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Robin Garr

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December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Robin Garr » Sun Dec 01, 2019 9:55 am

What better way to end the year than with something special? Burgundy works for me, and I hope it does for you, too. The whole range of Burgundy is open to us this month: Bring your Romanée-Conti, if you've got it, or bring a Bourgogne Pinot Noir or Bourgogne Chardonnay if that's your style, as it probably is mine. Or bring any level of Burgundy - red or white - that suits your fancy. Come and talk about Burgundy, ask questions about Burgundy, it's all on the table as we round out 2019 in Wine Focus.

PS: Technically, Beaujolais is a Burgundy, too, although Philip the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, had something to say about that in 1395. I'll leave the eligibility of Beaujo for this wine focus up to the wisdom of the group. :twisted:
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Tim York

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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Tim York » Mon Dec 02, 2019 6:25 am

I was casting round for a pairing last night for veal liver with its traditional Belgian onions and apples. I have successfully paired it before with Rhône, Loire and right bank Bordeaux but, with this WF in mind, wondered about Burgundy and consulted the web. I found a recommendation not only for red Burgundy but, more precisely, for a young one from Santenay. So that's what I chose. This is a warning about the dubious value about such recommendations and about closed phases in young(ish) red Burgundy.

2014 Frères Muzard Santenay 1er Cru Les Cabottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru (12/1/2019)
What a difference from the bottle about 6 months ago! Light in colour and quite light in body but with little bouquet on the nose and aromatic expression on the palate but with plenty of acidity. The overall impression was quite lean and mean, if elegant. Admittedly a too sweet pairing of veal liver, onions and apple purée did not help (although recommended by a site called VinVignes??!). However I wrote something similar last time but found the wine delightful before and after; this time not. It's odd to have so much bottle variation in a wine so young and in so short a time but I could detect no flaws. Fair.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Rahsaan » Mon Dec 02, 2019 5:13 pm

Tim York wrote:2014 Frères Muzard Santenay 1er Cru Les Cabottes - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Santenay 1er Cru (12/1/2019)
What a difference from the bottle about 6 months ago! Light in colour and quite light in body but with little bouquet on the nose and aromatic expression on the palate but with plenty of acidity. The overall impression was quite lean and mean, if elegant. Admittedly a too sweet pairing of veal liver, onions and apple purée did not help (although recommended by a site called VinVignes??!). However I wrote something similar last time but found the wine delightful before and after; this time not. It's odd to have so much bottle variation in a wine so young and in so short a time but I could detect no flaws. Fair.
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Not corked? Absence of fruit would suggest that.

But of course bottle variation is also part of the infinite glory of wine, especially Burgundy. And a lot can happen in 6 months.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Jenise » Mon Dec 02, 2019 7:21 pm

Sounds like it needs a nap. Good pinots acting shy at 5-6 years old are often just sleep-deprived.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Tim York » Tue Dec 03, 2019 9:29 am

Jenise wrote:Sounds like it needs a nap. Good pinots acting shy at 5-6 years old are often just sleep-deprived.


24 hours later, a glass full (c.12cl) left at the bottom of the bottle overnight in the fridge proved much better with more expressive aromas of griotte cherry and fine minerals together with greater depth and length.
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David M. Bueker

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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by David M. Bueker » Tue Dec 03, 2019 9:47 am

I am trying to be hands off my 2014s, as the last couple have been grumpy.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Jenise » Tue Dec 03, 2019 4:22 pm

Will open a burg or two as soon as I'm over this cold. At the moment, I have no sense of smell.
My wine shopping and I have never had a problem. Just a perpetual race between the bankruptcy court and Hell.--Rogov
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by David M. Bueker » Tue Dec 03, 2019 4:26 pm

I'm just too damn cold! I want Zin and things like that right now.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by ben.hopper » Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:41 pm

My favorites are Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru 2009 – Domaine Tollot Beault and Monthélie 1er Cru Les Champs Fulliot 2012 – Domaine Guy Dubuet & Fils
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by David M. Bueker » Thu Dec 05, 2019 8:06 pm

Burgundy...but white!

