If anyone doubts that Chenin based whites from Touraine and Anjou, even dry examples, are strong contenders for the title of of the world's greatest white wines, I rest my case on this Montlouis here and on the Jasnières from about a week ago, as well as on some rave worthy demi-sec and moelleux from Foreau and Huet consumed over recent years. To boot, they are mostly accessibly priced. For my palate, their only real rivals are Riesling from Germany, Alsace and Austria and the prices here seem to be creeping upwards, especially in Austria, Germany (for VdP) and Alsace (e.g. Trimabach CFE & CSH). Until premox struck, I would have included white Burgundy but, IMHO, bringing out their best qualities, except perhaps for Chablis, requires 10+ years ageing which is just too risky nowadays at the prices asked for for grands and 1ers crus. (Some people also complain of premox in Loire chenin but I have only experienced it in Savennières; a degree of nuttiness and deep colour is acceptable, even welcome, IMO). This one is a young example already showing beautifully.
Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Bournais 2008 - François Chidaine - Alc.13.5% - (€20). Colour was medium/pale yellow. The nose was beautifully mineral with citrus and white fruit touches and a rounder and darker undertow showing the beginnings of typical wax and quince. The palate was medium weight, superbly focussed, linear and delightfully racy with mouth-watering crisp acidity, complex minerality, fresh fruit slightly in the background, great nervous tension and a similar round, but not yet as well developed, undertow to that on the nose. In time, I am sure that this will gain in beeswax complexity and fullness but at the expense of exuberant raciness; 17.5/20.