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Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:07 pm


Helsinki, Finland

WTN: A new (to me) Slovenian "naturalist": Klabjan

by Otto » Sat Dec 15, 2012 8:29 pm

2008 Klabjan Refošk White Label - Slovenia, Primorska, Slovenska Istra
13% abv. The white label is the unoaked line from Klabjan. This is a really enjoyable Refošk: lactic, vegetal and ferrous dark fruit aromas; sour, pleasantly tart - and just as the scent is ferrous the taste is actually quite bloody. Long, fresh, savoury finish. Lovely wine but don't serve to people who prefer their meat anything else than rare!

2003 Klabjan Refošk Black Label - Slovenia, Primorska, Slovenska Istra
14,5% abv. The black label range of Klabjan is the oaked range, though I don't know how much or what type of oak is used. But it smells like rubber and vanilla and toffee and all sorts of things I don't like. The palate also has an annoying oaky sheen to it; but the aftertaste is really wonderful and exactly what I hope to find in Refošk: lactic, sour, refreshing, invigorating. A shame about all the rest of the wine. I'll stick to the white label unoaked version from now on.

2006 Klabjan Malvazia Black Label - Slovenia, Primorska, Slovenska Istra
14,5% abv. From 50-100yo vines; 20 day skin maceration; aged on lees for 30 months in used Barriques. Unlike the oak aged Refošk, this Malvasia is really lovely. A deep gold, but not full-on orange colour despite the 20 day skin contact. The nose is just amazingly complex and wonderfully sniffable: honey, flowers, oolong tea and - odd though this may sound, it is awesome - beer of some well hopped Belgian Blonde type! Rich, malty (no surprise there considering the beery nose!) taste with wonderful acidity balancing the sweet fruit. The high alcohol is not noticeable. Lovely.
I don't drink wine because of religious reasons ... only for other reasons.

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