Some tasting notes

Hello all,

I've finally decided to stop being lazy and post some of the many tasting notes from the tastings I've attended here over the last 6 or so months and during my recent trip to the US. I'll try to post 2-3 times a week.

TNs from the kosher wine fair late January 2013:

Lueria, Grand Vital 2010: This year, the flagship wine of this up and coming winery is a classic Bordeaux-blend made of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Merlot and was aged for 20 months in french oak barrels. Dark garnet towards purple and medium to full-bodied with on the nose and palate ripe blue and black fruit as well as sweet cedar and a hint of tar with good acid and nice tannins with some light herbaceous notes on the long finish. Nice but not as nice as the 2008 that I like so much.

Recanati, Shiraz 2012: I can't seem to remember precisely whether or not this one saw any type of oak but if it did it was for a very short amount of time, I should have written it but it is what it is . Clean, bright purple with on the nose boysenberries and plums with some spices. Light to medium in body with much of the same on the palate as well as notes of oregano and pepper, quite nice acid with very soft tannins on a short to medium finish.

Recanati, Reserve, Levanon Vineyard ("David" for export), Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: Dark ruby with purple reflections with on the nose notes of blueberries, cherries, smoke and saddle leather. Medium-bodied with on the palate ripe blue and black forest fruits, cherries and juicy red plums as well as notes of roasted meat and spicy oak with nice acid and tannins on the moderately long finish. A very nice wine and as opposed to the majority of my peers in the local industry I like it more than the Merlot in the same series.

Recanati, Reserve, Manara Vineyard, Merlot, 2010: Deep garnet with on the nose ripe raspberries, plums, cherries and vanilla followed on the medium to full-bodied palate by ripe blackberries, raspberries and cherries with notes of vanilla and chocolate as well as silky tannins on the long finish. Acid could be a bit higher and a bit more extraction would have been welcome but that's just me I guess...

Adir, A 2010: Dark garnet to purple in color with on the nose very ripe berries essentially black with some red berries as well, toasted wood, spices and coffee. Medium, perhaps medium to full-bodied, with on the palate very ripe (slightly overripe) black and red berries, dates, some green notes and somewhat salty minerals, mediterranean herbs and sweet cedar that linger with the mouth-coating tannins on the finish. A bit too sweet though an interesting combination of overripe fruit and salty somewhat dirty characteristics, IMHO not nearly as good as the 2009 which I loved.

Adir, Kerem Ben Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: Purple with on the nose very ripe black fruits, cherries and notes of dates and sweet wood. Full-bodied with somewhat sweet blackberries, raisins, roasted herbs and sweet wood with a touch of dark chocolate, heavy oak and big tannins on the long finish. Again, very new world and with more overripe fruit and dates than I can handle and I'm usually not the most sensitive type with regards to sweet notes of dates or raisins.

Enough for today...

Best,

GG

Bsd. Thanks G.well written. The 2 on the list I tasted; recanati shiraz and you're analasis is on the money. H

There are two versions of the 2012 Shiraz - one mevushal and one non-mevushal. I tasted both side by side with Gil at the winery a couple weeks ago and there is a [small but] discernible difference between the two (the fruit on the mevushal version are slightly more muted and the oak is more pronounced with slightly different fruit and herbal nuances). While the mevushal version is certainly a decent quaffer its shelf life is very limited and I would drink within the next 9 months or so.

Along with Recanati, many more wineries are creating mevushal versions for the US market at the request (demand) of thier importers/distributors. This list includes, among others, Psagot (Edom and one other which I don't recall [need to check my notes] but believe either the Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz) and Karmei Yosef/Bravdo as well (which will be selling a "Quadro" mevushal wine in the US which is effectively the Coupage with some Merlot added to the blend (35% Cabernet Franc, 25% Shiraz, 20% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon). In all cases, the wines are being pasteurized before bottling so I don't expect any positive ability for long-term aging. Even a number of very small boutiques are toying with the mevushal idea thinking it a surefire moneymaker. Given the difficulties some of the existing distributors have encountered in in selling some of the current crop of mevushal wines, the economical sense in this move remains to be seen (especially when countered with the potential brand degradation).

I tasted the Quadro side by side with the Coupage (but they aren't exactly the same wine as with the Recanati (for which there is also a mevushal and non-mevushal version of the Yasmin Red) but have not yet tasted any of the Psagot mevushal wines - anyone else taste these?

Answering Yossi"s question but indirectly, i had tasted the yasmin 2012 and thought it in a different class than previous ones.But only had it once so far.h

Adir is also creating mevu bottles as is Binyamina and the rest of the Royal can - I had the two Shiraz wines - both mevu and non-mevu here in the states and in Israel respectively, the one in the US that is Mevu is horrible and tastes like raisin juice. The one in Israel was nice.

