Wine Focus for September: Worldwide Sauvignon Blanc

My favorite Sauvignon Blanc several years ago was a Nyakas from Hungary that doesn't seem to be available any longer in the US. It had a chewy taste. We found several quite like it in South Styria in 2008, Hannes Sabathi and List, to name a couple. Sauvignon Blanc was being taken very seriously there, many speaking of it as the signature wine.

2011 Nobilo Icon Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, NZ. Screwcap. 14% abv. Label says the best fruit from the estate vineyards goes into the Icon label. Crispy and yet fruity. I paired this with a main dish of the 3 Ps--pork loin, peaches and pecans. A pear or peach note in the wine matched nicely with the dish and the crispness of the wine also cleansed the palate between bites of the pork and semi-sweet sauce. Fresh acidity.

Astrolabe, Marlborough, Durvillea, Sauvignon Blanc, 2010

Gooseberry Fields Forever - fruit so fresh and vivid it feels as thought it had just been plucked off the vines. Crisp and saline as well.

Astrolabe, Marlborough, Voyage, Sauvignon Blanc, 2010

In Israel, the Voyage is synonymous with Astrolabe, but it's not even the flagship label, it's just a step up from the Durvillea, right before the single-vineyard bottlings (which will be imported soon, so tells me the local importer). Whatever, it's just as vibrant as the Durvillea, but the gooseberry fruit seems deeper, more complex - and the mineral edge more pronounced. It's really lovely, with clarity that will win you over if you have any empathy for the grape at all.

During a visit to Carrefour's Foire aux Vins, I took the opportunity of picking up a couple of budget Sauvignon based wines. (There was a big choice of Bordeaux at competitive prices but I'm no longer in the market for Grands Crus and won't buy unfamiliar ones without tasting - some even under €3!)

Côtes de Duras - Les Petites Caves - Alc.13% - (<€4). This is a regular choice for cooking wine but I took a slurp of it straight from the fridge, therefore colder than I would normally drink. It was a simplistic dry but bracing with strong but enjoyable bitter notes reminiscent of of grapefruit and lively acidity. I don't know the precise varietal composition but from the taste Sauvignon was dominant. Drinkable if nothing better available; 13.5/20.

(Côtes de Duras is a sort of Bordeaux satellite using the same grape varieties in a similar way to Bergerac, Buzet and to a less extent Marmandais. Duras itself is an attractive small town boasting a half-ruined castle http://www.mairie-duras.fr/ .)

Touraine Sauvignon 2011 - Domaine de la Charmoise, Henry Marionnet - Alc.12.5% -(<€6). This is what I wrote about the 2010 and it also fits this 2011.
This is the entry white in the Marionnet range and IMO shows much less personality than its Gamay equivalent. It was dry, quite soft on the entry with pleasant gooseberry tinged green fruit, slightly hollow in mid-palate with a smoky finish - but no new oak here. The overall impression was a little bland and others, e.g. Chidaine, do much better with Touraine Sauvignon ; 14/20 QPR.

I must search for a SB which I really like. A local merchant has some Sauvignon de Saint-Bris from Goisot. That could do the trick.

2011 Bartholemew Park Sauvignon Blanc. Mostly Sonoma Valley, with some fruit from Rutherford to add the tropical notes. Very pungeant...almost New Zealandesque in character with refreshing acidity and nice citrus notes dominating. Fun stuff.

2011 Galil Mountain Winery Galil Series Sauvignon Blanc. Exudes aromas of sweet smelling flowers bursting in the fields of spring. Full, rich, and smooth In the mouth. It abounds with a taste of a sweet and rich butter, reminding me also of fresh picked, sweet melon with a hint of honey. Ends with a long and lovely finish. Equivalent of $15 when I purchased it at the winery.

I had a few Sauv Blancs on Monday at a trade tasting. First was Geyser Peak 2010 Alexander Valley. This was very nice and clean and fruit forward gooseberry and citrus. For $10 very enjoyable. Next was Oyster Bay 2012 fro Marlborough. This had more going on in it and probably the best Oyster Bay I have had. It also was more gooseberry but with a little more weight. This is my first 2012 NZ Sauv Blanc. This was good value at $12. Next was Stoneleigh 2011 from Marlborough as well. I thought this was pretty much straightforward with citrus and good acidity but a bit lacking in fruit. At $15 I was not impressed. I also picked up some Clos Henri 2008 Sauv Blanc Marlborough. This is a different animal. This wine always seems to have definite French characteristics which is not surprizing as this is part of the Henri Bourgeois empire from Sancerre. This has much more mineral and stony notes with more body and weight than most Marlborough Sauv Blanc. I also like this as it was a closeout at $9.

