I opened three bottles this weekend (over two nights). The first, a white Burgundy, which was showing a little seepage around the cork, proved a winner. The other two…well, it’s one of those Burgundy things, I guess. Both were red: a 2004 JF Mugnier Chambolle Musigny (village), the other a 2009 Barthod Borgogne (Les Bons Baton). The Mugnier, to which I had very much been looking forward, when opened, was way bretty. I don’t mind a little, and I was hoping it would blow off at least some: I decanted, but it remained intolerable and never came around. I was surprised, since, though I haved not drunk much Mugnier, I thought of him as the sort of exacting winemaker able to avoid this problem. In addition, oddly? (I leave it to those more in the know to say), the cork from the bottle did not have Mugnier's name on it, but instead read “Chateau de Chambolle Musigny” and had a picture of said chateau.
The second, the Barthod, though young, I opened because it was a 2009 (and also, of course, a mere Borgogne). It had this sort of new new vines, young wines flavor (that I associate with some grenache), so that I just could not enjoy it. Nor did this dissipate upon decanting.
The Barthod had a nice core of pinot fruit “behind” the new vines taste, and the Mugnier would clearly have been a lovely wine (whatever its ultimate provenance) “beneath” the brett. Tasting the aged clear fruit of the latter, ironically, made it even harder to enjoy the former.
Here is the TN for the white burg.
JM Boillot Puligney-Montrachet, 1er Cru, Champs-Canet 13%
Beautiful, golden color in the glass. Powerful seductive nose of citrus and honey. Tastes almost of grapefruit and honeysuckle, and, as it breathes and the oak ceases to lead, intense almost petrol/bacon/smoke flavor accompanies the very long finish. Not as nimble as some Puligny I have drunk, and not much minerality (which I associate more with Mersault) but for this style, very concentrated, very solid, very strong, while still being balanced and not over the top.