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Ryan M

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WTN: A 1952 Chambolle, and other Thanksgiving highlights

by Ryan M » Sat Dec 08, 2012 1:10 pm

The 1952 Chambolle-Musigny came from the cellar of a dear friend, and compliments of him this is actually the second time I have tasted it. It is quite the noteworthy experience to drink a 60 year old red, I must say. And Thanksgiving break brought a few other particularly nice reds as well.

Domaine Laleure Piot, Chorey-les-Beaune 2008
Opened for slow breathing about an hour before drinking. Cherry, accentuated blueberry, gamy notes, cloves, and glycerin. Very fine, delicate, but light, as if it's holding back. I suspect it will grow and gain depth with age, and I suggest checking back on it in 5 years or so. This could turn out to be something special. 3 Stars [11/21/12]

Chateau Sylvain Raymond, Graves 2009
Initially rich but inexpressive and indistinct. It opens to reveal some nice Graves typicite of gravel and tabacco leaf, with rich blackberry balanced by tart red fruit, and cedar notes. Rich but so well balanced. At least 10 years ahead of it. 3.5 Stars [11/22/12]

Les Fils de Marcel Quancard, Chambolle-Musigny 1952
It's a rare treat to taste a wine like this, and an even rarer treat to taste it for second time, 6 years later. The cork was rather worrisome, soaked through and crumbly, but it all turned out very well indeed. Light garnet, going to yellow and then clear at the rim, with significant browning. Somewhat flat at first, but with good body. Blossoms with air. Quite a deep, lovely nose, with red fruit and touches of black fruit, lots of clove, smoked meat, spice, and glycerin. Identical on the palate, with sweet red cherry, blackberry, leather/smoked meat, loads of clove and glycerin. Excellent body, medium-full, with juicy, lively fruit. An exceptional Burgundy regardless of age. 6 years ago I wrote that this wine was in "graceful decline," but I feel this bottle is substantially better. I can't imagine that this wine will hold for much longer at this level, but at this moment in time, it is lovely example of mature strength. Quite a special experience. 3.5 Stars [11/23/12]

Maestria de Main de Maitre, Vendage a la Main, Madiran 2009
Opaque red. Rich black fruit supported by some tart red fruit, with hints of roses, lots of leather, a hint of chocolate, and chalky tannins. So rich for Madiran. Huge body, rustically elegant. One senses that loads of tannin is masked by the richness. This possesses a high end balance between richness and structure, and should age well for another 10 - 15 years. 3 Stars [11/23/12]
"The sun, with all those planets revolving about it and dependent on it, can still ripen a bunch of grapes as if it had nothing else to do"
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(avatar: me next to the WIYN 3.5 meter telescope at Kitt Peak National Observatory)

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