WTN: 2004 Seven Deadly Zins Lodi California. Deep ruby/purple color, deep hue, simple fruit aroma on the getgo, which opened over time, becoming much more complex with a dusty, briary aroma, good fruit with pepper, dust and that wild taste that comes from old vines, medium mouth feel, long complex single note finish. Wonderful with homemade green pepper and mushroom pizza. as well as a big, briery, spicy, peppery nose, excellent texture, very good fruit, and a medium to full-bodied finish. 4*.
Further notes: we had planned to have a taste off of the 2002, 2003 and 2004 vintages. Life intruded -- FedEx decided it preferred to deliver the shipment to their office floor in Mahwah, where it got lost and is still unavailable. I shopped for substitutes at Wine Discount, and was able to find one bottle -- the clerks said the wine flew off the shelves -- for $14.00. [Having read so much about the wine and the marketing, I was surprised to see that it was a sort of non-descript label -- certainly several labels of other zins leapt off the shelf and were much more prominent.]
At home, life intruded further -- the kids showed up an hour early, and food prep was controlled chaos. David opened the SDZ and his first report was disappointment -- good zin fruit, but awfully simple. But, over the next half hour, the aroma and taste gained complexity. The pizza turned out beautifully, the salad was delicious, and the wine held its own for all four of us.
This seems to be a wine that apparently drinks a lot better than it tastes. A delightful surprise.