Gastronomic temple, Rob, held a tasting on Friday and there were 3 dry white Bordeaux on show. I also took the opportunity of picking up a Pouilly-Fumé. There is fabulous choice of French wine here but the margins are very generous for the shop (for example, I checked out one prestigious bottle on "discount" here for €70 and found it available at the importer for €53 ).

Vignobles Maurice Robert, near Créon, Entre-deux-mers -

Entre-deux-mers ROB 2011 - (c.€6), made from SB 55%, Sémillon 40% and Muscadelle 5% and tank aged, was fresh and lively, with some grilled meat in aroma, lots of citrus and other white fruit, crisp acidity and some minerals; 15.5/20 QPR! even at Rob's price.
Bordeaux Château Turcaud cuvée barriques 2010 - (€10), made from SB 80% and barrique fermented and aged for 8 months (one-third new), showed a much more caressing texture, depth and aromatic complexity but cedary wood notes were at this stage more prominent than I like, though less than I feared from the name; 16/20 when (if) the wood integrates better.
Bordeaux Château Moulin de la Grave (c.€5), made from Sémillon (>50%) and SB and tank aged, should have been tried before the previous and seemed relatively superficial and simplistic, if nicely crisp and refreshing.

Pouilly-Fumé Cuvée Bailly 2010 - Caves de Pouilly-sur-Loire - Alc.12.5% - (c.€12). It pays to read a label carefully; when I saw "Bailly" on the label I remembered the Bailly Les Loges estate which was well regarded in my early days of wine drinking and I failed to notice the faint words "Cave de Pouilly-sur-Loire", clearly a co-operative.
It therefore came as a pleasant surprise that this SB derived wine was definitely the best of those opened or sipped this month and last. There was a lively bouquet of flint infused citrus and white fruit without the exaggeration of last month's Kiwi example and the medium bodied palate was crisply dry (more so than the Kiw), fresh, charmingly fruity and aromatic, full of minerals and lively acidity and quite long; 15.5/20++.

(Re Bailly, there now seem to be two estates of that name, of which Michel has a Les Loges address.)

Two sauvignon blanc wines that have stood out for me over the last six montha are the 2008 Didier Dageuneau Blanc Fume de Pouilly and the Thomas-Labaille Sancerre l’authentique 2010.

The Blanc de Fume is Dageuneau’s entry level wine, and it is not cheap. But going on my one experience (I have never had the Silex, etc.), the domaine bears out the hype. In addition to a purity of fruit (citrus, peach), and a depth and intensity of flavor, there is an extraordinary combination of roundness, and yes—though I suspect the word—“cut,” to the wine that makes drinking it continually interesting in a way that only a few other sauvignon blancs seem to be.

The Thomas-Labaille Sancerre l’authentique 2010 is another one of those wines. Not quite as vibrant and wideranging as the Dageuneau, it lacks neither for intensity nor focus, and the finish is distinctively long. A Dressner selection that I first encountered at Vin Rouge (a drop dead imitation of a good French bistro, down to the ris de veau, located in Durham, NC), my advice is grab this one when you have a chance, as it retails for a half to a third of the Dageuneau.

Just to add a different slant to this discussion, I make a Sauvignon Blanc that is fermented on its skins until dry, then pressed to barrel and goes thru full malolactic. The result is controversial but it seems to become less about variety of grape and more about place where the grapes are grown. IMO, it makes for a savory, textured wine with some tannin, plenty of flavor and aromatics that are both unidentifiable and intriguing.
There aren't many people doing this in the states but if you get a chance to try one, it can be an eye-opener. Superb with food but not for back porch drinking on a hot day. And surprisingly, better at room temperature than cold.
Something to think about.
Best, Jim

[Jenise]

Peter Yealands is causing a few folks to listen and learn more about his success story. Based in Marlborough, looks like an aging rock star! Sustainable vineyard, wind and solar, sheep graze between the rows of vines. Appears to be working on a biodegradable plastic wine bottle at present time.

