What's Cooking (Take Three!)

Betsy is making an Ottolenghi recipe for ....wait...shrimp bolognese. ???

OMG that sounds killer. I presumed you loved it?

Actually yes! Store was out of tarragon, Betsy used thyme stem when flavoring oil, and then finished with basil. A lot of comments said too much stock, Betsy likes to try recipe (if someone she trusts) as written first time, and it did look pretty soupy at first, but she just reduced longer, and I think that added to intensity of flavor. Definitely a do again. and she is pondering who best to serve it to at a dinner party.

But now I have a craving for cabbage rolls.

[Jenise]

Dale, I did look at the recipe and wondered about that much stock. However, I also felt some concern about the amount of tomato paste. Unlike Betsy, I do not feel compelled to go against my instincts no matter whose recipe it is. I would probably have cut back a little on the stock and maybe only start with half the tomato paste--I wouldn't want to overwelm the shrimp flavor.

[Jenise]

Last night we had a pile of seasoned rice topped with broccoli rabe steamed lightly then sauteed with garlic, and a tomato/onion salad on the side.

Tonight I'm roasting a chicken breast (which will feed two) and will serve slices under a mushroom-sherry sauce. Maybe on mashed potatoes. Not sure yet. And, of course, a green salad will accompany.

Dale, I did look at the recipe and wondered about that much stock. However, I also felt some concern about the amount of tomato paste. Unlike Betsy, I do not feel compelled to go against my instincts no matter whose recipe it is. I would probably have cut back a little on the stock and maybe only start with half the tomato paste--I wouldn't want to overwelm the shrimp flavor.

Betsy decided the 3 tablespoons of tomato paste was because there was so much broth (2 cups) and Ricard. She actually used shrimp broth so no issues with enough shrimp flavor.

The mushroom/sherry sauce sounds great.

We are expecting a strong rain storm today with high winds. I have taken out a frozen container of chili beans, and also have Ina Garten's corn bread which I add sour cream and Chile peppers. Always have a supply of it for winter recipes, so nice to have it on hand. Freezes very well and is yummy.

Jenise, I always get inspired by your and other's creative recipes... like the idea of the chicken breast on top of a mushroom sherry sauce. Especially since I have a few brown mushrooms to use up and what is left of a roasted chicken breast. Might be lunch today.
I am knee deep in juicing lemons, only takes about 45 min. to 1 hour to do a batch which fills up 4 ice cube trays. Doing the third batch today....lots more to go. Thank goodness for electric juicers! When I get friends and family taken care of, and dedicated freezer space to juiced lemons filled, the rest go to a local grocer who who is waiting.
Orange tree gave a good crop this year too, they are huge, still wished I had put in Satsuma Mandarins. Something about the navels I am not fond of, I pick up a different taste that nobody else does.? Still eating them though, as a good source of Vitamin C and other things.

[Jenise]

Jenise, I always get inspired by your and other's creative recipes... like the idea of the chicken breast on top of a mushroom sherry sauce.

It's a lovely meal. My breast was about 1.3 pounds. I salt both sides of it, skin on, and put it in a ziploc bag with two bay leaves and big dollops of white vermouth and olive oil. Let that sit on the counter for an hour, then brown well in a cast iron pan and move to the oven to roast for about 35 minutes. In the meantime I sauteed two peeled/sliced carrots until just done, cleaned and sliced the mushrooms, and set up my mis en place with tarragon, cream, chicken broth and a medium dry sherry. While the chicken roasted, we ate a salad of cucumbers, walnuts and frisee tossed with quince vinegar, roasted walnut oil and Penzeys French Dressing seasoning in place of salt. (Salad lovers: if you've never bought this Penzeys product, you need it.)

When the chicken was done (to 155) I removed it to the warming drawer and used about 1 tbslp of the chicken fat plus 1 T butter to lightly brown the mushrooms. Separately, I added some water to the carrots and then added about 1/2 a cup of couscous and left that, lid on to steam, while I began adding the other liquid ingredients to the mushrooms. I cooked that sauce down and added some chopped broccolini stems from Monday night's dinner to add their brilliant emerald color. Chicken slices went over the carrot couscous and it all got topped with that wonderful sauce.