2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros - France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis Grand Cru (12/5/2019)
God bless the DIAM cork that has kept this wine sound for several years. Seashell, citrus zest, and a squirt of lemon get carried on a wave of fresh acidity. It’s just yummy.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Bob Parsons Alberta » Sat Dec 07, 2019 8:54 am

Rep downtown was pouring the NV Albert Bichon Cremant de Bourgogne Brut Rose. Nice bouquet of flowers and cherry. Quite light in color but still attractive. Light bodied on the palate but still pleasing.
Acidity was good, think it sold quite well.
*** tonite the annual Best Bang for your Buck Tasting, with usual 60 participants.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by David M. Bueker » Sat Dec 07, 2019 4:51 pm

2013 Château de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru La Boudriotte Rouge - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru (12/7/2019)
Over three years since the last time I tried this, and it’s still effortlessly youthful, and fresh. 2013 was my first introduction to Maltroye, but I grabbed a couple more in 2014 and 2016. I will have a greater inclination to age them. This is lovely stuff, and not terribly expensive.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Andrew Burge » Sun Dec 08, 2019 3:22 am

Hello, I drop by every so often to see whats happening, and I happened to drink a white burg last night. A really good one too.

2012 Comte Lafon Clos de la Barre

Oh wow. Grapefruit, green pineapple, honeydew, creamy cashew, white flowers and gingery spice - perhaps a little viognier like in that way. Pulpy fruit tannin puckers the cheeks and lips a little, and a needle like lemon acid line still punctures the expanse of the finish. Complete and balanced and in an excellent place right now. Stunningly good wine.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Tim York » Sun Dec 08, 2019 7:55 am

Andrew Burge wrote:Hello, I drop by every so often to see whats happening, and I happened to drink a white burg last night. A really good one too.

2012 Comte Lafon Clos de la Barre

Oh wow. Grapefruit, green pineapple, honeydew, creamy cashew, white flowers and gingery spice - perhaps a little viognier like in that way. Pulpy fruit tannin puckers the cheeks and lips a little, and a needle like lemon acid line still punctures the expanse of the finish. Complete and balanced and in an excellent place right now. Stunningly good wine.


Presumably that's a Meursault white. Jadot produces a red Clos de la Barre under the appellation Volnay.

Here's a recent TN on a 1996 Pommard. Some people claim that most 96s are spoiled by excessive acidity. I didn't feel that here.

1996 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux - France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Pommard 1er Cru (11/17/2019)
My archives tell me that I have had in my cellar bottles of 93, 94, 96 & 97. I left broaching 93 & 96 till recently and am happy about my patience. This bottle of 96 is the best of the lot so far though a 93 a few months ago ran it close. Medium bodied and beautifully balanced with subtle pinot aromas overlaying some still present primary cherry tinged fruit, fine minerals, a little forest floor, mouth-watering but non-astringent acidity, silky texture and residual backbone. The whole was seamless and elegant yet quite intense. No signs of imminent decline so no hurry with my two remaining bottles. Excellent.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by David M. Bueker » Sun Dec 08, 2019 11:59 am

I think there has been talk of upgrading Epeneaux to Grand Cru.
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Re: December Wine Focus: Burgundy!

by Andrew Burge » Sun Dec 08, 2019 4:02 pm

Tim York wrote:
Andrew Burge wrote:Hello, I drop by every so often to see whats happening, and I happened to drink a white burg last night. A really good one too.

2012 Comte Lafon Clos de la Barre

Oh wow. Grapefruit, green pineapple, honeydew, creamy cashew, white flowers and gingery spice - perhaps a little viognier like in that way. Pulpy fruit tannin puckers the cheeks and lips a little, and a needle like lemon acid line still punctures the expanse of the finish. Complete and balanced and in an excellent place right now. Stunningly good wine.


Presumably that's a Meursault white. Jadot produces a red Clos de la Barre under the appellation Volnay.

Here's a recent TN on a 1996 Pommard. Some people claim that most 96s are spoiled by excessive acidity. I didn't feel that here.



It is. Village level monopole close the the village of Mersault, different vineyard to the Clos de la Barre that Jadot makes,

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