The place for all things wine, focused on serious wine discussions.
User avatar
User

Robin Garr

Rank

Forum Janitor

Posts

17552

Joined

Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:44 pm

Location

Louisville, KY

WTN /WineAdvisor: Bugey Cerdon (Bartucci NV)

by Robin Garr » Fri Nov 17, 2006 2:28 pm

Bugey Cerdon

Continuing our pre-holiday inquiry into alternative sparkling wines, let's wrap up the work week with a quick look at a particularly offbeat model, a sweet and fizzy <i>pink</i> bubbly from the Jura mountains near Savoie in Eastern France.

Light and frothy with just 8 percent alcohol, Bugey Cerdon is admired, at least among a smallish cadre of cognoscenti, as an ideal summer aperitif, a quenching sparkler that ranks among the most refreshing of wines.

But Bugey Cerdon isn't just for sultry July afternoons any more: I submit that its crisp, tart-sweet profile, loaded with the juicy strawberry aromas and flavors of the Gamay grape, makes it an unexpectedly fine choice for the Thanksgiving table. It marries well with both light turkey meat and dark (not to mention all the traditional trimmings), and its Champagne-style bottle and cork pop with the festive flair that adds fun to the holiday meal.

Today's tasting, a Bugey Cerdon made by Raphaël Bartucci, is a blend of 80% Gamay and 15% Poulsard, an indigenous regional grape, with a spash of 5% Chardonnay to lighten the color and heighten the flavor. It's labeled "<i>methode ancestrale</i>" (loosely, "historic method," the same ancient process that I mentioned in Monday's report on Blanquette de Limoux), with the further explanation "<i>Pétillant obtenu par fermentation spontanée en bouteille</i>" ("Sparkling obtained by spontaneous fermentation in the bottle").

Curiously, although the <i>methode ancestrale</i> is truly ancient in Limoux, dating back to 1531, it's a much more recent arrival in Bugey, where wine makers in the 1940s and '50s started gassing the local still wines with carbon dioxide - much like soft-drink production - to make them fizz. A few artisanal producers around the village of Cerdon later adopted the "ancestral method," putting partially fermented wine in Champagne-style bottles to develop natural carbonation while retaining some sweetness; this process was formally recognized with legal approval for the "Bugey Cerdon" label as recently as 1962.

Bartucci Bugey Cerdon is a fully organic wine in the vineyard and the winery, and adds no sulfites beyond those naturally produced by fermentation. Accordingly, it should be drunk as young as possible, not cellared.

<table border="0" align="right" width="170"><tr><td><img src="http://www.wineloverspage.com/graphics1/buge1116.jpg" border="1" align="right"></td></tr></table>Raphaël Bartucci NV Bugey Cerdon ($19.99)

The Champagne-style cork comes out of this clear, bright pink wine with a fully carbonated pop, and it pours with a frothy fizz that quickly falls back to a lasting bubble stream. Its lovely scent blends fresh strawberries, rising bread dough and subtle earthiness. Fizzy and crisp, it's well off-dry, but good acidity keeps it from cloying, juicy strawberry flavors hanging on in a long finish. Light and gulpable at just 8% alcohol, it's ideal for summer sipping, but I wouldn't turn it down on a holiday table. U.S. importer: USA Wine Imports, NYC; Jenny & François Selections, World Wide Wine Ltd. (Nov. 16, 2006)

<B>FOOD MATCH:</b> Anticipating a Thanksgiving dinner combination, it went well with roasted turkey thighs. The crisp strawberry fruit and crisp acidity made a fine flavor match with the earthy, slightly oily flavor of turkey dark meat, and the sweetness of the wine seemed to dry out a bit with the food match.

<B>VALUE:</B> Certainly worth the $20 toll, at least on occasion, if only to add a rather rare and offbeat wine and region to your collection.

<B>WHEN TO DRINK:</B> Needs to be drunk up promptly, certainly within a year. Since it's non-vintage and bears no "best-by" date, you should buy from a trusted vendor and avoid dusty bottles. This isn't usually a problem, though, as this limited-production wine generally moves off the shelf fast.

<B>PRONUNCIATION:</B>
<B>Bugey</B> = "<I>Boo-zhay</I>"
<B>Cerdon</B> = "<I>Sehr-dawN</I>"

<B>WEB LINK:</B>
There's only limited information about this producer and his wines online. This page about Raphaël Bartucci is available only in French, but responds relatively well to the Translation Tools on Google.com.

<B>FIND THIS WINE ONLINE:</B>
The U.S. importer lists distributors in a limited number of states, and a contact E-mail link to query about availability elsewhere.

