by Joshua Kates » Mon Aug 19, 2013 9:06 pm
A few to add to those:
Another highlight of Friday night, alongside Mike's amazingly generous contributions and Dave's own, was also from Chris Weber, I believe: 1990 Lynch-Bages. More backward than the '89 I got to taste last year (one of my favorite Bordeaux ever), this lacked the tobacco leaf and briar of the former but showed beautiful dark Pauillac fruit, with great balance. The finish lasted forever. (I believe Marwan's champagne, by the way, was an Alfred Gratien.) In addition, someone perhaps Bob, was pouring the '86 Gruaud-Larose: a delightful, chewy mouthful, still could go a ways, but fun now.
Saturday proved an embarrassment of riches. On the Wehlehner Sonnenuhr tasting, the standout for me was John Trombley's 05 JJ Prum Gold Kap Auslese; it was still young, but mindblowing in its intensity and its clarity (all honeyed sunlight). The '89 1989 JJ Prum Spatlese, brought by Mike Conner, I believe was also a treat (leading with pineapple and a little petrol), as was, one rank below, my 2001 Kerpen 2 star Auslese.
My favorites among the Pegau were the 1990 Reserve (dark fruit, sassparilla,lovely nose) and the 1995 Cuvee Laurence, which had some added exotic spiciness and red fruits...heading in a more Burgundian direction. I agree, by the way, the style tends to be uniform, but in the bigger years, to be honest, I find the Grenache sometimes overwhelming. I preferred, accordingly, for drinking right now, the somewhat lighter vintages: 04, brought by Sam Platt, and Julia B's 2008.
To round out this region, I did enjoy, in truth perhaps more than most of the Pegau,--I guess I am not finally a big CdP guy--the little Beaucastel vertical that got mounted. Rounder, better fruited (to me), more velvety, the 1990 was drinking marvelously, as was the '05, though perhaps still a little tannic. I believe I missed the 09. But I sipped some 2004 Vieux Telegraphe, which was totally ready to go. I enjoyed Dave's Cote Rotie also; the Cornas may have been mine (and Dilip's) contribution:Le Vignon Cornas 1998. Not the greatest winemaker of the region (Galet), it's in a very good place right now, with some of the iron and blood mixed in with deep black Syrah fruit that has mellowed well.
Though they came at the very end of the tasting I cannot fail to mention, also from Mike Conner, the 1989 and 1990 (I think) Clos Erasmus from Priorat. So much wine had gone down already, I could not really give these their due, but could tell they would be wines to linger over and that would show impressively on other occasions.
Moving to Italy, I found the 1990 Sassello Il Poggiolo memorable: velvety and still nicely fruited, it had developed deep mushroom secondary flavors. The 2001 Paolo Bea Sagrantino Montefalco was a complex, balanced mouthful of dark fruit, yet smooth...still young, but drinkable. I had brought the Paolo Scavino 2004 Barolo Carobric. I thought it a little too young (too much unresolved tannin) and perhaps a touch syrupy (?), but others seemed pleased with it (and I'm sure it opened up some after a while). By contrast, I loved the Sandrone 2003 Le Vigne, which I had also brought. From a warmer vintage, beautiful cherry fruit here, balanced by a trace of tannin and complex spices. (Most of this went down at our table over dinner--it stood up nicely to the smoked prime rib.) Finally, my desserts were both Italian and I think both from Julia B: the 2001 Vin Santo I Ruffin(i?) and the Maculan 2003 Torcolato. Both were lovely, the Vin Santo a touch more viscous, which is how I like them.
A great way to end another memorable wine weekend; my thanks to everyone!
Josh