David

IMHO the Bravdo Coupage cannot get any worse; adding something to it (even merlot) could only be an improvement.

IMHO the Bravdo Coupage cannot get any worse; adding something to it (even merlot) could only be an improvement.

Why do you hate the Coupage so much? Everyone I've had it with has loved it!

Hello, shavua tov!

This Friday morning I've attended the release of 3 new wines at the Ella Valley winery in the good company of StaceyB and her husband Dore.

It was nice to meet and chat with the winery's (relatively new) Australia-trained winemaker Lin Gold and discuss the wines and the direction she's taking now compared with her predecessor Doron Rav Hon (who's responsible almost only for the 3rd wine of this tasting).

Following are my notes:

Ella Valley, Sauvignon Blanc 2012: The second SB made entirely by Lin, this is a very well-made and refreshing wine perfect for the israeli hot and long summer. Made of 90% Sauvignon and 10% Semillon (the later was aged for a few months in old barrels) and pale straw in color with on the nose loads of freshly squeezed lemon, grapefruit, mineral and cut grass. Light in body with most of the same on the palate along with hints of gooseberries, stoney minerals and flint, herbs and bright acidity, the finish is short to medium in length. While I really like it a lot, for the price I would expect something a bit more complexi and exciting as there are a number of very good to excellent 2012 Sauvignons from Israel that sell for 20-30 shekel less and that are as good or better than the EV.

Ella Valley, Cabernet Franc 2010: The first varietal red wine for which Lin is responsible as Doron supervised the harvest and started the fermentation but supervision of barrel ageing and all final blends were fully under Lin's hands. A blend of 96% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon that was aged 14 months in french oak barrels. As with all the CF ever released by the winery this one is varietally true with on the nose green bell pepper and fresh mediterranean herbs (rosemary, basil) along with slightly jammy black and red berries and some warm spices as well. Dark garnet with a light purple hue and medium to full-bodied with on the palate nice forest berries, bell pepper and warm spices as well as tobacco leaves and roasted coffee beans with impressive bright acid (especially given the very hot 2010 vintage) with spicy cedar and freshly ground pepper on the long finish. A beautiful, well-balanced Cabernet Franc that's much fuller in body than most its peers from other israeli wineries, definitely one of my favorites.

Ella Valley, Petite Sirah 2009: This one is entirely Doron's craft, only its release date is a decision that Lin was part of the making. PS is my favorite wine grape and I always hope for some blueberry goodness which this one doesn't have yet it is nonetheless a very good wine. Made of 100% Petite Sirah and aged for 16 months in french oak barrels. Dark purple with a concentrated nose of ripe black fruit, freshly ground pepper, cloves, roasted meat (animal) and some light flowery tones calling hibiscus to my mind. Full-bodied and deeply extracted with on the palate loads of blackberries as well as leather, nutmeg, cloves and bitter-spicy chocolate, good acid to keep all that lively and in balance with the mouth-coating tannins on the long finish. Yum.

Best,

GG

I hope we're talking about the 2010 Coupahge, which I had at the winery about 2 months ago. To quote my earliuer post about it"

2010 Coupage (3 grapes, primarily cabernet franc) - Vegetal, vegetal and more vegetal.

I hope we're talking about the 2010 Coupahge, which I had at the winery about 2 months ago. To quote my earliuer post about it"

2010 Coupage (3 grapes, primarily cabernet franc) - Vegetal, vegetal and more vegetal.

I suppose that's a matter of taste. I really like the green goodness.

Just had this one today:

Dalton, Fumé Blanc 2012: As every year this a Sauvignon Blanc that was fermented and aged for 4 months in (american I think) oak barrels. As opposed to previous vintages this year the oak influence is very subtle and one needs to pay extra attention to notice it. Pale straw towards light gold in color with on the nose classic cut grass, apples and citrus notes with hints of cigar box. Light to medium in body with on the palate bitter citrus peel, fresh lettuce, a bit of heat, asparagus, green apples and a hint of white stone fruit and a touch of stoney minerals in the background and with very nice acid that grabs your attention on a moderately long finish. Very nice, very refreshing and warmly recommended.

Best,

GG

Thanks for the effort Gabriel. Since your TNs are without scores, what wines do you consider as exceptional if any, e.g. 90pts and higher?

BTW, I completely agree with YoelA about Coupage.

