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RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

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RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jenise » Wed Aug 04, 2021 4:53 pm

From Milk Street, and delightful as a nest to be topped with seafood. This was served to them on a lemon farm in Amalfi, Italy. Note: "the lemons in the U.S. are more acidic than Amalfi's lemons, to to make a pesto that approximates the original, we use a little sugar to temper the flavor. For extra citrus complexity, we add lemon zest to the pasta cooking water, the oils lightly perfume the spaghetti and reinforce the lemony notes of the pesto."

I used regular lemons for the cooking water treatment and meyer lemons for the pesto itself, since I could get them.

Ingredients:

4 lemons
Kosher salt and ground black pepper
1.5 tsp white sugar, divided
1/2 c slivered almonds
1/2 cup parmesan cheese for the pesto + 1/2 cup for finishing
1/3 c EVOO
2 Tblsp chopped fresh chives
1 lb spaghetti (I used linguine for the greater surface area)

With a vegetable peeler remove the zest (yellow part only) from the lemons in long, wide strips.

In a large pot combined 2 qts water (deliberately low to improve the viscosity and flavor of the cooking water), 2 tsp salt, 1 tsp of the sugar and half of the zest strips. Bring to a boil and cook for two minutes, then remove and discard the zest. Add the spaghetti and cook until al dente. Reserve 1.5 c cooking liquid and drain the rest, returning the pasta to the pot.

Meanwhile in a food processor, combine the remaining lemon strips, almonds, parmesan, 1/2 tsp sugar (I skipped this) and 1/4 tsp salt and pepper. Process until the texture of coarse sand. Add the oil and process just until incorporated, about ten more seconds and set aside until pasta's ready.

When ready, add the pesto and half the reserved cooking water and toss to combine. Add more pasta water as needed, plus lemon juice if you're feeling zippy, and toss in the chives.

I topped ours with roasted halibut. Shrimp, scallops, lobster, other fish--all would be great. As part of a seafood dish, plan on 1 pound spaghetti making about 8 servings.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Wed Aug 04, 2021 11:50 pm

Thank you, Jenise.

Why add the cooking water to the pesto?

My eye, and my lack of a food processor, suggests that I will grate half of the rind and use almond flour so the pesto can be made with a whisk.
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jenise » Thu Aug 05, 2021 7:58 am

Adding the cooking water turns it into a sauce that will now coat your spaghetti. Without that addition, it's just sand.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Paul Winalski » Thu Aug 05, 2021 11:21 am

Regarding the US vs. Amalfi lemon issue, instead of adding sugar I'd make one or more of the lemons a Meyer lemon.

-Paul W.
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Thu Aug 05, 2021 11:53 am

Jenise wrote:Adding the cooking water turns it into a sauce that will now coat your spaghetti. Without that addition, it's just sand.

Thanks. I guess the oil doesn't make it into enough of a paste that the water on the noodles thins it out enough.
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Thu Aug 05, 2021 12:01 pm

The parmesan doesn't actually need to be divided, right?


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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Karen/NoCA » Thu Aug 05, 2021 12:02 pm

Has anyone had experience with Lisbon Lemons? We have a huge tree and it blesses us with more lemons than we can use. We juice them using an electric juicer and make lemon cubes which we freeze for fresh lemon juice all year. We also freeze the half-shells of the lemon and use the zest as needed. Lisbon lemons are seedless, you might find a seed or two now and then, and I think they taste better than any other lemon. They are also very large and have funny knobs on each end. Our tree has a following, and last year when we got over 1200 lemons, we gave everyone a nice basket full. I was also able to sell some to a small market near us. It is on a regular feeding program, gets plenty of water, and is trimmed by an arborist (a former coworker) every April. We used to wrap it in frost cloth as it was growing up, but now we need to use outdoor lights placed on the ground aiming up through the tree, during the frost season.
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Thu Aug 05, 2021 1:07 pm

Karen, from a quick hunt around, Lisbon is one of the most common lemon varieties in the world. It even surpasses Eureka, the textbook lemon, because the trees are hardier.

https://www.specialtyproduce.com/produce/Lisbon_Lemons_7993.php
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jenise » Sat Aug 07, 2021 2:20 pm

Jeff Grossman wrote:The parmesan doesn't actually need to be divided, right?


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Good catch. In the recipe, the other half is meant for finishing. It also called for 1 ounce cheese cut into 1 inch pieces "plus finely grated parm to serve". I simplified that as I made it, one cup already-grated (I grate my own and keep a never ending supply in the fridge) in which half goes into the pesto and the other half becomes a finishing garnish (if desired). I didn't garnish since I was serving the pasta with fish.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Sat Aug 07, 2021 4:55 pm

The big-piece cheese makes me think someone intended this to be a serious side or main.

Anyway, thank you. I'll report back when I can get my hands on some Meyer lemons.

(And I think I'll continue your trend from spaghetti to linguini to fettucine!)
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jenise » Mon Aug 09, 2021 5:27 pm

The parm chunks were meant to go in the food processor which is going to grind them up anyway, so there's no reason not to use grated or ground if you have it unless you naively believe that smaller pieces would over-grind (they don't). To include both grated and whole chunks in the same recipe makes zero sense.

By the way, I really enjoyed the effect of the lemon peel flavor on the pasta cooking water.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Sun Oct 17, 2021 6:35 pm

Made a half-recipe of this last night. Excellent. Definitely to do again.

I'm not persuaded that the 'boil zest in water' really matters much but I don't have anything to compare it with, either. :D

I ignored the spoon of sugar, added almost all the juice of one lemon (too good to omit), and also 3 tbsp toasted slivered almonds (for extra crunch).

And then I plated it as a main course with shrimp, scallops, and some sauteed vegetables.

Thanks, again, Jenise!
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jenise » Sun Oct 17, 2021 6:41 pm

I did taste the pasta and it definitely absorbed lemon peel flavor. On the other hand, would depend on how much water you booked the pasta in. And if you didn't know it could be there would you miss it? Probably not.
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Sun Oct 17, 2021 6:46 pm

Jenise wrote:I did taste the pasta and it definitely absorbed lemon peel flavor. On the other hand, would depend on how much water you booked the pasta in. And if you didn't know it could be there would you miss it? Probably not.

Half what was called for, natch.
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Thu Nov 11, 2021 10:50 pm

Needed a fast dinner tonight so made a quickie version of this for myself: grated the zest off one Meyer lemon, stirred in its juice, one tbsp each almond flour, grated parmesan, and olive oil, and threw in a dash of herbes de provence and garlic powder. Tossed over cheese tortellini with a handful of cherry tomatoes and a bit of torn speck. Terrif!
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jeff Grossman » Tue Nov 30, 2021 12:51 pm

And, one last make, last night, with the last of that batch of Meyer lemons. Whole grain linguini and pan-seared shrimp. Sauce came together beautifully. Totally keeping this in the repertoire!
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Re: RCP: Spaghetti with Lemon Pesto (Jeff requested)

by Jenise » Tue Nov 30, 2021 4:14 pm

:)
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov

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