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WTN: Two QPR Portuguese and an outstanding QPR Spaniard

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Tim York

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WTN: Two QPR Portuguese and an outstanding QPR Spaniard

by Tim York » Thu Jun 06, 2013 7:39 am

Our local Delhaize supermarket seems to be improving its line in Portuguese wines. As well as these two, I have noticed the Dão Encruzado from the prestigious Quinta dos Roques (Q. das Maias is in the same stable)on offer for around €10 whereas I recall it elsewhere a few years ago in the upper teens; I must give it a whirl though my memory is of a rather oaky and internationally styled Chard substitute. Here are two, which I bought, representing good QPR.

Dão Vinha do Rodeio (W) 2011 – Vinhos deDarei, Lda. – Alc.13% - (c.€4), made from Bical, Malvasia-Fina, Cerceal-Branco & Encruzado. Nose of pretty white fruit with dabs of ginger and medium/light palate with attractive spicy fruit and smooth acidity. Good 15/20 QPR!

Dão (R) 2009 - Quintas das Maias – Alc.13.5%- (c€9), made from Jaen (AKA Mencia), Tinta Amarela & Touriga Nacional. Am I imagining that the nose is not a million miles away from that of a Bierzo with a N.Rhône steely cherry hints plus a touch of liquorice? The palate was quite full with vigorous dark fruit and some minerals leading to a firm finish where the natural grape tannins seem augmented by oak induced notes of dry caramel. It needs another three years or so to integrate properly. Good now and potentially very good 16/20 QPR.

The leftovers from the first evening's consumption of the above white V. do Rodeio were insufficient for next day's fish and cheese, so when we wanted more wine I went to the Tio Pepe which was open in the fridge. It is easy to underrate such a widely available and reasonably priced brand and to take it for granted. However, this juxtaposition underlined the excellence of this dry sherry. It brimmed over with character, elegance and punch which, with hindsight, made the charm of the Dão seem very superficial.

Jerez Fino Muy Seco – Tio Pepe - Palomino Fino – Gonzalez Byass – Alc.15% - showed a bracingly invigorating bouquet of saline minerals and nuts and a crisply assertive medium weight palate adding depth, backbone and length to the intriguing aromas from the nose. An excellent pairing for the remainder of the fish and even better with the cheese, including a Cheshire blue. Insidiously moreish given its high alcohol. Excellent 17/20 QPR!!!
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Bob Parsons Alberta

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Re: WTN: Two QPR Portuguese and an outstanding QPR Spaniard

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Thu Jun 06, 2013 12:08 pm

Good to see you dabbling in Portugal Tim! The set up at Quinta das Maias looks very promising.

http://wineworthimporters.com/portugues ... das-maias/

Need to talk to folks at DeVines and see if they can bring some in.
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Tim York

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Re: WTN: Two QPR Portuguese and an outstanding QPR Spaniard

by Tim York » Thu Jun 06, 2013 1:13 pm

Bob Parsons Alberta wrote:Good to see you dabbling in Portugal Tim! The set up at Quinta das Maias looks very promising.

http://wineworthimporters.com/portugues ... das-maias/

Need to talk to folks at DeVines and see if they can bring some in.


I think that there is huge potential in the Dão region, Bob, but it's a pity that the producers seem to be too much in love with new oak for drinking young, IMO, but the best wines probably age gracefully. However, this is probably no more that at Bordeaux nowadays where most young cru classé and bourgeois clarets and whites are almost undrinkable in their youth because of the oak.

Reading through your link, I seems that I may have been right in seeing a similarity with Bierzo because Jaen (= Mencia) is 80% of the blend.

NWR thought: I wonder whether the fact that this well regarded producer is selling at Delhaize supermarket at low prices is not a reflection of collapsing domestic demand :( due to the economic crisis and IMO misconceived austerity policies imposed by the EU and IMF. I see that the IMF is making mea culpa noises about some of the Greek policies.
Tim York

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