Domaine Hauvette, Saint-Rémy-en-Provence
Since buying a couple of excellent bottles or so about 10 years ago from the late lamented La Vigneronne in London, I have felt frustration by lack of access to the wines of this estate. Now was the chance to remedy the situation. Dominique Hauvette is quite taciturn (not very common in France) but what she says is to the point and one senses a sharp brain with a sharp tongue in case of need. The wines were excellent albeit quite fully priced.
Vin de Pays des Alpilles blanc 2008 (€30), made from Marsanne, Roussanne and Clairette, was a fine Mediterranean white with a fine subdued nose showing touches of honey and complex rich palate with white fruit, “gras” and smooth acidity; 16/20++.
Les Baux de Provence (“BP”) Rosé 2009 (€15), from Cinsault 60%, Syrah and Grenache, showed good structure for a pink and lively acidity but also notes of ripe orange peel and over-ripe soft red fruit which are not my thing. I think that this may be the contribution of Cinsault (see next wine); 15/20.
BP Améthyste 2007, from Cinsault 60%, Syrah 30% and Grenache 10%, showed similar notes of orange peel and soft red fruit to those of the pink allied to an unctuous richness, more body and structure, of course; not really my thing; 15/20.
BP Cornaline (€25), made from Grenache 50%, Syrah 30% and Cabernet Sauvignon 20%. We had a mini- vertical of these –
2006 showed full body, tangy dark fruit with tar notes and an undertow of Grenache sweetness allied to focus, power, firm tannic structure and good length; much more my thing; 16.5/20 with more potential probably.
2005 added leather notes and was even darker more structured; 16.5/20 needing more time for ++.
2004 was quite different showing more elegance with fresher fruit, which was red rather than dark, medium body and greater aromatic expression coupled with fully adequate density and structure; best for drinking now; 16.5/20+.
Château d’Esclans & Domaines Sacha Lichine, La Motte, Provence
I have read such a lot about these super-charged rosés that I couldn’t resist a stop at this table. All the wines below are appellation Côtes de Provence rosé.
Whispering Angel 2009 (€14), from five grape varieties vinified and raised in inox tanks, was pretty and moreish with lively acidity, soft feel on entry and mid-palate with grip at the finish; 15.5/20.
Esclans 2008 (€20), from Grenache and Rolle and raised partly in barriques, showed more generosity and structure; 15.5/20.
Les Clans 2008 (€50!!), also from Grenache and Rolle and raised 100% in barriques, showed exotic fruit (some pineapple) and a caressing feel with also vanilla notes from the wood; hardly 15/20 for me now but it may develop into something.
Garus 2008 (€80!!!), from old Grenache vines and raised 100% in barriques, showed more density and a lot of structure with again exotic fruit and wood aromas and tactile sensation; hardly 15/20 now with more confidence in + development.
I might just consider buying a bottle or two of Whispering Angel or Esclans for further experiment at home.