WTN: 2011 Yealands Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough NZ.

$18 Cdn, color is a deep straw verging on yellow. Typical nose of gooseberry, passionfruit, hint of green pepper/herby. Full palate..passionfruit, great acidity, crisp and refreshing. Very nice citrus tones on the finish, very good fruit balance. Seems to have some higher-end SB out there somwhere. Good price for us here in AB, most run around $22 or so.

Sounds good, Bob.

Speaking of NZ SB's, the other day we opened a 2011 Kirkland Sauvignon Blanc that I picked up at Costco. We've been favoring SB's of late and I wondered what in the world $8 or was it $9 would buy me. I was quite impressed. Very easily identifiable as NZ in style with the whole citrus basket in there but predominantly lime and grapefruit, I'd say, good acidity and a lot more body than one expects at that price point. Overall quite balanced and delicious. Unfortunately a month or so has passed since I bought that bottle so if I went back to restock--chances are good that the next bottle I bought would not be identical. Parking lot test kit time?

Actually the last 2 vintages of the Kirkland SB has been made by a producer called Ti Point. They are up north but do source Sauv Blanc from Marlborough. I also saw that in New Zealand they are sold by Sacred Hill. I am not sure what the relationship is there. But I certainly like it for the money.

I've been complaining that SB rarely inspires me. So tonight I pulled out this bottle from a producer who has often been an exception to that "rule" and was once again deeply satisfied.

Les Monts Damnés – Vin de table – 1998 – François Cotat, Chavignol - Alc.12.5%.
This is a Sancerre which was refused the appellation because of excessive RS. 14 years later, that seems absurd. The RS is now scarcely perceptible except as unusually rich support for the palate; otherwise the wine shows the usual Cotat density of crisp fruit and fine flinty minerals, great complexity and length combined with refined aromatics, lively mouth-watering acidity, elegance and focus. The slight tartness on the finish about which I complained in 2008 has morphed into a welcome invigorating freshness. This is in a completely different class from any of the other SBs I've tried recently and gives the lie to the claim that all SB needs to be drunk young; the only criticism (if it is one) is that I would have trouble identifying it as coming from SB; 17/20++.

Can anyone here give me a run-down on the aromatic and taste profile differences between SB and Verdejo? The reason why I ask is that, if I had been blind, I would have guessed SB, probably New World, for last night's Rueda which went very well with moules marinières. Here is a TN -

Rueda 2011 – Marques de Riscal – (c.€7,50) made from Verdejo (at least 85% imposed by the Denominacion rules with SB and/or Macabeu allowed up to 15%). A decently crisp and refreshing very dry white with marked aromatics, citrus notes, tangy acidity, some minerals and a slightly ointment like after taste. Slightly less tangy though and rounder than my memory of 2010; 14.5/20++.

Good question Tim. I like Verdejo too and refer to it as a dead-riger for SB! I will pick up a new arrival downtown this afternoon and report back. Wonder if they blend there and just call the wine Verdejo!!!!

edit.I googled and found this, seems quite a few blends out there.

La Parra Loca - 2008 Sauvignon Blanc/Verdejo Blend - ~$7
This is the white version of La Parra Loca, a counterpart to the tasty Tempranillo/Shiraz red blend. The grape mix of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Verdejo makes for a real winner for the price and an excellent pairing with light summer food.

The Verdejo gives a lush roundness to the pear-and-apple opening and the acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc kicks in deliciously on the crisp finish. Another impressive showing from a Spanish Vino de la Tierra!


So by deduction, Verdejo might have the lushness SB might lack? I have to ask if SB might have more acidity and crispness? Heck I am missing all the golf...bye!

OK, Jose-Luis Gimenez just replied Tim after I sent him an email!

Hi Bob,
obviously... they're different kind of vines but you know it.

There's a hard discussion about this in Rueda, as far as during many, many years there're who merged both kind of grapes and labeled as verdejo. Currently it doesn't happen (or shouldn't).

SB appears overhere with strong tropical aromas it's a very aromatic varietal. Verdejo goes to green hints, no tropical at all. With grass, meadows a nice touch of bitterness.