I got mine at Chambers Street Wines in NYC, which still has a quantity in stock at this link.

Finally, you can compare prices and look for vendors for Bugey Cerdon on Wine-Searcher.com.
no avatar
User

Bill Hooper

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

2089

Joined

Sat Mar 25, 2006 1:46 am

Location

McMinnville, OR

Re: WTN /WineAdvisor: Bugey Cerdon (Bartucci NV)

by Bill Hooper » Fri Nov 17, 2006 6:45 pm

Nicely done Robin! You can never have too many sparklers. I'll look for this one. I also just picked up a Brut de Savoie from Pierre Boniface. Not much info, but I'm assuming 100% Jacquere. I haven't tried it yet, but will post.



Prost!
Bill
User avatar
User

wrcstl

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

886

Joined

Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:20 pm

Location

St. Louis

Re: WTN /WineAdvisor: Bugey Cerdon (Bartucci NV)

by wrcstl » Fri Nov 17, 2006 9:46 pm

OK, how about this for a prejudice remark. I have never had this but based on TNs that I have seen everywhere this just does not seem like my cup of tea. "tart-sweet profile, loaded with the juicy strawberry aromas and flavors of the Gamay grape" just isn't a selling factor. Now, having said that I will confess to being forced, very easily, into more sparkling wines by my lovely wife. Seldom will we have take out Chinese without a sparkler. It is a must but for QPR I will go with Gruet and many other good ones in the $20. Am I wrong or just a grumpy old conservative? Wait, no need to answer that.

Love prosecco, Gruet, NV Champagne on sale and vintage west coast sparklers. I am being victimized by the TNs so maybe I should try a bottle. Still seems like a summer hot weather drink.

Thanksgiving this year will be '96 Mumm DVX(domestic) clearanced at $20 by our local wine shop.

Walt
User avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Riesling Guru

Posts

22662

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:52 pm

Location

Connecticut

Re: WTN /WineAdvisor: Bugey Cerdon (Bartucci NV)

by David M. Bueker » Fri Nov 17, 2006 11:38 pm

wrcstl wrote: Am I wrong or just a grumpy old conservative?

Walt


Yes.

Anyway, I can see your reaction, but Bugey is just so much fun! It's light, it's frothy, and it's refreshingly sweet, the way a GOOD Moscato d'Asti is refreshingly sweet. I love having Bugey any time the temperature is not frigid. The quality of the Bugey available in the USA is very high, so it's a lot easier to get a good one (if you can find them at all) than with Prosecco or less expensice USA fizz. I've had both the Renardat-Faché and Bottex Bugeys (Bugies? :wink: ), and both are delicious.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.
User avatar
User

wrcstl

Rank

Wine guru

Posts

886

Joined

Wed Mar 22, 2006 3:20 pm

Location

St. Louis

Re: WTN /WineAdvisor: Bugey Cerdon (Bartucci NV)

by wrcstl » Sat Nov 18, 2006 12:46 am

David M. Bueker wrote:Bugey is just so much fun! It's light, it's frothy, and it's refreshingly sweet


David,
Sounds like a bubbly kool-aid. Did I mention I am not a fan of RS?
Walt.
User avatar
User

David M. Bueker

Rank

Riesling Guru

Posts

22662

Joined

Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:52 pm

Location

Connecticut

Re: WTN /WineAdvisor: Bugey Cerdon (Bartucci NV)

by David M. Bueker » Sat Nov 18, 2006 12:51 am

wrcstl wrote:Did I mention I am not a fan of RS?
Walt.


We all have our flaws.
There behind the glass lies a real blade of grass. Be careful as you pass. Move along. Move along.
no avatar
User

Rahsaan

Rank

Wild and Crazy Guy

Posts

7045

Joined

Tue Mar 28, 2006 9:20 pm

Location

Chapel Hill, NC

Re: WTN /WineAdvisor: Bugey Cerdon (Bartucci NV)

by Rahsaan » Tue Nov 21, 2006 2:33 pm

And good to see that more and more Bugey Cerdons are making their way into the US market..
User avatar
User

Robin Garr

Rank

Forum Janitor

Posts

17552

Joined

Fri Feb 17, 2006 2:44 pm

Location

Louisville, KY

Re: WTN /WineAdvisor: Bugey Cerdon (Bartucci NV)

by Robin Garr » Tue Nov 21, 2006 2:43 pm

Rahsaan wrote:And good to see that more and more Bugey Cerdons are making their way into the US market..


Or into Chambers Street, anyway. I'm afraid they're still mighty thin on the ground across this great land of ours.

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Bing [Bot] and 3 guests

Powered by phpBB ® | phpBB3 Style by KomiDesign
cron