Slow-Cooked Duck Legs in Red Wine
<<Salmis>>
(For Howard)
“According to the old Gascon cooks, the secret of a great salmis is in the reheating over a 3 or 4 day period. Each day the meat is slowly reheated, simmered, cooled, and degreased. The flavors mellow more each time. The flesh turns meltingly tender. Don’t be put off by this small amount of extra work. This recipe is one of the finest renditions of salmis that I have tasted in the Southwest. The flour-based sauce is not to be scoffed at. It holds the wine flavor through all those reheatings and is sensational.” – Paula Wolfert, The Cooking of Southwest France
Serves 4
To achieve best flavor, you must begin this recipe 3 days before serving.
8 whole Muscovy duck legs
3 T Armagnac
5 oz lean ventreche or pancetta
5 large shallots
10 garlic cloves
6 T flour
1 bottle (750 ml) full-bodied red wine (ex – CA Petite Sirah or French Cotes-du-Rhone)
Herb bouquet: 3 sprigs parsley, 1 sprig thyme, and 1 imported bay leaf tied together w/string
Pinch of sugar
S & P
3 days before serving, trim the fat from all of the legs and render it. With a thin-bladed knife, score the fatty skin on the legs without piercing the flesh.
In a large skillet, heat 1 T of the rendered fat over low heat. In batches if necessary, add the legs, skin side down, and cook, turning once, until browned, about 3 minutes per side. Pour off all the fat in the skillet.
Add 2 T Armagnac and carefully ignite with a long match. When the flames subside, transfer the legs to a 3-quart earthernware or enameled cast-iron casserole.
In a food processor, finely chop the ventreche, shallots, and garlic. Add to the skillet and cook over moderate heat, scraping up the bits and pieces clinging to bottom and sides of the pan, until all is lightly browned around the edges.
Sprinkle on the flour and cook, stirring constantly, for about 1 minute, until the mixture masses into a ball. Reduce the heat to moderately low. Gradually add the red wine by cupfuls, stirring to smooth out the flour. This must be done very slowly so that the flour will completely absorb the wine and the sauce will thicken properly. When all the wine has been added and the sauce is smooth, bring to a boil and pour over the duck legs.
Add the herb bouquet, sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. Cover with a sheet of buttered waxed paper and then a lid. Cook over very low heat for 1 hour. The wine should just “shudder.” (This can also be done in a preheated 275F oven.) Uncover and let cool, then cover and refrigerate overnight.
The following day, remove all fat from the surface. Let come to room temperature. Cover again and place in a cold oven. Turn the heat on to 275F and cook for 1.5 hours. Let cool, uncovered; cover and refrigerate.
The third day, repeat procedure but cook at 225F for 1.5 hours.
Just before serving, stir in the remaining 1 T Armagnac and check for salt and pepper.
(Suggested to serve with fried cornmeal cakes, “armottes”.)