Bravdo, Coupage 2010 - deep to half-transparent garnet. Black and green pepper are mixed with a muted aroma of black fruit. Very good acidity on the palate, but harsh tannins and lacking elegance. Slight note of alcoholic bitterness and heat appears on the nose and then on the palate. An inexpressive wine. Score: 86pts. Price paid: 120NIS. Very bad QPR IMHO.

It's not a bad wine if it was sold for 50NIS, but for this price I do expect much better. This one is mediocre.

Hi Alex, thanks.

Re: the Coupage 120 shekel is a very low price compared to most places. I've never seen the Coupage for less than 140 NIS in Israel but Gotham in NYC sells it for 25 or 26 USD .

If you're into scores then you can look up my TNs on cellartracker where I do add scores. For instance I rated the Dalton Fumé Blanc 2012 a 89, the aforementioned heat is mostly what has lowered a score that would have otherwise be 90-91. Why not higher? Would require more complexity and a better structure. The acidity, while very good, is mostly noticed from the mid-palate and on without fully shining thru. As well, the suggested serving temperature on the bottle is 11-12C, that's too high as one would miss many of the wine's characteristics that would then be shadowed by the alcohol and my advice is to serve it at 6-8C.

Best,

GG

I hope we're talking about the 2010 Coupahge, which I had at the winery about 2 months ago. To quote my earliuer post about it"

2010 Coupage (3 grapes, primarily cabernet franc) - Vegetal, vegetal and more vegetal.

Whoops! I got mixed up. I was thinking of the '09 Coupage, which I loved. I've never tried the '10 yet. Is it available in the US?

Notes from my last visit at Castel winery in February (with Shimon Weiss from Shirah Wine Co. and Dr Ilane Abitbol, professor of Enology and consulting winemaker):

Domaine du Castel, Chardonnay "C" 2011: Impacted by some reduction (nowhere near the what happened with the '09 though) but according to some recent reports most of it has luckily disappeared. Straw toward light gold in color with on the nose, once you get past the light scent of burnt rubber, notes of lemon curd, baked apples, toasted brioche and rich butter. Medium-bodied with much of the same on the palate with a good structure that should allow it to age well for a few years, good acid and a moderate finish.

Domaine du Castel, Chardonnay "C" 2009: Stav (now former) marketing manager as well as the Ben Zaken juniors Ilana, Ariel and Eitan insisted for us to (re)taste the aforementioned reductive '09 vintage. While it has evolved, the reduction is still there and heavily so and personally this is not a wine that I can consider as drinkable. Light gold in color with on the nose blue cheese, mold and toasted brioche and much of the same on the palate along bitter notes of parsil and cilantro, with very low acid and a long finish.

Domaine du Castel, Petit Castel 2011: A blend this year of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot that was aged 16 months in french oak barrels. Bright purple with on the nose slightly jammy cherries, cassis and cigar box. Medium-bodied with on the palate black and red forest fruit including raspberries, cassis and sweet red cherries with notes of bell pepper and tar with a solid acid and tannin structure on the moderately long finish. A good vintage for the Petit Castel.

Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin 2009: While I've enjoyed this wine a respectable amount of times I never say no when I'm offered a glass. This vintage is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 14% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc and 1% Malbec and aged 24 months in mostly new french oak barrels. So yes, all the 5 red Bordeaux varieties participate to the party this year! Dark bordeaux red towards purple with on the nose strong notes of ripe currants and forest berries along notes of roasted herbs, toasted wood, dark chocolate and loamy dirt. Full-bodied and well-extracted but not as powerful as the 2008 vintage with on the palate dark and sweet (but not overripe) forest berries along earthy notes including herbs and tea leaves as well a licorice, espresso, chocolate, a bit of leather, good acid and soft tannins make for a harmonious balance and a great mouthfeel with a long and plush finish. Excellent.

Domaine du Castel, Grand Vin 2010: I forgot to take note of the varieties and proportions in this year's blend however it is clear that the Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot are more dominant than in most previous years. Dark purple in color, the wine has a concentrated, almost liquorish nose of ripe black fruits with strong cassis and cherries and a bit of acetone, heat, as well as oak, green bell pepper and black pepper. Full-bodied with on the palate ripe blackberries, cassis and cherries, green pepper and toasted oak, heat again and bittersweet chocolate with mouth-coating and somewhat harsh tannins that have yet to integrate on the long finish. While this wine is obviously far from its peak and is nowhere as approachable as is now and was the '09 on release, my feeling is that this one is not on par with previous vintages. It remains a good wine but the least favorite of the Grand Vin for me so far. I'd suggest to revisit it regularly starting in late 2014.

