasses of the 2009 Recanati Rosé and felt it balanced with the food pretty well.
BTW, At least your review did not descend into the depths of snobbism as did the one written in Ma'ariv over the past weekend, which basically argued that kosher restaurants can feed whatever they want to shomrei kashrut because their customers don't know any better. With this, I heartily disagree.