The inspiration for the couscous came from sampling, pre-dinner, the Lopez de Heredia Gravonia I planned to serve with it. The carrots added a sweet earthy element that were a fab contrast to the salinity of the wine. Loved the whole thing.

[Jenise]

Karen, I'm jealous of your citrus trees. Btw, I know exactly what you mean about naval oranges, I don't care for them either. I love everything else but them.

...also have Ina Garten's corn bread...

Mmm, now I'm jonesing for corn bread.

Something about the navels I am not fond of, I pick up a different taste that nobody else does.? Still eating them though, as a good source of Vitamin C and other things.

I don't get any off-flavors from navel oranges but they are pretty boring. Like you say, still juicy and healthy and all that.

Jenise, I could not find the exact wording for the spice you mentioned, but I did see this and wonder if it is what your were referring to?
https://www.penzeys.com/online-catalog/ ... p-540/pd-s

Happy to know others feel the same way about Navels. Now, I am wondering if some of the folks who I give oranges to are just being polite, will have to do some sleuthing and find out. I kept thinking my taste was off
This salad dressing is excellent with oranges and I use it a lot

Orange Cilantro Vinaigrette
¼ cup sunflower or other mild-flavored oil
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
zest of 1 medium navel orange
¼ cup fresh orange juice
3 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots
1 teaspoon grainy mustard
½ teaspoon fresh ginger
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro (or basil)
Instructions
Combine all ingredients except cilantro (or basil) in a medium size jar with a tight-fitting lid. Cover and shake well to combine then add cilantro (or basil) and stir well. Shake before serving.

[Jenise]

Karen, I don't know how to describe what's wrong to me about the flavor of naval oranges, but I love valencias and cara caras. They taste round, like orange juice, where naval oranges taste incomplete--low acidity is certainly part of the problem but there's something else. Almost a vinyl-shower-curtain flavor. At least in supermarket ones, and especially Floridian oranges.

YES, that's the stuff. I don't use it to make a jar of dressing, though one could, rather I use it in place of salt (I think I said that) with various oils and vinegars. Really great. Because I make salad EVERY day, it gives me yet another way to make each salad taste original. I really love it with the cucumber-walnut combination.

Re your recipe, I love that and do something similar. It's a recipe I got from Canadian chef Laura Calder, wherein orange juice, mustard and a generous amount of shallots, EVOO, maybe honey too, make a great dressing. I no longer refer to anything written, I just combine to get the flavor that I remember. My favorite use for it is on cold asparagus spears, and there I choose tarragon for the herb component. I sometimes put the asparagus on a thin sheet or round of puff pastry--looks quite beautiful on the plate.

OH, speaking puff pastry. On NYE I got a desperate phone call from a friend named Gabe. He had ALL the ingredients already for the beef wellington he planned to make for his GF, except for the puff pastry. They didn't have any where he shopped. Well, it turned out nobody else in town had any either: 3 Safeways, 5 Haggen stores, both Co-ops--OUT. If I had some he was willing to drive over for it. (I surely would have given it to him but I was out too.) So I told him I would phone some friends but in the meantime had he checked Winco. "No, Winco, really?" And I said "Yes, they may have some because people on food stamps don't make Beef Wellington for Xmas dinner." He burst out laughing.

I then proceeded to call friends. I'd made one call but a second when Gabe called me back. He was at Winco, they had the pastry. "I can't believe you were right," he said. Voila.

Happy to know others feel the same way about Navels. Now, I am wondering if some of the folks who I give oranges to are just being polite, will have to do some sleuthing and find out. I kept thinking my taste was off

Never you mind! A gift of fresh citrus is always a good gift.

I receive a navel orange in my stocking every Xmas and its just fine for a quick snack anytime.

Orange tree gave a good crop this year too, they are huge, still wished I had put in Satsuma Mandarins. Something about the navels I am not fond of, I pick up a different taste that nobody else does.? Still eating them though, as a good source of Vitamin C and other things.

Ship those oranges my way and plant chiles. They have more Vit C than oranges.

Happy to know others feel the same way about Navels. Now, I am wondering if some of the folks who I give oranges to are just being polite, will have to do some sleuthing and find out. I kept thinking my taste was off

Never you mind! A gift of fresh citrus is always a good gift.

I receive a navel orange in my stocking every Xmas and its just fine for a quick snack anytime.

