WTN - More Recent Bottles

Some nice wines recently, featuring a well aged Savennieres that exceeded expectations. The 1999 Donjon was a wonderful expression of 'old school' CNP - listed at 13.5% and tasting like it too!

• 2011 Canonica a Cerreto Chianti Classico Riserva - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti, Chianti Classico DOCG (2018-10-28)
  This seemed to have a bit of brett, as the nose was quite funky, and those flavours echoed on the finish of this otherwise very interesting and tasty wine. Didn't take notes, but this particular bottle seemed a little off, although most people around the table really enjoyed it. I don't mind a little brett either, so I enjoyed it as well, and it went well with the lamb, but not rated.
• 2011 Tenuta Sette Ponti Crognolo Toscana IGT - Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT (2018-10-28)
  Had a brief taste of this last night. As usual, there was nothing wrong with this medium bodied wine, but nothing really stood out either. A blend of red and black fruits with a smooth texture. It's a consistent wine, but not an outstanding super Tuscan, IMO. (B+)
• 2008 Walla Walla Vintners Cabernet Sauvignon Sagemoor Vineyard - USA, Washington, Columbia Valley (2018-10-24)
  Hazy notes from last night. This was drinking well, with still a dark colour and a nice nose of blackfruits, cedar and a herbal note. These were echoed on the medium-full bodied, plush palate. The herbal note was not over the top, but certainly noticeable; it added rather than detracted I thought. This doesn't appear to be declining, but don't know if it is improving either - it's in a good spot now (A-)
• 2011 Scott Paul Cellars Pinot Noir La Paulée - USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley (2018-10-22)
  This certainly reflects the cool vintage, and its hallmark is elegance and grace rather than ripeness and power. This is drinking really well now, with a complex mix of cherry, raspberry, sandalwood and light spices on the pure, medium-bodied palate. (A-)
• 1999 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières Les Caillardieres - France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Savennières (2018-10-20)
  Hazy notes from my last bottle. You never know with aged Savenierres, but this was tasting very well at 19 years old. There is some oxidation, but it doesn't overshadow the rotten fruit, wet wool and mineral notes on the medium to full bodied, slightly viscous wine. A singular, fascinating expression of chenin blanc that could only be from the Loire. (A-)
• 2007 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett - Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer (2018-10-19)
  Similar notes to last bottle. Lovely intensity and balance with lots of apricot notes and more viscous texture than usually found in a kabinett. Nice now, but will last a long time. (A-)
• 1999 Le Vieux Donjon Châteauneuf-du-Pape - France, Rhône, Southern Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pape (2018-10-12)
  Less bricking than I would have expected for a 19 year old CNP. A lovely nose with lots of garrigue and red fruits. An expansive medium-full bodied palate, with plums, cherries, leather, more garrigue and still a healthy amount of smooth tannins on the finish. Is the fruit on the decline here? I think so, but it is in a great place now; it should probably be drank fairly soon. Lovely old school, aged CNP (listed at 13.5%!). (A-)

[Jenise]

Great notes, thanks. Donjon is one of my favorite CndP's, mostly thanks to Bill Spohn's generosity with his many aged bottles from the 90's. I feel very lucky to now have a few 06's left and showing beautifully. I should have bought this every year from the first time I tasted one of Bill's magical 98's.

Re the Scott Paul? I'm happy to see a great review on an '11. I too found some really magical stuff that year. Btw, do you subscribe to Garagiste? I haven't bought from them in years but I recently nabbed a case of the '15: for, get this, $13.92 per bottle. They sold the '16, which is probably better, a month or two later for the same price.

Wow, that's a great price. I think I remember reading that there is a new owner of Scott Paul wines, maybe that's part of the reason for the much lower prices? I don't read the Garagiste offers, as I just don't have a way to bring any wine back from the States...

I agree, Donjon is probably my favourite CDP too, although they also use Cambie now, but they've stayed relatively traditional and are one the only producers left in the area who don't make a 'luxury' bottling.

1999 Domaine du Closel-Château des Vaults Savennières Les Caillardieres
...it doesn't overshadow the rotten fruit...

I think I know what you mean, but just wanted to confirm that you are intending *rotten fruit* to be a positive descriptor?!

Either way, good of you to keep these around for aging.

Yes, rotten fruit is a good thing for me. It's a certain taste that is otherwise hard for me to describe, but I often find it, especially in older French white wines.

[Jenise]

Yes, rotten fruit is a good thing for me. It's a certain taste that is otherwise hard for me to describe, but I often find it, especially in older French white wines.

Ditto--especially Savvies.

Savennieres is the only region where some oxidation and rotten fruit gets you an A-.

Yes, rotten fruit is a good thing for me. It's a certain taste that is otherwise hard for me to describe, but I often find it, especially in older French white wines.

Interesting. It may be a case of us using descriptors differently.

Botrytis is certainly one aspect of rot that I can taste, and many of the Anjou wines are prone to botrytis. But not sure that applies to your Caillardières.

The other 'rotten' element is all the spoiled/sewage/mousey flavors that come, especially in natural wines. But I guess that's not what you are getting at either.

I guess I'll just have to go find a 99 Caillardières and figure it out for myself! (Easier said than done)

[Jenise]

To me it's the smell of stewing cabbage with a little stinky cheese rind thrown in. I like it now, but recall being at blind tasting where others had brought this style of wine (and thought well of it) where I just couldn't get past the nose. Strangely enough, I adore both stewed cabbage and stinky cheese rinds, I just couldn't accept it in my wine.