Hmmm... I don't know if it's what you're asking. Let me know if not.

To me the epithome of verdejo is Blanco Nieve Pie Franco. Drink it if you have the chance. I think that nobody can think it's by no means a SB.

Even if we get a SB from France (I'm thinking in Sancerre). Those SB are quite sharp, like a knife. Very different from those fat wines you can find in Spain. Those wines are salty, nervous, vibrant, with great acidity and no trace of tropical hints as well.

Kind regards,

Jose

That's what I wanted, Bob. Jose-Luiz can give the comparison between SB and Verdejo in the Spanish context and I don't have that experience. However, I would say that a Rueda like this one from Riscal is not a million miles away from cool climate French SB in aroma and flavour.

2011 Gerard & Pierre Morin Sancerre Vielles Vignes (white or blanc). A Peter Weygandt Selection. 13% abv. Pale with transparency. Tart citrus notes along with stony, chalky minerality and some salinity. With aeration it melds into an inviting sipper. I liked it at room temperature as well as chilled. Suitable match for clams or mussels or spinach, asparagus, or salad with vinaigrette. The shop was out of the Reverdy Sancerre or I would have purchased that.

Can anyone here give me a run-down on the aromatic and taste profile differences between SB and Verdejo? The reason why I ask is that, if I had been blind, I would have guessed SB, probably New World, for last night's Rueda which went very well with moules marinières. Here is a TN -

Rueda 2011 – Marques de Riscal – (c.€7,50) made from Verdejo (at least 85% imposed by the Denominacion rules with SB and/or Macabeu allowed up to 15%). A decently crisp and refreshing very dry white with marked aromatics, citrus notes, tangy acidity, some minerals and a slightly ointment like after taste. Slightly less tangy though and rounder than my memory of 2010; 14.5/20++.

So thought I would give this Verdejo a shot to end up the month and of course compare with Tim`s note above. Think a fine discussion about Verdejo and Sauv Blanc.

WTN: 2010 Verdejo Rueda Tardencuba.

Small estate around Vendialbo, rocky soil, concrete tanks. 13% alc, $18, good natural cork. An estate to keep an eye on I think?

Color. Pale light lemon, no green.
Nose. Pear with strong mineral element. Melon, gooseberry, quite aromatic but no real resemblance to SB.
Palate. Entry is dryish, lively, bright, crisp, oily. Pink grapefruit, limey, mineral.."just a hint of ripeness on mid-palate" from across the table. Melon, peach, solid, served quite chilled, does not lack acidity. Nice verdejo here, try to find if you can. Reminds me somewhat of the Protos, I posted on last year.

WTN: 2010 Verdejo Rueda Tardencuba.

Small estate around Vendialbo, rocky soil, concrete tanks. 13% alc, $18, good natural cork. An estate to keep an eye on I think?

Color. Pale light lemon, no green.
Nose. Pear with strong mineral element. Melon, gooseberry, quite aromatic but no real resemblance to SB.
Palate. Entry is dryish, lively, bright, crisp, oily. Pink grapefruit, limey, mineral.."just a hint of ripeness on mid-palate" from across the table. Melon, peach, solid, served quite chilled, does not lack acidity. Nice verdejo here, try to find if you can. Reminds me somewhat of the Protos, I posted on last year.

That sounds a good one, Bob, with more character and complexity than my Riscal. Gooseberry and grapefruit sometimes crop up in my TNs on SB but not pear and oil. However, the SBs I drink are usually from cool climates like central France and Kiwi-land, so I'm not so familiar with the flavours it takes on in warmer climates.

WTN: `11 Martinsancho Verdejo Bodegas Angel Rodrigues, Rueda.

Good natural cork, 13.5% alc, $20.

Color is a light straw, no green.
Very aromatic nose here, nectarine, floral, herbal. Not as aggressive as a NZ SB. "Limey" from across the table and mention of minerals.
Palate entry is dry, long finish, sharp and crisp. Has the typical oily texture, nice salinity here. More pink grapefruit and hint of peach. No real change overnight, the acidity softened somewhat.
Excellent wine, think I will push verdejo as an alternative when folks are looking at NZ selection, grin wink.