Indeed. I agree with everyone that navels are not the most exciting version of citrus. But, it all depends on the particular specimens. There's usually a few weeks each year when the navels are better than the available versions of the other more interesting citrus. And that's what counts.

Yes, citrus is always a great gift, and as long as my friends and family take them, I will be happy. I do love using the juice, in salads, marinades and of course that wonderful zest, I use a lot of. Citrus, be it lemon, lime or orange types, always brighten any recipe. It is my secret ingredient.

Last night I made Jenise's braised Tuscan chicken with porcini. Absolutely brilliant--such a simple set of ingredients and so easy to make, yet the result is so delicious. And the wonderful porcini fragrance while it's cooking!

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

Paul, so happy to hear. You know what I haven't made that in ages--I'm WAY overdue. Thanks for bringing it up, I'll put it on the menu for this weekend.

Last night I made a Thai stir-fry based on a recipe I got from Importfood.com. It is pork stir-fried with green beans and red and green bell peppers, the seasonings being red curry paste, nam prik pao (a paste of chiles and dried shrimp in oil), fish sauce, garlic, sugar, bird's eye chiles, and ground black pepper. I'm not fond of green beans so I just used more bell peppers. The recipe calls for pork belly cut into small cubes. I've had pork belly in Thai restaurants before but this is the first time I've used it in my own Thai cooking. You stir-fry the pork belly over very high heat in a wok until the fat renders out and the meat starts browning. Then you remove the excess fat and continue the stir-fry with the seasonings and finally the vegetables.

The meat comes out similar to chewy (not crisp) bacon, and as an added benefit you get some nice lard to play with.

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

For lunch today I went to make a pho. Was going to be a gingery broth, noodles and shrimp. As I was getting the mis en place set up, I suddenly got the flavors of Hot and Sour Soup in my head, and next thing you know vinegar, white pepper, chile flakes, star anise and dried lily buds were on their way into the pot. Finished each bowl with fresh Thai basil. FANTASTIC!

Jenise, that sounds amazing, I love the Thai Basil. The lady who cuts my hair has a pot of fresh herbs just outside her door and she let me take six cuttings from her pot. I rooted them and they sit in a pot at my kitchen window. Took a bit of time for them to get going, but are thriving now and starting to flower. In the Spring I will move them to the herb garden.

It is pouring down rain here in the valley, mountains are covered with snow. With all the talk of cabbage rolls, it is what is on the menu today. I have the Passata out, and will add fresh garlic and a few skin off tomatoes, finely chopped, which needed to be used. Lean ground beef, onion, more garlic, a celery stalk and Jasmine Rice, cooked first in chicken stock which will be seasoned with Beau Monde and Poultry Seasoning. Layers of cabbage rolls, Passata, and Bavarian Sauerkraut will fill a small Dutch Oven. I also add a bit of the sauerkraut juice to my beef, rice mixture,

Yesterday, I made a pot of Rio Zappe Beans, cooked with onion, garlic and bay leaves, Oregano, and they delivered a great pot liquor. Roasted veggies will be carrots, butternut squash, red onion wedges, and a cob of corn, cut in half. Lemon wedges will be scattered throughout the pan.

"The recipe calls for pork belly cut into small cubes. I've had pork belly in Thai restaurants before but this is the first time I've used it in my own Thai cooking."
Paul, I have chunk of pork cheeks frozen in the freezer, would that work as well as pork belly?

I have no experience with pork cheek meat. What makes pork belly work in this dish (and in twice-cooked pork) is the roughly 50:50 proportion of lean and fat, and its arrangement in alternating layers. One of the Chinese names for pork belly is "five-flower pork" because of the alternating layers of lean and fat, plus the skin as the "fifth flower". With cheek meat I'd be concerned that there's too much connective tissue and the result would be tough.

-Paul W.

[Jenise]

I've never cooked fresh pork cheek either, can't help.

Karen, your mentioning that orange-shallot-mustard dressing inspired me to make it last night as a topping for pan-seared chilean sea bass on asparagus. Absolutely delicious!

Kung Pao Shrimp tonight from a NY Times recipe. Good but seriously hot (I can't believe I'm saying that, but I do eat the chiles, too). I would halve the number of chiles next time (I used chile arboles). When I was ready to plate, it dawned on me that I could have used up some baby bellas I have. Too late, though. And not the first time that's happened to me.