Best,

GG

Hello all,

Adir, Kerem Ben Zimra, Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: Purple with on the nose very ripe black fruits, cherries and notes of dates and sweet wood. Full-bodied with somewhat sweet blackberries, raisins, roasted herbs and sweet wood with a touch of dark chocolate, heavy oak and big tannins on the long finish. Again, very new world and with more overripe fruit and dates than I can handle and I'm usually not the most sensitive type with regards to sweet notes of dates or raisins.

Enough for today...

Best,

GG

Just opened this one (Adir Cabernet Sauvignon 2010) tonight with dinner. Gabe, I agree with everything you say about it, but must add that it has a lot of tannins and IMHO, will age well with time, becoming less "in your face" with the overripe fruit tastes. I call it B&B for Bold and Beautiful, no relation to the American soap TV show which has been going on since 1987.

Just opened this one (Adir Cabernet Sauvignon 2010) tonight with dinner. Gabe, I agree with everything you say about it, but must add that it has a lot of tannins and IMHO, will age well with time, becoming less "in your face" with the overripe fruit tastes. I call it B&B for Bold and Beautiful, no relation to the American soap TV show which has been going on since 1987.

Dan, I would love to share your optimism but usually when overripe characteristics show thru descriptors such as "dates" or "raisin" in my dictionary it usually doesn't get better with bottle-ageing, quite on the contrary. Now, I certainly do hope you're right and will likely never turn down an opportunity to taste that wine again, whether in 6 months or in 6 years. However, I won't buy any at this point.

Best,

GG

I've just finished drinking a bottle I had high expectations for. Unfortunately, while good, this wine did not live up to these expectations.

I love the new labels on Dalton's Reserve series. I also love many Israeli wines from the 2012 vintage which seems to have been one of the best, and perhaps even THE best, something that only time will tell as only some whites and a few young, entry-level reds have been released so far from that harvest. Indeed, 2012 was an exceptional year in Israel weather-wise as it was very much european in character with a rather long, cold and rainy winter, followed by a nice spring and a relatively mild though long summer.
Many, if not most winemakers seem to agree and I've already had the luck to taste a fair number of very promising wines from the barrels in different wine regions (Castel in the Judean Hills, Gvaot in the Shomron and Lueria in the Upper Galilee).
My visit 2 weeks ago at Lueria Winery in Safsufa truly was eye-opening as the barrel tastings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz from different parcels were impressive by the quality and balance they were showing so I really hope Gidi Sayada, Lueria's young and talented winemaker, will not screw those up until they will find themselves blended, bottled and on their way to the shelves.

With all that having been said, tonight's wine was a bit not as good as I thought it would be, but it might very well be just my recent palate evolution for white and rosés wines with high acidity. Still, at 60 or so shekels a bottle it is a good value and a wine I recommend.

Dalton, Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc 2012: Very pale straw in color with a very nice classic SB nose of lime, wet grass, cat piss and a hint of pineapple in the background. Light to medium in body with on the palate bitter herbs, lemon zest, kiwi, stoney minerals (damn rocks!), a touch of fresh mint, more herbal notes and some grapefruit bitterness with some nice (though not bracing enough) acid on a moderate finish.

Best,

GG

I've just finished drinking a bottle I had high expectations for. Unfortunately, while good, this wine did not live up to these expectations.........

With all that having been said, tonight's wine was a bit not as good as I thought it would be, but it might very well be just my recent palate evolution for white and rosés wines with high acidity. Still, at 60 or so shekels a bottle it is a good value and a wine I recommend.

Dalton, Reserve, Sauvignon Blanc 2012: Very pale straw in color with a very nice classic SB nose of lime, wet grass, cat piss and a hint of pineapple in the background. Light to medium in body with on the palate bitter herbs, lemon zest, kiwi, stoney minerals (damn rocks!), a touch of fresh mint, more herbal notes and some grapefruit bitterness with some nice (though not bracing enough) acid on a moderate finish.

GG

Hey Gabe,

"Cat piss" is a descriptor that I have never hear used applied to a wine. How is cat piss different from dog piss? Or that from a human, for that matter? I wonder if we'll be seeing Cat Piss - Pineapple Nectar in the grocery store shelves in Israel soon?

Dan

Just opened this one (Adir Cabernet Sauvignon 2010) tonight with dinner. Gabe, I agree with everything you say about it, but must add that it has a lot of tannins and IMHO, will age well with time, becoming less "in your face" with the overripe fruit tastes. I call it B&B for Bold and Beautiful, no relation to the American soap TV show which has been going on since 1987.

