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Mark S


Wine guru




Thu Mar 23, 2006 5:28 pm



WTN: Attacking the larder

by Mark S » Thu May 04, 2006 11:44 am


Lopez de Heredia, Rioja, Viña Gravonia, 1994
As everyone knows, the blanco from the land of castanets. Youthful wine for a 12-year old, showing none of the adolescent angst one might find with, oh, 1996 white burgundies. This is lightly gold colored, with a nose of lemon-water, green tea, and slight flaxseed. Nice bright acidity with waxy lemon and snap pea on the finish. A-

Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Brunello di Montalcino, 1997
A medium-light red, opening up with balsamic and fir tree notes upon a bed of cherries. Soft and pillowy, with a soft structure that makes this appealing already. Ripe and round, a bit fleshy, but lacking a feeling of graceful ageabillity. A good wine that sound probably be drunk within the next few years. B+

Karyda, Naoussa, 2001
From Greece, with love. Color is a lightish red of almost faded rose petal. Sweet-sour aromatics with resin and mediterranean mountain herbs. Light resin and gum arabic, along with an aged perfume in the mouth, almost a bit much when sip revists sip, becoming more and more like the cheap perfume worn by a dolled-up woman. If the perfume were a little more subtle, I could see this taking on a role similar to ruche. B

Palari, Sicilia, Rosso del Soprano, 2002
A very clear soft garnet. Perfumy nose of summer flowers, salted preserved ancovies, and soft plum. This is one svelte wine wrapped in a corset of power, full of sweet strawberry, sour cherry compote, with a sweet-sour dimension to it, finishing with cinnamon and cardamom. Nice stuff, and an alternative to old-fashion Taurausi. B+/A-

i Clivi (Brazan), Collio Goriziano,bianco, 1999
Bright, light shiny gold. Lime & salt tang on the nose, while the mouth reveals lime yogurt washed by calcium and a squeeze of fresh lime. Fresh and full of tingly acids. Has a nice Spring weight to this. Only complaint here is the price: high, like many Collio's these days (close to $30). B+/A-

Tardieu-Laurent, Cornas, 'Coteaux', 1999
Plummy-red colored. Spiced plums and fruitcake aromas, there's a soft wash of sour cherry, clay, and gently bruised strawberries, short, spicy finish. Not much of a tannic structure here and I don't think the 2-lb bottle is going to help it through the aging curve. Doesn't have the savage qualities I look for in Cornas and tasted blind, this could come from the Midi. Well made but modern and without 'place'. B-B+
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David M. Bueker


Riesling Guru




Thu Mar 23, 2006 12:52 pm



Re: WTN: Attacking the larder

by David M. Bueker » Thu May 04, 2006 5:16 pm

Thanks for the notes. I was particularly interested to see the LdH note.
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