by Craig Winchell » Thu May 03, 2012 9:05 pm
Everyone wants to do something different, and everyone starts looking the same. We used to wear long hair and bell bottoms to express our individuality, but we looked just like everyone else. In the past 20 years, everyone now makes Syrah, many make Pinot, Many got on the Sangiovese bandwagon, now look at Viognier and the list goes on. Everyone is interested in trying a new thing. When successful, others try the same. Soon the market becomes saturated, prices decrease, marketing becomes tougher, and people sprint away. It is always the way things go. Certain varieties can absorb greater production, others can't. So Syrah is losing ground. Sangiovese is just about shot. Chenin Blanc is just about nonexistent except for Loire, where it is one of the classic grapes, and South Africa, where it has become a standard. Sauvignon Blanc is an "also ran" everywhere but France and New Zealand. GSMs are big now, but they will decline, and people will largely go back to CdP.
It takes more than good wine to get a grape going in a big way. It takes great wine, and lots of it, and many distinctive wines. There will always be Syrah, in the northern Rhone and in some places in Australia, but it will lose ground in most places. Cab, though, is ubiquitous, because of the perception that great Cab can be made anywhere, and frequently is. Same for Chardonnay.
So where does that leave us? Brand Napa Valley for Cab and a couple of others, brand Walla Walla for Merlot and a few others, brand Sonoma County for Chardonnay, Zin and Pinot, brand Santa Barbara for Pinot. Maybe Anderson Valley for Pinot and Chard. It doesn't matter that a host of varieties is growing in each of these places, the only thing that matters is that these are often excellent and distinctive. Israel makes some very good wines. When they hit upon a variety which they can do uniformly excellently and distinctively, they will become known for it. Otherwise, they will be also-rans, like so many others. It's not a matter of novelty., which admittedly can sell a few bottles. It's chronic greatness, past the winemaking and into the grape itself, at that location. It's chronic distinctiveness on top of that, from winery to winery in the region.
I'm afraid that none of those varieties listed at the top of the thread will be enough to brand Israel, and I don't think Touriga Nacional will be enough to brand Shirah Wine Company, in the end... The wine must be distinctive and uniformly excellent, and not a novelty. People will always buy one bottle of a novelty. Right now, Georgia (formery Soviet)is very popular. Unless quality increases, novelty is all it will be.