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WTN: Notes

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Florida Jim

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WTN: Notes

by Florida Jim » Mon Apr 29, 2013 8:21 pm

1996 Laurel Glen, Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma Mountain:
12.5% alcohol; expansive nose with all sorts of red fruit and chocolate tones, accents of herb and earth, quite complex; extraordinary balance in the mouth and without edges, flavors echo the nose, richness without cloy, concentration without being extractive, complete and with great finesse, but again, balance is the lasting impression; long, delicious finish. A mature wine without being an old wine. Some secondary development, well resolved but does not lack grip and as pretty a cabernet based wine as I have had in years. A recent ’94 of this bottling showed more age and less fruit, albeit, still enjoyable. This bottle was at a whole different level.
At peak (or at least, one of them).

2007 and 2008 Edmunds St. John, Prophyry:
Both 13.0% alcohol and sourced from the Barsotti Ranch in El Dorado County; the 2008 is under screw-cap, the 2007 under Diam cork and the difference is noticeable with the ’08 being almost barrel sample-like and the ’07 smelling and tasting of chocolate-covered currants and seeming more developed; both are more black fruit than red and both are well balanced. Personally, I like the 2007’s complexity and nuance but these are two are very pretty gamays.

2006 Pepière, Muscadet Clos des Briords magnum:
12% alcohol; closed on day one; several days later this has become quite full and rich yet still bright, stony and with plenty of cut; it accompanies salmon cakes as though it were made for no other purpose and its length is astonishing. But based on day one performance, I will let even my 750’s sleep.

2005 Dom. Vissoux, Fleurie Poncié:
12.5% alcohol; . . . I am not sure how many cases of this I bought but this is my last bottle; obviously, I should have saved some but its my favorite wine and I just don’t care about what it will be tomorrow. ‘Had this on my 60th birthday, had it when my grandson was born and every bottle I have opened has brought me pleasure. No less so now; still flamboyant cassis and black fruit on the nose; rich, textured and deep in the mouth with lots of concentration, some development and a long, delicious finish. With grilled chicken, the bomb.
A fond farewell to a wine I will not forget.

2009 Edmunds St. John, Rocks and Gravel:
13.8% alcohol, 50% syrah, 42% grenache and 8% mourvèdre; on release this was really delightful but it is closed now and even a couple days on the counter did not help. This needs time . . . lots of it.

Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Notes

by Jenise » Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:21 pm

I recently picked up some second hand Laurel Glens from 86 and 87. Might be more fun than good, but I'd never count LG out. We drank our last 96 about six months ago--it was still just middle-aged.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Florida Jim

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Re: WTN: Notes

by Florida Jim » Tue Apr 30, 2013 4:44 pm

Jenise wrote:I recently picked up some second hand Laurel Glens from 86 and 87. Might be more fun than good, but I'd never count LG out. We drank our last 96 about six months ago--it was still just middle-aged.

Had the '86 maybe two years ago and it was grand - of course at this age, bottle variation looms.
Still have some 94, 95 and 96 left in the cellar - no rush.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
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Jenise

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Re: WTN: Notes

by Jenise » Tue Apr 30, 2013 5:41 pm

Florida Jim wrote:Had the '86 maybe two years ago and it was grand - of course at this age, bottle variation looms.

Best, Jim


Glad to hear that--of the two vintages, that was the one I was more worried about.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: WTN: Notes

by Florida Jim » Tue Apr 30, 2013 7:45 pm

Jenise wrote:
Florida Jim wrote:Had the '86 maybe two years ago and it was grand - of course at this age, bottle variation looms.

Best, Jim


Glad to hear that--of the two vintages, that was the one I was more worried about.

Sonoma Mountain doesn't go by vintage charts, in my experience. It seems to be its own climate. And of course, LG is not typical in any respect.
Just a thought . . .
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
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Dale Williams

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Re: WTN: Notes

by Dale Williams » Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:33 pm

thanks for notes, if you go into 05 Poncie withdrawal I think I have a couple left, will just cost you a trip to NYC for a jeebus.
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Re: WTN: Notes

by Florida Jim » Wed May 01, 2013 7:13 am

Dale Williams wrote:thanks for notes, if you go into 05 Poncie withdrawal I think I have a couple left, will just cost you a trip to NYC for a jeebus.

Tempting.
Very.
Best, Jim
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Re: WTN: Notes

by Clint Hall » Wed May 01, 2013 8:12 pm

We put on a Muscadet tasting at our house a few days ago, four Pepiere Briords and two other Muscadets. I was trying to make the point about Muscadets that Joe Dressner made at a tasting a number of years ago. The young ones are the best matches with raw oysters, middle aged Muscadets taste great with more complicated fish dishes, and the older Muscadets sing with even more complicated fish dishes. We proved his point. Our 2011 and 2010 PEPIERE CLOS DES BRIORDS were ideal with oysters on the half shell (the 2010 was the better wine). The middle aged 2007 and 2004 PEPIERE CLOS DES BRIORDS matched well with an oyster stew (the 2004 was the better of the two at this point in its life). Unfortunately a usually good 2004 BROCHARD-GUINDON GRANITE DE CLISSON, which I had hoped would show off the wonderful effects of long aging on lees, turned out badly corked, but by far the wine of the night was our 2002 BERNARD CHEREAU LE CLOS DU CHATEAU L'OISELINERE, which had spent considerable time on its lees and was perfect with my wife's Scallops with Escarole and White Beans. I've never had a finer Muscadet that that.

Now, in regard to the 2004 Muscadet you found asleep. I don't think I've ever tasted what I would call a Muscadet sleeper, although some have had periods when they didn't show quite as well as they once did and eventually would. But then, with one exception, I've never bought Muscadet magnums. That one is a 2005 PEPPIERE BRIORDS, so maybe I better keep my hands off it for another five years or so.
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Re: WTN: Notes

by Florida Jim » Wed May 01, 2013 8:21 pm

Clint Hall wrote:Now, in regard to the 2004 Muscadet you found asleep.

2006, actually.
Best, Jim
Jim Cowan
Cowan Cellars

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