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One out of three

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Joshua Kates

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One out of three

by Joshua Kates » Sun Jan 20, 2013 10:37 pm

I opened three bottles this weekend (over two nights). The first, a white Burgundy, which was showing a little seepage around the cork, proved a winner. The other two…well, it’s one of those Burgundy things, I guess. Both were red: a 2004 JF Mugnier Chambolle Musigny (village), the other a 2009 Barthod Borgogne (Les Bons Baton). The Mugnier, to which I had very much been looking forward, when opened, was way bretty. I don’t mind a little, and I was hoping it would blow off at least some: I decanted, but it remained intolerable and never came around. I was surprised, since, though I haved not drunk much Mugnier, I thought of him as the sort of exacting winemaker able to avoid this problem. In addition, oddly? (I leave it to those more in the know to say), the cork from the bottle did not have Mugnier's name on it, but instead read “Chateau de Chambolle Musigny” and had a picture of said chateau.

The second, the Barthod, though young, I opened because it was a 2009 (and also, of course, a mere Borgogne). It had this sort of new new vines, young wines flavor (that I associate with some grenache), so that I just could not enjoy it. Nor did this dissipate upon decanting.

The Barthod had a nice core of pinot fruit “behind” the new vines taste, and the Mugnier would clearly have been a lovely wine (whatever its ultimate provenance) “beneath” the brett. Tasting the aged clear fruit of the latter, ironically, made it even harder to enjoy the former.

Here is the TN for the white burg.

JM Boillot Puligney-Montrachet, 1er Cru, Champs-Canet 13%

Beautiful, golden color in the glass. Powerful seductive nose of citrus and honey. Tastes almost of grapefruit and honeysuckle, and, as it breathes and the oak ceases to lead, intense almost petrol/bacon/smoke flavor accompanies the very long finish. Not as nimble as some Puligny I have drunk, and not much minerality (which I associate more with Mersault) but for this style, very concentrated, very solid, very strong, while still being balanced and not over the top.
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Mark S

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Re: One out of three

by Mark S » Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:03 am

Joshua Kates wrote:... a 2004 JF Mugnier Chambolle Musigny (village)...The Mugnier, to which I had very much been looking forward, when opened, was way bretty. I don’t mind a little, and I was hoping it would blow off at least some: I decanted, but it remained intolerable and never came around....


Was it really brett, or the terrible 'green meanies' that afflicted many (if not most) of 2004 red Burgundies? I have had his Clos de la Marechale from that year a few times already and feel the green issue (which shows strongly in this wine) could be mistaken for brett.
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Joshua Kates

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Re: One out of three

by Joshua Kates » Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:17 am

No, Mark,

It was definitely Brett; but thanks for asking. Very strong barnyard smell and taste, with something like rest, but nothing green. Much the same, for example,as a Lafarge Volnay I had years ago.
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Dale Williams

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Re: One out of three

by Dale Williams » Mon Jan 21, 2013 12:26 am

too bad, I love Mugnier, and have never had a bretty bottle. but things happen.
I think I have a lone bottle of the 04 CM, will try to locate and give it a shot.
For the record, Frederic Mugnier lives in the Chateau de Chambolle Musigny, and that is official name of the estate.
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Fredrik L

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Re: One out of three

by Fredrik L » Mon Jan 21, 2013 5:55 am

Joshua Kates wrote: In addition, oddly? (I leave it to those more in the know to say), the cork from the bottle did not have Mugnier's name on it, but instead read “Chateau de Chambolle Musigny” and had a picture of said chateau.



Nothing strange with that: the Mugniers live in the Chateau and are very proud of it.

Greetings from Sweden / Fredrik L

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