Dan, I would love to share your optimism but usually when overripe characteristics show thru descriptors such as "dates" or "raisin" in my dictionary it usually doesn't get better with bottle-ageing, quite on the contrary. Now, I certainly do hope you're right and will likely never turn down an opportunity to taste that wine again, whether in 6 months or in 6 years. However, I won't buy any at this point.

Best,

GG

Thanks for your sharing these thoughts. My inexperience as a relative wine neophyte bows to your vast experience. I respect you and trust your opinion, but will try to find another bottle to put into my wine refrigerator that we can share together at some point in the future.

Dan

"Cat piss" is a descriptor that I have never hear used applied to a wine. How is cat piss different from dog piss? Or that from a human, for that matter? I wonder if we'll be seeing Cat Piss - Pineapple Nectar in the grocery store shelves in Israel soon?

Dan you're on a roll!

I understand your comments and I must admit that also made me laugh the first time I heard/read this but actually cat piss is a very common descriptor with regards to Sauvignon Blanc. Now why "cat" as opposed to dog or say "human" piss? Probably because cats (together with foxes I'd say) are more likely to be found in forests where grow wild berries as this descriptor is often associated with that, you know, the smell of animal pee commonly found around bushes while hiking in such places. There actually is a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc wine branded as "Cat's Pee on a Gooseberry Bush"!

Best,

GG

There actually is a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc wine branded as "Cat's Pee on a Gooseberry Bush"!

Best,

GG

And they actually buy it?

I mentioned to my wife who hails from the Berkshire Mountains of Western Massachusetts and is the granddaughter of farmers, with a definite love of things from nature and country. She reminded me that what you are probably talking about is the odor that male cats spray, perhaps to mark their territory and maybe even attract the female felines. I think that nearly everyone recognizes this as distinctive of cats, and perhaps you are referring to this. And she added that the skunks also spray a substance of distinctive odor that she actually finds pleasant.

Indeed Daniel you must have waaay too much time on your hands this week! Great to see you posting here and in the mineral post as well. As GG has stated Cat pee is a classic wine term that is used to denote a very strong saline/acidic aroma attached to gooseberry aromas. I have smelled gooseberry many time in wines without the harsh acrid cat pee smell, but to my recollection, not visa verse. Cat pee is not a fault but some find it hard to denote and dislike it for that factor.

Either way - it is what it is. Why it is cat versus dog versus human - I can clearly tell you that cat pee has no relationship in smell to human. Cat pee is more musky, while human is far more dirty and musty smelling - not a good thing. Dog pee is also not pleasant. Again, all of these descriptors are really just what wakes the imagination. It is not what everyone calls it - but hey it seems to be somewhat consistent across wine note takers.

David

A few wines tasted this week:

GHW, Hermon White 2012: Those who know me well know that I'm not a fan of the Hermon wines and that's an understatement but this year's release for the white Hermon is actually not so bad. An unoaked blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon, light straw and light to medium in body with on the nose and palate fresh notes of lemon, melon and papaya, a decent acidity and a short to medium finish make this a simple but refreshing quaffer.

GHW, Yarden, Pinot Noir 2009: Bright cherry red in color with on the nose notes of toasted oak jumping at you along scents of cherries and rose petals. Medium-bodied with on the palate again lots of toasted oak, sour cherries, cranberries and rose water with a touch of licorice and roasted herbs, decent acidity and soft tannins on a moderately long finish. As opposed to many of its previous vintages, this Yarden Pinot Noir is rather varietally true but lacking complexity and the oak is too prominent for my taste.

GHW, Gamla/Gilgal Syrah, 2010: Garnet towards peuple in color with on the nose blackberries, oak and a touch of burnt leather. Medium-bodied with on the palate dark fruit, cedar wood, candied violets, with roasted meat and herbs with soft tannins on a rather short finish. Lacking concentration and acidity, unidimensional, this is not at all an inspiring wine.

GMW, Avivim 2010: I never was a fan of this wine and this vintage didn't change my mind. A blend of 74% Viognier and 26% Chardonnay aged 9 months in french oak barrels on its lies. Light gold in color with on the nose toasted oak butteriness, peaches, baked apples and lemon peels. Medium to full-bodied and very buttery the palate with notes of baked apples, peaches, honeysuckle, caramelized pears, toasted oak and vanilla on a moderately long finish. Too much oak here, also lacking complexity and acidity.

GMW, Yiron 2010: Dark royal purple with on the nose cedar, blackberries, cherries and vanilla. Full-bodied with on the palate slightly overripe black fruits and plums, sweet cedar wood, herbs, vanilla with the tannins gently coating the mouth on a moderately long finish. A bit too sweet, not as complex as previous vintages, lacking a bit of acid and ready for drinking now.

Best,

GG